SLROC Forum

there must be one of us local to you with a nanocom , where are you ?
i am in dunfermline area

I'm 5 miles south of Elgin, up in the hills towards Rothes...

I've just tried turning it over again and I can hear one of the relays under the drivers seat clicking like mad as the engine turns over - I suspect it's the glow-plug relay, which I think is the larger Lucas relay, as the glow-plug light also flicks on and off like mad as the engine turns over...is that normal?

Paul

Can anybody tell me where all the earth straps are on a Defender 110, please?

I think there's supposed to be one from the battery to the transfer box, another to the chassis near there and another from the engine block to one of the engine mounts.

If anybody knows the part numbers, that would b very helpful, too...

I thought I'd check they're all accounted for and not corroded away to nothing - I thought it might be the cause of my erratic temp gauge...

Paul

from battery to transfer box and transfer box to chassis,  mine failed this week and melted the handbrake cable, found this after fitting a new cable

Hello,

  right, stop me if you're getting fed up with this, as it is turning into a bit of a saga

  I managed to track down a replacement for the 70A relay that possibly has something to do with the glow-plugs - I decided to replace it on the grounds that the wiring had corroded at the G connector and had melted back along the loom about 10cm, so I thought the heat might have cooked the relay too.

  Anyway...it still wouldn't start with the new relay, so I took out the other two relays and tested them ("main" relay and who knows what - ABS apparently, but there's no ABS on my Defender) and they both work fine.  I haven't tested the Voltage Sensitive Switch (AMR3325), as I don't know how to and I don't know what it does - some people say it's for the lights, others say it's a split-charge relay, but there's no split-charge system on my Defender...

  So, I thought "what the hell" and decided to hold it on the starter until I'd flattened the battery but, b gger me if it didn't cough into life after about twenty seconds...but with a new and interesting racket coming from the new 70A relay.  Listening to it via a long screwdriver, it's switching on and off like mad, so why's it doing that?

  My temperature gauge is still jammed full-scale to zero - I've cleaned the contacts at the temperature sender, but that didn't help (I didn't think it would).  Just to see what difference it made, I disconnected the MAF sensor and the wires to the EGR vacuum relay - that made no difference, either...I also cleaned the electrical plug going to the FPR valve, but with similar lack of any obvious effect.

  So...can anybody tell me what the three relays and the Voltage Sensitive Switch actually do under the drivers seat?  If anybody can suggest why this 70A relay is presumably being thrashed to death by the ECU, that'd be dead helpful, too...at least I might be able to get the stupid thing to LR now and see if they can figure it out.

  As always, many thanks for your patience and help,

Paul

as a suggestion,

having had a odd temp guage problem before on a 90 is run an earth from the battery to the earth point of the ecu, there is a small black wire that is in the ecu loom & iirc its earthed on one o the ecu bolts,

that tray is they connected to the seat box by hope & glory which then earths to the body work & back to the battery & ive found can make the guages read odd,

Thanks for the tip - I'll try that...

I've got my Defender back on the road, but I don't think I ever figured out what the problem was...

Here's what I did, though:

Checked all the earth straps - they were fine
Added an earth cable from the earthing point under the drivers seat to the ECU (just in case)
Changed the "main" relay and the 70A (glowplug?) relay and repaired the corroded/melted wiring under the drivers seat
Changed the injector harness and cleaned all the oil out of the red ECU connector
Got rid of the EGR valve (with a bypass kit)
Replaced the vacuum pipe from the alternator/pump to the brake servo
Disconnected/Reconnected the ECU about a dozen times in the process

A local garage got the ECU to talk to their diagnostic kit and told me there was a list of errors "as long as your arm", although a lot of them were as a result of me unplugging things.  There was nothing obviously related to the starting problem or any recurrent errors, so we cleared them all and I'll see if any turn up again after a couple of weeks.

I think some of what I did must have helped, as the temperature gauge is now behaving itself, but as to what the actual starting problem was, I've no idea...

Paul