SLROC Forum

Can anyone tell me if a 10p engine loom is the same as a 15p?  Just Transplanted a known good and running 10p engine into a facelift that had a 15p using the 10p loom and ecu.  It doesn't want to fire up despite having a new fuel filteter fitted and bled through properly.  Also had a new crank sensor. Tried putting the cars own later ecu on and programmed it to suit the injectors using the numbers read from the old ecu.  It now fires up for about 2 seconds, runs lumpy, smokes badly then cuts out.  Only thing I can think of is that the loom might be different somehow but the label on the old one is too worn to see.  The ecu isn't immobilised and has also learned the security OK.  Makes no difference with easy start.  Also can hear the injectors opening using nanocom

Any words of wisdom would help

Forgot. Plenty of power to the glow plugs but was a good cold starter before removal

Duncan

Got this sorted at last.  Read the Engine Management section and electrical library ofv Rave for the D2 looking for differences in the wiring between the early D2 and the facelift and found everything is the same.  So read what every sensor/switch does and Rave's explanation of the causes and symtoms of the failure of each one and came to the conclusion that none of them failing would give the rough running and stalling.

So went back to basics and rechecked the only one I'd replaced.  Found that the new crank sensor I fitted wasn't seating properly.  Took it out, removed the o ring and refittted  the sensor and the car fired up first time and runs smooth.  Although the bolt was tight the sensor couldn't have been going down far enough
to get the right signal off the flywheel.  According to Rave, the crank sensor doesn't just pick up engine speed but also sends a signal to the injectors via the ecu telling when to open - hence it running lumpy before cutting out - like fuel starvation 

So it seems that it is possible to fit the older 10p engine in place of the later 15p.  Thanks for all the suggestions

Duncan