SLROC Forum

Hi,
My very first post here, so be kind !!!
I managed to get stuck during a drive at Drumclog, caused by my tow bar grounding and the nearside rear wheel spinning. I was rescued by a kind passer by.
This got me to thinking how this could be avoided, apart from my removing the tow bar, (not an option). I have read that the serious guys have fitted air diff locks to the front and rear axles, but I was wondering if limited slip diffs could be fitted, or if this would not work, (forgive my ignorance why would it not work).
Has anyone tried this, and any advice on the costs involved ??
Thanks for replies.
sparks

Hi, you say the rear nearside wheel was spinning,was a front wheel spinning as well, you did have the centre difflock engaged? If required an automatic locking axle diff can be fitted or an air operated unit, just depends on how much money you want to spend. If you fit any sort of lockers you will not be able to count for points though in SLROC trials.

left foot braking does it for me - but if you read the route ahead and plan your path through it you shouldnt get stuck in the first place 
also the obvious one is - dont go off road on your own - better to have a mate for recovery with you than have to wait for some one to pass by 

If its the towbar getting dug in I wouldn't imagine any sort of diff would help, they would just let you get slightly. It would be worth investigating the towbar options, see if there is one that may be removable easily or at least not so low.

Agree with Dave T.  Depends what you want your towbar for (if for something like a caravan, my advice as follows is probably useless).  I have a D2 and removed my towbar and had the guys at GEMM raise it so it's simply a recovery point now - huge difference clearance-wise versus the plough I had on before....  I can also pop my bike rack on still of course.

Alan.

A locking diff will help when one axle has a wheel dangling in the air.... however seeing as sometimes you end up with the other axle dangling, you need two diffs.

Given that ARBs are a grand each, that's a lot of brass for a simple problem.

I'd suggest several things:
1) Accept that you get stuck occasionally
2) Learn to drive better.... and even thouse of us who have been driving for 20 years can still fail to read the ground right and get stuck.
3) Thereafter, I'd try for mods like: More aggressive tyres; a spring lift; even a demountable tow-bar;....
4) Accept you'll get get stuck....

I'd suggest several things:
1) Accept that you get stuck occasionally
2) Learn to drive better.... and even thouse of us who have been driving for 20 years can still fail to read the ground right and get stuck.
3) Thereafter, I'd try for mods like: More aggressive tyres; a spring lift; even a demountable tow-bar;....
4) Accept you'll get get stuck....

5. Take recovery kit as well as another vehicle.

I've seen me pulling cars with front & rear lockers, they don't make you invicble, but they do get further before you get stuck .

Tow rope and a second vehicle
Shovel, Hi-Lift jack and some matting.....
Tirfor hand winch and a hefty stake or two as a makeshift ground anchor ?
Battery or hydraulic winch and commercial ground anchor....
The equation has three variables - time, money and physical effort required before you are mobile again.

As others have said, the more you mod the vehicle the further you will go into the clag before you eventually get stuck. Accept that you will get stuck and work on how you'll recover yourself before spending squillions.

Alterntatively, if you really don't want to get stuck off-road...buy a BV 206. :-)

"Alterntatively, if you really don't want to get stuck off-road...buy a BV 206. :-) "

or a BV 202 (landrover engine)