SLROC Forum

Hello,

  so, after changing the injector harness, cleaning all the oil out of the ECU loom and connectors at both ends and fitting an EGR bypass kit, my td5 Defender started first time and was fine...until tonight, when it's back to refusing to start again...

  So, I've been under the bonnet with a torch and have discovered that the vacuum line from the alternator/pump isn't connected to anything any more...  I imagine that whatever joint *was* there to join the vacuum pump to the EGR modulator, brake servo and the line to the ILT modulator was loose, giving me starting problems (I assume a complete lack of vacuum would do that?) and that it's now completely broken and fallen off on the way home tonight - I noticed the brakes were suddenly very hard to use...

  I've tried knocking together a jury-rig connector tonight, but with no luck - I can't find a picture or diagram of what should be there, though, so I don't know what to buy to replace it, either...

  Has anybody got a diagram or part number for the part I'm apparently missing?  The Haynes manual simply lists it as part 14 on page 4B-13 (Defender '83-'07).

  Thanks for any help with this,

Paul

Right - ignore all of the above...

I managed to find a diagram of the vacuum system and, as mine's an early Td5, there is no ILT valve - the only thing the vacuum system runs is the brake servo - I've still apparently lost part of my vacuum piping, but it's probably not that that's making the engine refuse to start...

Back to the drawing board on this one, I think...

Paul

I cleaned the oil out of my harness at the ecu once, used white spirit. It cleaned the oil but was very poor at connecting the pins (non starter) , so had the then wash it with fairy and water, started after it was dried.

Thanks for your reply,

  I sprayed all the connectors on my ECU loom with switch cleaning solvent and left them to dry for a week before spraying them up again, leaving them for a day and then plugging it back together, so I'm fairly happy it's not oil anymore...

  Mind you, the Bl**dy thing still won't start, so I'll give it another spray and see where that gets me...

  Can anybody tell me exactly what the vacuum line from the alternator/pump to the brake servo does?  I've been offered a blanking plug for it, but I'm not sure if that means I can just get rid of it (the brakes certainly don't pressurize without it...)

  Thanks,

Paul

i would get it diagnosed before you go any further it may be the imobiliser or something unrelated

Thanks - that was my next move...

  I've borrowed a Sealey VS8700 diagnostic tool, which is supposed to be ODB2/EOBD compatible - it plugs in and powers up, but can't talk to my Defender...

  I've read various stuff on the internet saying that Land Rover didn't make their ECUs ODB compliant before 2004 - mine's a 2001, so am I flogging a dead horse, here?

  Any ideas would be much appreciated - I feel like I'm clutching at straws here...

Thanks,

Paul

you really need a nanocom or hawkeye, most of the eobd stuff is no good,  the other thing to try is the imobiliser using the eka code input using the ignition key,
where are you about?

Hi,

  thanks for that - if the immobiliser was causing problems, what would the symptoms be?  At the moment, the engine's right on the edge of firing, but just won't catch - what does it do if you try and start it with the immobiliser armed?  I've only ever had it set the alarm off when it's set normally...

  I haven't got a clue what the EKA code for my Defender is - is there any way to find it out?

Thanks for your help,

Paul

just as you have described   on the verge of starting but wont
with the petrol disco you can bypass the spider in the imobiliser        land rovers crap electronics

Hi,

  that sounds like fun, then - bypass the spider?!

  If I tried arming and then disarming the alarm before trying to start it, do you think that would indicate whether it's an imobiliser problem?

  Thanks for your help,

Paul

i spent days on mine  checked the spark   yep got a spark      checked the plugs  yep got fuel     checked compression    yep good compression        last resort go on the disco forum     ah immobiliser  pulled the dash apart resoldered the apparent conections that were cracked    instant fire up for a few times then      he haw     back to the forum more instructions bypass the bit of crap with a few wires and it has went alright since          funny thing i was on the range rover sport forum today and they have more crap electronic gismos been out for years and still not sorted the faults they must buy there components for pennies when they can hire replacement cars and stealers rates for the sake of quality parts   factory parts crap    factory supplied tyres crap  monkeys for spanner men and dick turpin behind the custommer counter    these cars are 60-100 thousand pounds  so how do tata make money    they would make even more if the product were to work       have fun with the spider          i did   

Thanks for that - I'll have a look into it, although I can't find for definite whether the Td5 Defender actually has a spider immobiliser - some sites say the immobiliser is controlled by the ECU and some say there's a BCU that controls it.  I don't think my Defender has a BCU (it doesn't have anything it would control), but it wouldn't surprise me if it was all part of the ECU.

I think I'm going to try and get it to LR, have them run my wallet through a mangle and see if they can't figure it out with their diagnostic kit...

Thanks for your help,

Paul

the td5 doesnt have a spider , it has a 10as mounted in the dash,

when you turn ignition on what comes on the dash?

do you get the full assortment of lights? glow plug, cel. oil pressure & charge?

does the fuel pump run?

do the guages move or go off the scale?

in general a td5 isnt that complicated a setup, its just ocasionally plauged with stupid problems

Ive got a TD5 Defender, when the imobliser operates  a red flashing light shows on the dash, and I believe I get a solid red light on the speedo as well as the wagon wont even turn over until I reset it with either the key fob or the key code.

If the Landrover is turning over but not cathcing I doubt its a TD5 imobliser problem.

Not sure the best way of checking for a td5.

Traditionally if a desiel will turn over but not catch its either fuel, air or compression is one of the faults, I imagine the oil in the old loom interfered with the fuel in the injectors, but now thats fixed I wouldn't be sure how to fix the problem, sorry mate, would be interesting to know what the outcome is.

Hi,

 thanks for your continued help...

  When I turn on the ignition, I get all the lights I'm supposed to have - the only thing that's obviously wrong is the temp gauge, which goes off-scale towards zero.  The fuel pump runs fine and I can force it to prime the engine with the five presses of the accelerator, but it doesn't help.

  When I turn the key, the engine turns over fine and is on the "edge" of starting, but just won't catch - I know the fuel's fine, I'm not sure about the glow plugs, but it's warm enough not to need them I would have thought...  While the engine's turning over, the glow plug light flickers on and off, as does the engine light.  My immobiliser light (round red light in the speedo) behaves as normal.

  I took apart and cleaned the red ECU plug again today - a bit of oil, but nothing too bad.  I also checked all the relay connections and fuses under the drivers seat - they were all fine, apart from the large black Lucas relay in the rear corner, where one of the connections (to terminal G) had completely corroded through...



  I've replaced all the bad wiring and connectors, but it still won't start.

  I'm still suspecting either the immobiliser (although it seems to be working fine as far as I can tell) or, now, one of the relays under the driver's seat - I can't find a definitive guide as to what they all do, though - if anyone can help, it'd be much appreciated.

  I've read on some forum somewhere that "the yellow relay" can cause intermittent starting problems - not a lot to go on, but I'm willing to whip them out, test them and see if any are defunct once I know what they do...

Thanks,

Paul