SLROC Forum

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Right its fitted with M12 80mm 8.8 Bolts thanks for the forum answers but..... Is this set up strong enough for towing a Sankey with a 2012 Defender? I would be intersted to hear if others have had any cross member bent or damaged? I am not going to be doing any snatch recoverys just towing a small Sankey having said that I think I will get a type approved Slider and bolt that when/if there is any heavy towing or 50mm ball towing required.   

I am told by experts that you can't tow with this set up in a car however my one (110 Utility Wagon) is classed as commercial and is out side these rules at the moment but this will change. See stuff below.

Also whats the best solution to mount the normal 7 pin electrics with this set up?

European type approval 94/20/EC
 
In the U.K, with effect from 1st August 1998 all Passenger Carrying Vehicles up to 3500kgs Gross Vehicle Weight (M1 Vehicles) can only be fitted with European Type Approved towbars if the vehicle has received European Whole Vehicle Type Approval.

Non M1 vehicles, light commercial vehicles and private imports from outside the EEC do not need Approved Towbars; however, most car and some Light Commercial Vehicles such as vans commonly use the Type Approved Towbar.

Accessories
Most towbar manufacturers have allowed, in the towbar test and approval application, for the inclusion of various accessories, often by including a spacer in the towbar kit, which is removed when the accessory is fitted. This information should be clearly stated in the fitting instructions. If there is any doubt, you should contact the towbar manufacturer. This would apply to all accessories that move the towbar rearwards from the towbar.
 
Design, Testing and Certification
The towbar manufacturer requires the following vehicle data to design a towbar:
A.Manufacturer's specified fixing points.
B.Gross vehicle weight or mass (GVW or GVM)
C.Gross Trailer Weight or Mass (GTW or GTM) that the model of vehicle can tow.

This information is included in the Vehicle's Handbook. From this data the towbar manufacturer constructs a test load, called D Value, which will be used to test the towbar. As well as providing the test load, the towbar manufacturer is obliged to include a D value in kn on the towbar identification plate.

"D" Value
 The "D" value is calculated as follows:
 
(GVW x GTW ) / (GVW + GTW) x  9.81/1000 (gravity)= kn
 
Where GVW is Gross Vehicle Weight, and GTW Gross Trailer Weight.
 
The maximum D value for an M1 vehicle is 17.7kn that represents a GVW of 3500 kgs towing GTW of 3500kgs.
 
It is possible to design a towbar that fits the whole range of models of one particular vehicle. Because Towing Capacity is related to GVM then each model may have a different value for D. To prevent overload of the Towing Vehicle refer to the Vehicle Manufacturers' Handbook to confirm the GTW for your particular model.
 
Towing with Heavy Goods Vehicles:
The snatch loads imparted to the tow hitch by a commercial vehicle tend to be much higher than those of passenger cars, especially with a GVW up to 180000 kgs. These snatch loads will impart severe strain on the Trailers drawbar which may eventually damage the drawbar. It is therefore recommended that when towing with a Commercial Vehicle a shock absorbing towbar is fitted.

My discovery it rated to tow 3 tonnes, and my Sankey Trailer is a 3/4 [ton], so I'm well inside that.... I don't see your 110 being different.

I believe the towing weights for a Landrover Nato hitch is 7 tonnes, comapred to 22 tonnes for the Nato Hitch for the Beford Lorries etc

Its more the cross member I am worried about I have seen posts of people ripping the hook off and damaging the cross member in a td5 doing snatch recoverys not that I will be doing that.   

And the electrics.

I want this set up it looks neat https://picasaweb.google.com/113414066050877387300/April52012?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Found it in the US&A as Borat would say http://www.marinesparky.com.au/catalog/i90.html any one using this? Know where I can buy it in the UK? 

i was under the impresion the max you could tow with a landrover was 3.5 tons  excluding freelanders and evoques
the lighting socket is i think available from commercial vehicle supplies i am sure they used to be fitted to the artic trailors
does the army land rovers have stronger crossmembers
the army tow on british roads with the nato hitch  so it must conform

And the electrics.

I want this set up it looks neat https://picasaweb.google.com/113414066050877387300/April52012?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Found it in the US&A as Borat would say http://www.marinesparky.com.au/catalog/i90.html any one using this? Know where I can buy it in the UK? 

The .au bit says its an Australian site so that $24 is the south pacific peso rather than the yankee dollar... ;-)    As for tales of the hitch ripping out of the cross-member - I'd ask just how cowboy was the clown doing the recovery and just how rotten was their chassis. Normal towing of a Sankey, even fully loaded, is going to create nothing like the stresses when some eejit hits a KERR rope at 30mph and comes to an instant full stop with a 2.5 tonne LR stuck in the clag on the other end.  Be great if you can find that socket, it looks a lot nicer than the usual Halfrauds junk.   You OK with wiring the NATO plug into a 7 pin ? I have some notes/colour codes if needed. My Sankey came with a great little adapter that uses an Army socket at one end running to a 7 pin plug, so nothing needed cut and the Sankey still has its original plug.     

Looks like you'll also have to remove your spare wheel to get the trailer into the hitch each time you use it . Depending on which sankey trailer you have your jockey wheel may well get in the way of the spare too when lifted of the ground .

Looks like you'll also have to remove your spare wheel to get the trailer into the hitch each time you use it . Depending on which sankey trailer you have your jockey wheel may well get in the way of the spare too when lifted of the ground .

No the wheels Ok. To hitch I open door reverse then hook it on then fold the jockey away and to remove it open door then lower jockey wheel. All be it I have to have the car/trailer turning left to do this.   


https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/NQYASR2K9kQ3caP9OMTu19MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

i was under the impresion the max you could tow with a landrover was 3.5 tons  excluding freelanders and evoques
the lighting socket is i think available from commercial vehicle supplies i am sure they used to be fitted to the artic trailors
does the army land rovers have stronger crossmembers
the army tow on british roads with the nato hitch  so it must conform

I am told it does not conform but I think you can still use it with an older car? But is it not the case that all defenders were classed as commercials i.e. vans with seats in order to get around EU rules like Air Bags ABS etc? 














 

Quote from: R110KSS on April 05, 2012, 12:58:53 PM

And the electrics.

I want this set up it looks neat https://picasaweb.google.com/113414066050877387300/April52012?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Found it in the US&A as Borat would say http://www.marinesparky.com.au/catalog/i90.html any one using this? Know where I can buy it in the UK? 

The .au bit says its an Australian site so that $24 is the south pacific peso rather than the yankee dollar... ;-)    As for tales of the hitch ripping out of the cross-member - I'd ask just how cowboy was the clown doing the recovery and just how rotten was their chassis. Normal towing of a Sankey, even fully loaded, is going to create nothing like the stresses when some eejit hits a KERR rope at 30mph and comes to an instant full stop with a 2.5 tonne LR stuck in the clag on the other end.  Be great if you can find that socket, it looks a lot nicer than the usual Halfrauds junk.   You OK with wiring the NATO plug into a 7 pin ? I have some notes/colour codes if needed. My Sankey came with a great little adapter that uses an Army socket at one end running to a 7 pin plug, so nothing needed cut and the Sankey still has its original plug.     

The bloke who sold me it fitted the 7 pin before he shipped it. The Nato plug is now on ebay for £24.99! Doh!