SLROC Forum

This is something I was going to do years ago on a series 1 I was repairing (at the time cursing the huge rust holes all over the place) and I think I am going to do the same idea on my 88 now that it is (almost) repaired.

Everytime I work on the landy chassis (this is number 5) the rust seems to have started inside and worked it's way out through the bottom on the chassis rail, no doubt due to all the dirt that builds up inside. My current one even had a huge mouse nest in the mid rail and the back needed a new 1/2 chassis due to how bad it was. Yet often there is still black paint in there but the inner floor of the rail is always just rusty metal. The outside is rarely the problem as the front half is usually covered in old oil and grease and the rest is easy to see and jetwash.

To prevent any internal rust, my idea was to seal up all the factory holes and fit drain plugs to allow oil to be poured inside to coat everything and then the excess drained off. There are two large holes in the bottom near the rear spring hangers which 1" drain plug bosses could be welded and for filling I thought two at the rear cross member next to the tailgate hinges could be fitted. Obviously the two large holes for the wiring loom need plating over and any other small holes welded over (quite a few), my wiring loom runs under the floor rather than in the chassis leg. Outriggers could be fitted also with plugs if they did not have a passage between the main rail and the outrigger. I suppose a few gallons of old engine oil could be poured in and then a tad of offroad driving to fling the oil all over the inside, then just drain out the excess and repeat every year or so. I wouldn't leave it full of oil as in a crash you may end up with an oil slick and a lot of explaining to do.

Anyone tried this?

aye, waxoyl

waxoyl though I love the stuff and use it on the outside of the chassis and on all my cars is bad news for inside as it dries and lifts (totally out of sight) then simply gathers dirt and mud around the defect area. It also will not penetrate rust, only sit on the surface, where as oil will displace the water and soak in. One of the main issues with the Landy chassis is that they left holes all over the place for water and mud to get in, seal those up and most of the problems go away.

whats the best to fill all these holes, if you didnt want to weld them up?

cheers

PX28. it's a military grade rust preventative.
It's noy cheap at £20 a litre
It's got a defence standard.

Geoff

PX28. it's a military grade rust preventative.
It's noy cheap at £20 a litre
It's got a defence standard.

Geoff

is it a paint or ?

cheers

dave

http://www.lubricantsupplies.co.uk/applications/rust-preventatives/px28-x-20-litres.html  not cheap but the best normally ain't cheap but some how i'll stick to waxoyl

whats the best to fill all these holes, if you didnt want to weld them up?

cheers

rubber grommets with sealant round the edges would be a start, though since mines not galvinized I'll just weld them up.

I've looked at many different types of coating and zinc mixes including ones for boats etc, all seem fine for external use where they can be checked and recoated when required but in an existing chassis where there is going to be previous coating failure and rust I haven't seen one that gives me confidence. Sealing out the water and then basicly having the inside in an oil bath does seem to solve it once and for all?

here is my thoughts on this one , im a machinist to trade and use water soluble oil as a coolant on machines,this oil has a rust preventer built in ,now im thinking of pouring neat cutting oil into my land rover,this will mix with the water and condensation already in the chassis box section whatever,turn it into oil(eventually the water evaporates off and just leaves oil)thus stopping the prossess,and if it runs out as its water soluble i just hose it away,any thoughts anybody???  davy       

I love this stuff - http://www.bilthamber.com/search-products.php?cname=Corrosion%20Prevention. It's not too expensive and is pretty easy to put on. It's been used in marine environments and seems to stand up to anything.

http://www.zinga-uk.com/

Not cheap but works well esp. after sandblasting (garnett) anything steel, axles, radius arms, the lot.