Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!

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Malc

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Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« on: October 17, 2011, 09:37:21 PM »
Was fitting a track rod guard at the weekend there. It needs the bolt out that connects the radius arm to the axle (rear one out of the two). Got the drivers one out easy enough but the nearside is putting up a bit more of a fight. I got the nut off but the bolt wouldn?t turn at all. So I got some heat onto it and managed to get it to turn, but the bolt is seized onto the metal sleeve in the bush. So I think I?ve jiggered the bush and was getting a bit frustrated by this point, so I cut the head off the bolt to try and punch it through (lots of awkward sawing). It still won?t move a millimetre!! Are there any other tricks to this?? And will I need to remove the whole radius arm to replace the bushes now? >:(
Disco 300tdi
Defender 90 V8

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diesel jock

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2011, 10:29:30 PM »
Hi mate
You could try a 1mm cutting disc on 4 1/2 " grinder and cut the bolt either side of the radius arm between arm and bracket,then you could pull arm out and remove whats left of bush and bolt. Or another thing that works for seized stuff is cheap cola pour over leave for a while and punch out bolt I've used this on seized injectors with good results better than wd40 or equivalent.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Stewart

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stage recovery

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2011, 10:34:55 PM »
No easy method,grind remainder of bolt flush with axle bracket then prise open sides of bracket until the radius arm can be removed,bushes can then be replaced,hammer axle bracket sides back into place.

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Malc

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2011, 05:40:54 PM »
Thanks guys - I'll get it cut out as this looks like the easiest way to do it. I'll order some new polybushes tonight so I've got them ready. Do the bushes come out of the arm fairly easily or is it another big hammer job? ;D
Disco 300tdi
Defender 90 V8

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diesel jock

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2011, 06:43:48 PM »
Last set I done I used the hydraulic press at work,but a big hammer and an old socket on top of something solid should do the job.
Cheers
Stewart

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Malc

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2011, 07:36:54 PM »
OK thanks Diesel J. I'll give it a go. :P
Disco 300tdi
Defender 90 V8

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stage recovery

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2011, 09:05:24 PM »
My 22 ton press is very handy,a previous 10 ton ram was struggling to move front radius arm bushes,rear axle arm bushes are even harder!

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Graeme

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2011, 09:31:22 PM »
swan vestas and a hack saw for removal and a vice for reasembly

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ffourphantomfixer

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  • Name: Andrew Forrest
Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #8 on: October 19, 2011, 04:42:51 PM »
I drilled the rubber out, as you start to drill the bit wants to run round the rubber part of the bush, after a few mins and a couple o snapped drills I was through, then cut 2 paralel groves about 10 mm apart right thru the bush outer and chisseled the outer out. about 10 mins each. I used fairy liquid on the polly bushes to help them sit just ticketyboo.
Drew.
She said at my age I need something else to play with

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ffourphantomfixer

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  • Name: Andrew Forrest
Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2011, 04:53:08 PM »
forgot to say.
Im sure it was about ?7 for the front or rear to replace all the bolts with new, check paddocks site.

or here

http://www.paddockspares.com/rear-bolt-kit-4-bolts-6-nuts.html?___SID=U

Drew.
She said at my age I need something else to play with

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genem

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  • Name: Gene Maxwell
Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2011, 07:34:03 PM »
I drilled the rubber out, as you start to drill the bit wants to run round the rubber part of the bush, after a few mins and a couple o snapped drills I was through, then cut 2 paralel groves about 10 mm apart right thru the bush outer and chisseled the outer out. about 10 mins each. I used fairy liquid on the polly bushes to help them sit just ticketyboo.
Drew.

The precision engineering that kept the RAF in the air.... ;D
If its not broken you are not trying hard enough....

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geoff

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2011, 09:21:13 PM »
I drilled the rubber out, as you start to drill the bit wants to run round the rubber part of the bush, after a few mins and a couple o snapped drills I was through, then cut 2 paralel groves about 10 mm apart right thru the bush outer and chisseled the outer out. about 10 mins each. I used fairy liquid on the polly bushes to help them sit just ticketyboo.
Drew.

The precision engineering that kept the RAF in the air.... ;D

We have an RAF chap at work, we keep him at "goods in" the Royal Navy are in the Drawing Office ;D

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ffourphantomfixer

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  • Name: Andrew Forrest
Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #12 on: October 20, 2011, 02:04:13 PM »
A wee bit o interxservice rivalry going on here "chaps"  ;D

Dont be bitter guys, one of the services had to come out on top   :D

"The Royal Navy are in the Drawing Office"  Clinton Cards ?   ;)

The crab.
 
She said at my age I need something else to play with

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Malc

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #13 on: October 21, 2011, 09:22:53 PM »
Finally got the arm off tonight. I had to cut through the bolt on either side of the axle brackets and then bend the bracket outwards but got it eventually. Thing is, someone has been here before and has fitted castor bushes. I've removed both from the nearside radius arm and so need two new ones to keep using them. I looked up these and they are ?100 for a set of four :o. So how necessary are they or should I just fit the polybushes that I've already bought ???
Disco 300tdi
Defender 90 V8

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diesel jock

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Re: Radius arm bolt - seized solid!!
« Reply #14 on: October 21, 2011, 09:56:06 PM »
I'm assuming that its got a lift kit on if it has castor correction bushes fitted,some folk dont bother with castor correction others prefer it as it keeps steering geomatry right if it was me I would fit like for like to keep things right but change both sides together keep things even