SLROC Forum

Hello,

  amongst the many rattles, squeaks, rumbles etc that my Td5 110 normally makes, a new noise has come to the fore; a sort of knocking/tapping noise that follows the speed of the wheels rather than the speed of the engine.

  It sounds sort of like what I'd imagine the front diff would sound like if it had no oil in it or a tooth had come off the crown-wheel, only it's coming from the LHS at the front, no the RHS where the diff is...and there's oil in the diff...I've checked.  Everything else seems fine - it still accelerates like a Thames barge, vibrates like I'm going through the sound-barrier at about 55mph and every body panel rattles deafeningly as per normal.

  I've had it up on a set of ramps and a proper mechanic has had a look at it and can't see anything obvious, so I'm at a loss as to what's causing it.  I had to change the clutch thrust bearing about 6 months ago and changed the clutch and flywheel at the same time, putting in a solid flywheel instead of a DMF - there were as many people saying "for the love of God, don't do it!" as there were saying "DMFs are a con!  LR themselves went back to fitting solid flywheels!".  As expected, there's a lot more clutch rattle as a result, but I'm pretty sure it's not that - not unless it's "bedding in" in some way and getting worse...

  Anyway, any thoughts/suggestions/prognostications of doom would be welcomed - my approach at the moment as to keep driving it until the fault becomes more apparent...although, if my front-diff self destructs (or similar), I expect I'll offer up something rather more Anglo-Saxon than "Oh, so that's what the problem was..."

  Thanks

  thought bangs and knocks were as standard.
Broken halfshaft, worn drive flange, dodgy cv, something stuck in the tyre, seperated brake pad lining.
I just turn the stereo up makes it sound like new.

Ah, the radio volume control - along with the size 10 boot and, if I'm feeling technical, the size 10 hammer, these form the mainstay of the defender tool-kit...

Thanks for the suggestions - I changed the half-shafts and swivel-joints last year, so hopefully it's not them!  Could be a CV join, I suppose - it just made it through the MOT with no complaints on that front, though...  A worn drive flange...not something I've come across yet, so that's one to look at perhaps.

Thanks

i would never remove a dual mass flywheel, its there to balance out the vibrations in the crank.ask me how i know . cost me the engine in my disco three the flywheel was knocking and caused the crank the move and break the thrust washers.

...like I said, there's as many people saying "Oh my God, you've done what?!" as there are saying "Meh...Dual-Mass, Shmual-Mass."

Surely with a flywheel change the noise would be constant?. The td5 I done for the old boss was noisier but constant. Irregular clinking points to a failure. But then I'm no expert only going on landrover I know. Was told from a old school boy boot it hard keep it up and if the noise comes when you let off there is play somewhere. Final word off caution don't trust a Mot pass most garages don't even know how to check a landrover properly.

The MOT does not go much further than wheel bearings on the driveline front, its just the way the test is.

CVs or universal joints would be where I would start to look, one quarter (if that makes sense) of my rearmost prop yoke decided to start chewing up needle rollers. It was tricky to see unless really up close and there was very little play that could be felt/observed. The giveaway was the rollers poking out the top of the cup. It started out ticking then more like a nail in a tin can at times, but got more and more graunchy with miles.

Hello chaps,

  thanks for the advice - that does sound like what it sounds like, if you see what I mean...

  If I put it up on a set of ramps, what am I looking for to tell if the CV joints are the culprit(s)?

Thanks