SLROC Forum

I am stuck trying to remove inner bearing track on the front axle.

I tried using a gear puller but the track had to little to grab onto.

Any idea how the heck you get it off?

You can either try heating it up and cooling really quickly as due to the fact it's hardened steel it will crack and then you can break it easier with a chisel. If there is nothing around it that will take and damage from heat then use and oxy set to burn the inner shell through. As long as you don't use the oxy set in cutting mode it is quite easy to cut through the shell using the heat without damaging the shaft underneath.

  Bob

Hmm only problem. No oxy.

I'm thinking Dremel. Just wish there was a different way.

Providin the hubs off the car in a vice or similar, perseverence hitting from behind with a narrow drift/cold chisel.  Once you get it moved 3-4mm you'll be able to get a larger drift in.

If there's not enough metal to get a start - you could try drilling two holes opposite each either, right on the very edge. 

Once you've drilled the holes behind the track you'll be able to use a round punch through the holes to hit the back of the track. 

Always remember the goggles  and be prepared for a wrecked chisel or two.

Duncan

if you have amig welder run a bead round it that will cause it to expand off

easy grind the old bearing with a simple angle grinder

I am stuck trying to remove inner bearing track on the front axle.

Do you mean the part on the stub axle that the seal goes around, or the inner bearing track inside the hub ?

If it's the first, a 240 volt, 9 inch grinder is the ideal tool  .

If the latter then a thin punch from the opposite side should work.  Might be worth checking that the land the bearing track sits against may have some machined 'notches' hidden behind a layer of grease.  The notches are ideal for giving the punch a better start on the track.

Try welding  a bolt or a bit of metal across inside of bearing then you can punch out from behind.

It's still on the axle with the brake plate in the way and being a royal pain in the ass.

I'm assuming you mean the inner bearing face that slides into the stub-axle..... the one that seems to weld itself to said stub-axle when the bearing collapses (not that I've ever been there, oh no - never had to rebuild the so&&ing thing at midnight, in the pi$$ing rain, at a rally on an island - no siree)

So, I'm assuming the hubs off, and all you have is the stub-axle with the bearing face practically welded in place.

Don't apply lots of heat: you'll melt the oil-seal on the inside of the stub-axle.

As mentioned above, use a cold-chisel to move the thing. The stub-axle has a shoulder on it that's about 5mm wide, so you're not trying to drive the chisel into the very corner!
It's really hard to get the thing to move... and you may need to try coming in from above, then left-side, then right-side, then above, then ....

If you have an appropriate splitting-chisel, you can try splitting the bearing-face, so it'll peel open and you can remove it that way.

You can do the angle-grinder trick.... but try not to score the stub-axle too much.

You can also take the stub-axle off, and do heat & stuff.... but remember you'll need to replace that inner oil-seal.

Once you've removes the bearing, you'll probably need a file to remove the burrs that have been created - if you don't, getting the new stuff on will be next-to impossible!

Tip #2
having got everything cleared off the stub-axle, make sure the replacement bearing will slide on: its a real pain in the proverbial to try and force the hub back on when the bearing carrier gets caught on a rough edge: won't go on, and now won't come off again either!!

A complete new stub-axle & bearings is fairly cheap, and saves LOADS of hassle ;-)

Never ended up having to replace them on my lightweight before selling it, but I had previously looked into this and drilling it before splitting it was another way:

http://ollr.createaforum.com/technical-archive/replacing-the-stub-axle-distance-piece-oil-seal-runneri/