SLROC Forum

Hi guys the time has come for me to beg for some help!!!

Bought my first 90 several months ago and as time has passed there are the standard issues coming to light after being through more owners than I’ve had hot meals!!

Having major issues with the rear brake lights and the wiring has been butchered over the years. As a result the brake lights seem to make up their own mind when they will work.

Would it be beneficial to replace the rear loom (can this even be done?) or would it be better and just as effective to strip and solder all the correct wires, removing the connectors altogether, and cut away everything that is left and not needed.

Having never worked on cars before other than changing a wheel I can see this forum page being used more than once!! 

Thanks in advance guys

Graeme

It is all part of the chassis loom that runs down inside the right leg of the chassis, there is no small section. If it is that bad it is either cut it back and replace the small rear section, you may have some slack to pull it out of the chassis a little or replace the whole lot, not a cheap exercise. 

As far as I remember the rear loom starts from a multiplug on the bulkhead. Might be worth checking www.autosparks to see what a replacement would cost and run it along the top of the chassis. If not then making your own loom from a section of 7 core trailer wire should not be too hard ? ...says the boy who spent a week chasing a fault caused by a short in the number-plate lamp that I'd caused by wiring + and - the wrong way round....

  :-)

Hi guys.

Thanks for the tips, looking to tackle this asap so your advice is great.

Will be sure to let you know if my novice mind can pull this off!!

Graeme

As Gene has stated, I have done the rear of my series with 7 core cable (towbar wiring) and it works just dandy, dont run halogen lights with it tho as the cable is to thin for 50 watt lights.
I dont know if there is room between the chassis and the rear tub on a 90, like you have on a Series, but if you have then you dont need to run the wiring thru the chassis again.

If you do replace the loom with 7 core, Screwfix does a does a range of self adhesive clip that you can feed a cable tie through to secure the cable to the chassis.  However you have to get a good clean surface to stick them to.  I've used their Masonary mount cable tie clips which entails drilling a a small hole in chassis and just tapping it in then passing the cable tie through

Duncan

My past experience with rear light problems found the wiring loom inside the chassis damaged by chaffing on the internal bracing for the shock absorber top mounting,I take the loom out and pass it down the inside of a length of 20mm flexible conduit which can then be cable tied into place.

  I would echo stage recovery's comments ref rear wiring, I did exactly the same with the last chassis change that I did. Ran the wiring externally through some plastic split conduit secured on the top run of the chassis, seems to be common that the wiring chafes inside the chassis from new & some people just splice in another cable externally which can leave the potential for a short from the old cable burning the insulation of adjacent cables in the loom.

Graeme,

might be worth checking the stop lamp swith on the pedal box housing - I've had to change this switch twice on my lightweight and also once on my def 90.

Malc

cheers guys, your tips have been great!!!


will let you know how it goes

Dunno if its you thats the jinx or the new MOT ticket....but my NSR indicator and stop lights have gone from being bomb-proof to being intermittent since I drove away from the garage, paper in hand !