SLROC Forum

Hello

Thank you very much for all the advice. Just to comment on george. It is good to get a new chassis and an old one can be rusted from the inside. However as I might be modifing it over the years keeping it as original as possible is key here. I do think about may be exporting it to the netherlands at some point. All cars over 25 years are considered classics there and you won't pay road tax and have cheaper insurance. Having the original chassis is a big plus. The second reason I will keep the old one is money. I'm a Phd student at Stirling and for some reason they never pay you the money you should earn. If the cost are around 400 or less it means I can spend 800 on other stuff like new doors. Also would like to re engine it with a 4.2 from a RR LSE but still looking for a donor car (MOT failure). Lots of plans and only money holding me back ;-) Scott: thanks for the advice. I like the idea of getting good advice. I was working on the LR this weeknd and did find a small hole in my cross member so will need to replace that. I had a good bash with a big hammer on the rest of the chassis and did not find any more spost but will be good to get this checked be fore they galvanise it. Good thing about replacing it will be that I can see teh inside of the chassis. Luckely I live on a farm with big sheds so space to get it all done. Plus my landlord and grand sun both have series so they like the project. I will ask about the bulkhead as well then to see if they think it will twist duin the dip. Would be a shame as it is so hard to find them in good nik.

Matt

You could make up a jig to keep the bulkhead from warping.....

could you rent me a corner of a barn for my 2a?

Drew.

The only company I know that have sorted the problem of galvanising bulkheads is  Ashtree. I think they use a lower temperature process.

http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/Technical.html

Ross

that would work or a file of some sort

Cool ok. Was a bit unsure cos I didn't really know how thick the galv would be. cheers

Has anybody ever tried to galvanise its original chassis? I'm restoring my 110 and the chassis is in really good nick. As I will be stripping it down any way it looks like a good idea to galvanise it, but i don't have a clue how much that will cost? Does anybody have an idea how much it will cost and where to do it. Same story for the bulkhead but that should be far less expensive.

cheers

Matt

Hi Matt,

I took capping to clydeside galvanisers to get treated but they where honest and said the metal may distort. I know the chasis is a lot thicker. It is calculated by weight of metal, and amount of galv used. Sorry can't remember the price. Worth giving them a call tho. Hope this helps.

There is a thread on Landyzone about ashcrofts galvinised bulkheads. Its the only company i know that done them but now i wont bother in future. Some real bad feedback concerning the quality of the finished product. I know they use a bulkhead brace/vice to bend the bulkheads back into shape after the process but its all second hand bulkheads they use and at the prices they charge i would expect perfect quality and finish.

Just to follow up on the story,

Just got my bulkhead and chassis back from Scottish galvanisers All looking great. It was 430 in total which includes transport, shotblasting and galvanising of both parts.

Will try to post picture as well

Pics would be good as I would like to see the finnish on the bulkhead.
Drew.

For some reason it does not let me attach pictures and the add image doesn't really work either
Can send you thm by email or you can come and have a look

Where are you located.
Drew.

I use photobucket to store pics for the forum then just copy and insert the img code in your post - should work ?

Cheers,

G.

Fishdoctor,
 re the Netherlands & keeping the original chassis.

For the Tax exempt & over 25 yo, do you not also needs to keep the Original Cubic Capacity for the engine, also the same block/engine numbers?

Many customers from Scandanavian countries have their engines rebuilt for more Power/torque/reliability at RPI Engineering for this reason, many also getting LPG converted..
This way they get the Max or just more BHP possibly but staying with 3.5/3.9 's
www.v8engines.com

Possibly thats not the requirement for the Netherlands.
www.roverland.info/html/holland_the_most_expensive_pla.html
www.expatica.com/nl/leisure/travel_tourism/a-guide-to-car-use-in-the-netherlands-8855_9070.html
george