SLROC Forum

Hello,

  I've made a start on removing the body from my 110 Td5 as part of a chassis and bulkhead change.

  I've removed the hardtop sides and roof, all the doors and the seats so far - I've just cut off the ten bolts that hold the rear of the tub to the rear cross-member, but I can't see where the other bolts that hold the tub to the chassis are.

  If anybody can answer some questions for me, I'd be very grateful;

   What other bolts hold the body tub to the chassis and how do I get at them?

   How do I split the tub from the front seat-box?

  If anybody knows of one, can you point me to a decent how-to guide, please?  I can't find a decent one anywhere


  Thanks for any help

Dunno about the 110, but on my Ninety, there are 6 bolts holding the rear tub to the set box.
2 x on each side at the 'B' pillar which connect the rear tub to the seat box and the sill panels which extend along the outer edge of the floor panels.
There are also 2 x bolts in the middle of the tub front panel which pick up on two short sections of angle which in turn are bolted to the chassis crossmember (on the Ninety it is the same crossmember that the rear axle 'A' frame connects to.

I would imagine on the 110 there would be some extra fasteners around the area of the rear side doors.   

Hi Sandy,

  thanks for that - it certainly helps!

  Are there any bolts that go directly down from the tub into the chassis?

Thanks

Hi mate , there are no bolts directly from tub to chassis , you have the bolts from rear crossmember to tub ( the ones you cut off) there should also be a couple so stay bars from chassis to tub next to wheel arch, if it a 5 door then there are two brackets ( 4 bolts ) each side of chassis middle crossmember to tub and then there is the bolts from tub to seat box , if it van type then the crossmember brackets are at the seat box.

Hope this helps

Iain

Hi Iain,

  thanks very much for that - that's a great help!

 

if you are doing a chassis change i would start at the front, lift the wings with radiator etc off, take floor pans/tunnel out lift bulkhead complete then lift the rear tub complete with cills and seatbox still attached.
van sides are easier than station wagons, if you have any rot on a station wagon body around the 2nd row door the tubs tend to bend and collapse when you lift them

Hi Piper,

  OK, thanks for that - I'd been debating whether to start at the front or the back, so front it is!

  You've almost certainly just saved me an awful lot of work, there, so thanks very much for your advice!

Hello,

  right - I managed to get the washer bottle, the heater and the heater ducting out from under the N/S wing - quite a pain in the R's, I have to say!

  The guide I'm following says the that wing is now held on with three bolts at the front, one at the top into the bulkhead and on at the bottom into the sill.  Can anybody add a bit more detail on how the wing is held on at the front, though, as I'm not sure the bolts I've found (at the top, into a bracket that's attached to the bonnet slam-panel) are the right ones.

  Any advice will be very gratefully received!

Thanks

theres bolts down the sides of the rad i think. last one i did i lafte the rad and front panel on the wings. removed rad hoses unplugged behind lights, removed bolts between bulkhead and wings (pain) and lift whole front off as one bit

OK - thanks for that.

  Does the intercooler come off with the radiator?  What bolts need removing from the front-middle to get it to come away with the wings?

  Are the radiator/intercooler only attached to the bodywork, then?

Thanks

havent done a td5 but i presume its very similar to the 300tdi and the rad/intercooler is bolted to the front panel and comes with the panel when the hoses are removed.
the whole idea is to lift as big a chunk in one go as you can. if you had a forklift etc you can lift the body in one go off the chassis

OK - there must be something holding the whole thing down at the front otherwise it'd just flap about when you drove over speed-ramps...I'll try to take it all off in one go and let you know how it panned out

Thanks for your help and advice

Dunno about your model, but on my 1985 Ninety  -  starting at the front, each wing is held by two bolts at the top onto the slam panel and at the bottom  front edge with two bolts through the inner wing onto the chassis (one in front of the rad/intercooler, and one that almost goes through the rad/intercooler!).
There is a bolt which joins the inner wing to an offshoot of the bulkhead/chassis bracket, and two bolts from the inner wing to a flat bracket sticking out of the footwell.
At the rear, there are the 4 bolts from the rear flange of the wing into the bulkhead 'A' pillar, and one bolt at the top on the flat section of the wing that goes via an 'L' shaped bracket into the bulkhead.   

Dunno about your model, but on my 1985 Ninety  -  starting at the front, each wing is held by two bolts at the top onto the slam panel and at the bottom  front edge with two bolts through the inner wing onto the chassis (one in front of the rad/intercooler, and one that almost goes through the rad/intercooler!).
There is a bolt which joins the inner wing to an offshoot of the bulkhead/chassis bracket, and two bolts from the inner wing to a flat bracket sticking out of the footwell.
At the rear, there are the 4 bolts from the rear flange of the wing into the bulkhead 'A' pillar, and one bolt at the top on the flat section of the wing that goes via an 'L' shaped bracket into the bulkhead.

...and there is also an ACME type self tapper halfway down the radiator grille panel that fastens to the outer wing panel.

Hi Sandy,

  thanks for your help - I'm slowly finding that half the weight of my Defender must be bolts!

  For anybody interested, here's the story so far;



...from the top left, then;

1) One of my neighbours has kindly given up one of his barns to the cause, so after a great deal of sweeping, here's my new after-work and weekend home...
2) The new chassis waiting patiently...
3) I started by taking the doors off...
4) ...and the rear door - glad I've not got a CSW!

5) Getting the roof off started with a chain-winch secured to the barn roof...
6) A bit of persuasion with a jack dislodged the seal above the windscreen...
7) Here's the roof perilously hanging loose...
8 ) ...and I just drove the Defender out from under it - job done

9) I can't be the only person to think "hey, that looks cool!" with no roof in it - the first time it rains, though, I expect it's not so cool...
10) Piper5 then pointed out that I was starting at the wrong end, so I took the bonnet off...
11) ...took the lights etc out...
12) ...and started removing all the gubbins under the N/S wing

13) This is where it started getting awkward - the washer bottle is held on with three bolts that go through the inner wing - all of then had rusted solid, so all of them had to be angle-ground off
14) The washer-bottle won't go past the suspension top cover, so that had to come off - to get at the screws, I had to take out all the turbo inlet pipework...
15) ...finally got the washer bottle out...
16) I decided to cover the turbo inlet, as it was obviously only a matter of time before I dropped something in it!

17) The next thing off was the wing-arch, which was a b@st@rd, as the plastic clips are VERY secure (I don't know why they didn't just build the whole vehicle using these!)
18) I might be a bit out of sequence here, but I took out the heater, which wasn't a difficult job...
19) ...plus the ducting under the wing - it need quite an enthusiastic bit of "manoeuvring" to get it out...
20) There are various philips-head screws that fix the inner wing to the chassis - all of the were rusted solid, so they all needed cutting off...

21) Inside the wing are the 4 bolts that fix it to the bulkhead - these were remarkably easy to get out, surprisingly!
22) The real b@st@rds are the two bolts at the bottom of the wings at the front - it took a whole evening just to get these out!

I'm still trying to release the wings - the bolts at the bottom/front secure them to a bracket that also holds the front panel - I can't see how it's fixed to the chassis, though, so I'm next going to remove the radiator and intercooler to get more room to see what's going on.  There's definitely two bolts at the top of the wings at the front into the centre panel, which are very difficult to get at and two half way up the wings at the front into the middle panel, which are nigh-on impossible to get at, because of the grill fixing lugs.

I'm probably going to remove the N/S wing on its own, but may remove the O/S wing complete with the front panel, depending on if I can figure out how it's fixed to the chassis.  Removing the radiator means removing the fan, so I'm stuck until the "special" viscous coupling spanner turns up from eBay...

Things I'm using that are making this job less of a PITA than it could be - a Makita impact driver, a box of latex gloves and a set of "face-driving" sockets...


Tune in later for more of the same