SLROC Forum

Got started today, doesnt seem as bad as i remember.

Still most of the mechanicals need a refresh.

Last spin pre mot fail ( 4 years ago! - although in my defence i have rewired , replumbed , fitted a new central heating system and stripped all the wallpaper out of a house in between)







Back of the battery box....previous owner had fixed this with alu plate and silicone.....




Bulkhead top corners are both like this, half assed repairs done without removing windscreen  ,both door posts are gone as well- holes were stuffed with newspaper and sponge/p38 when i got it   but the top rails largely in tact and looking good

going to make 1 then possibly sell the other ifor parts

Todays progress , had to get a hand with roof and tub as they are bloody aukward.

Currently im thinking i clean up a new rear x member a pair front outriggers and some por15 would go along way to another 10years.......its no where near as bad as most. Or as i thought.

After crawling all over the chassis today with a roofing hammer (point end) ive ordered up an mib standard rear xmember with extensions - these come back 16inches so almost to the second body mount ,  came much higher recomended than the paddocks stuff anyway, got them to send out a pair of outriggers for the bulkhead also as although the holes there are patchble i might as well fix it up good and propper.

If i didnt already mention , i have reciepts going back to purchase for this landy , im third owner , the second was a school friend that owned it for about 3 months before deciding landy ownership wasnt for him.

Today after uncovering some bodges i checkded out the pile , found a reciept from a garage near arbroath for "repair holes in battery box and repair seatbelt mount"

As far as i can see repair means silicone in some road sign and cover over whole area in roofing bitumen. To hide



You can see some of the tar left in the bottom. Have cut out all the rot here and will replace with good metal tomorrow and have a yrm galvy end panel to replace the end with - same as i have already done the otherside.





Bar a tiny hole on a triangulation piece on the body cross member thats the only hole i found barring the 2 outriggers which were why it came off the road 4 years ago as i didnt have time to sort em.

Making panels the old fashioned way









Quick coat of black to preserve it till i paint it pre assembly...might even grind those welds down...



More making panels







Quick tidy up of the windscreen shelf with the grinder and its time to fit the door piller and outer skin. - waiting on my mate bringing a tub of waxoyl he wants rid of to fill the bulkhead with it before i seal it up.

Once i get the bulkhead sorted ill dare to take it off.... Dont think id get it back on if i took it off as it stands now

this hasnt been forgotten about , progress has stalled while i await my chassis parts from MIBoffroad.

ordered just over a month ago , went into production a couple weeks ago....

hopefully the quality everyone promised me was worth the wait..... ive seen britpart crossmembers in the past and just CBA with the crapness of them.

After 2 months and lots of chasing my crossmember turned up !





Rotten.


New one fitted, quite happy with it,



Spent today ripping off all the rear suspension that looks to have been on there since new bar the rear shocks.

Tomorrow im expecting shiny shiny - although nothing can be fitted till after i  give it wire brush and 2 or 3 coats of tetrosyl, thts tomorrows job.

Got a big order of stuff coming from yrm for the tub , cab and bulkhead.

Got +11 pin x pin shocks and dropped forward pin  shock mounts , hook dislocation cones , full spring clamps and galvy spring seats. From gwyn lewis.

+2 bearmach springs and superpro polybushes from island 4x4

Need to look into cranked trailing arms - and possibly a wide angle prop.

Had a bit of an identity crisis buying bits for this this , it started life as i wanted to build a fairly original looking v8 winter road car, realisticlly its going to be used for winter driving and rtv trials so went with traction/articulation over road handling

Going to be a slow build anyway - work offshore so dont get to spend loads of time at once on it

Todays progress. Coat one of tetrosyl.

How ever the suspension did not arrive as planned, i only got springs and bushes , no shocks etc.

Ran into a slight issue , top of my diff pan is leaking. Is it worth running a bead of weld on the leak or should i just replace the whole diff pan? Anyone done the diff pan before ? Anything special i should note?

I have got a disk brake axel in the wings but it needs total refurb. I was planning to drop a locker of some kind in it at a later date while doing the refurb, so going to leave the drums on for now as i know the drive shafts and drive members + all seals were changed recently,

Back to the coal face at the office the morn

A while ago mine one of mine was porous, oil was just passing through the metal. Unless its the weld its coming out of I would say you need a new diff pan. The one I got was a heavy duty one, a little extra but well worth it for long term use. I don't recall any difficulties for the welder (I don't have the gear) apart from awkwardness. Remember to flush it out well aftewards.

Would it not be worth using the other axle, cost of a few seals may be less then a double dose of oil, diff pan and time

diff on the other one is suspect. as in it waggles aboot like a sausage in an alley - its a 24 spline + the needs the calipers refurbing(my drums should be in good shape they were renewed not longbefore it came off the road , might need new master cylinders and a quick grind nothing major)  , thats why i was thinking of doing it in down time and fitting a locking diff

my drum brake Axel is 10 spline

Theoretically could i whip the diff. half shalfs and drive members off my drum axle (or are they very widths ) to give one good axel.

Welding on a new pan is no great shakes for me but like you say  - is it worth that effort to stick on a new pan to change the axle later - being fair i would think the disco axle needs a new pan as well.

I can see where the leak is - its on the profile change on the top side - like a pin hole  - it only leaks when i stick the axel upside down(now unless im doing it wrong i dont do that often when driving )  - im tempted just to clean it up and chemical metal it for the mean time get my truck going again and get that disco rear axle refurbed quick smart afterwards.

Not sure what the garage repaired this with but it was like a coke can.







New outrigger on , everything lines up without any hammering my measuring tape works - since i didnt have much left to work with ! Got another door pillar coming tomorrow and a bit of fabrication to work on the top corner both inside and out - up to the first windscreen "spear"

Same job to do on the other side but not as much of the top corner to do as ive already done a bunch of work on that.

Thats tomorrows job , gotta love when you turn up at work on wednesday after being offshore for 9days and get asked why your there and to take the rest of the week off ! Bonus getting tanked on with this.

New bits have started to arrive



Gwyn lewis challenge kit and +5 shocks. All new polybushes and +2 springs here too.



Yrm tub repair pieces for all the corroded bits round seatbelt mounts.

Gotta go back before going forwards

Fair bit of fabricating to make panels , decided not even top corner patches would help here. Highly recomend yrm door post panel , far superior to the britpart one i had fitted in the past.much thicker gauge steel.




All stitched up. Needs a grind and - skim of p38 but much more solid than before.



Today i turned it into a single seater new outrigger ,support bracket and footwell required.


Photo taken while waiting on my buzzbox to cool down after tacking it in place doesnt like going at 90 amps for long.. Out of gas for the mig and mrs td had the van in falkirk today and i wasnt cycling to montrose with my hobbyweld cylinder for more.

Yrm sent me out the offside bulkhead foot not the near side i ordered so glad im out of gas or id have been gutted to have been held up by this oversight. Happy the chassis is done now though, will be doubly happy when the bulkheads done, then its time to pull it out and tidy up the welding + paint it

What do folks do for buying paint - id like to keep it blue and i have room to air spray it inside away frum blowing dust and dirt.

clarik in rosyth keeps hobby weld gas

Cheers piper but im in aberdeen , glenkindie or montroae are the closest suppliers for me

got all my bushes pressed out in work and acid dipped all the brackets /radius arms and aframe mounts/arms.

ready for painting.

also picked up an 11L 200tdi engine and all ancillaries for it - it was pricey but with all the correct parts - manifolds, steering pump/bracket , fuel filter carrier and air box,  new parts (boxed) that came with- (timing belt, waterpump , aux belts , gaskets and seals)  and all the parts id have to have bought or made to fit a disco engine it seemed to stack up well.

Cheers David if your on here , its gone to a good home - although my sack barrow folded under the strain of trying to move it into the garage