1994 RR Classic Ignition System

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The Classic Man

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  • Name: Robin Watt
1994 RR Classic Ignition System
« on: January 07, 2012, 05:20:27 PM »
Can anyone help, my daughter and son-in-law are looking at a RR Classic 1994. They have been told there are problems with ignition system, engine lumpy at tick-over, new rotor arm and dist. cap on order, or may even be the distributor it`s self. I am not familiar with this engine so some advice please and on cost of new distributor.
The Classic Man
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rangerovering

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Re: 1994 RR Classic Ignition System
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2012, 05:31:29 PM »
Before condoning the dizzy...

Check the rotor arm springs back sharply when turned, if not the bob weights have come off - fairly easy cheap fix

Use ONLY GENUINE LR DEALER SUPPLIED dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads. There is concern at the moment about the rotor arms now being supplied without the moulding that prevents dampness causing problems (part of the reason Genuine was always superior), hopefully a fix can be found.

NGK BPR6ES spark plugs

Any mileage over 70k and the camshaft and followers will certainly be past their best. A common cause of misfires

Missing steel plate on 1 or more rocker arms

If I wasn't in SW England I would offer to help out!
Steve




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The Classic Man

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  • Name: Robin Watt
Re: 1994 RR Classic Ignition System
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2012, 05:39:54 PM »
Thanks for that.Just looking at it at the moment 104k on the clock.
The Classic Man
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MudBucket

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Re: 1994 RR Classic Ignition System
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2012, 11:26:38 PM »
Hi,

Lumpy idle can also be due (root cause of no spark) to other things like, over/under fuelling, timing wrong, bad compression etc

it the exhaust or plugs sooty, or wet(petrol) and sooty? (if they are, do new clean ones soot up quickly?)
is it an efi or carburetor?
what colour is the exhaust?

is there a lot of blow by? smoke coming from the oil filler cap (when removed).
what are the compressions like?

Ive just spent a lot of time getting a v8 from a classic back into shape, symptoms were similar (lumpy idle, but with black smoke), but cause was down to a ton of everything under the sun, each thing had an effect. replaced plugs, HT, dizzy, rotor, fuel pressure reg, plenum stepper, check ecu function, replaced broken throttle position pot, replaced head gaskets, honed cylinders, renewed piston rings (had a big bit of blow by, now compressions are all about 170 ish), changed bearing shells, set timing, found vacuum leaks (there can be billions of them...), replaced brake servo vac unit, replaced leaking dizzy vacuum advance, reseated valves, stripped-cleaned-tested and resealed mass air flow meter,checked injectors,checked fuel line for correct pressures, checked coil for correct voltages and that coil does not fail when it gets hotter!,  cleaned and sealed plenum component parts etc etc yadda yadda...

did all of these a bit at a time and got the engine running better and better, now at a stage where it runs fine (idle is not lumpy now), but the plenum vacuum is not really low enough at idle for my taste... so i still have too much air getting in somewhere.

if your problem is just sparks or dizzy etc then that can be fixed very easily by what rangerovering says, if the root cause is something else, you could be in for a long haul of diagnosing to get the root cause.

if it is an efi, then it is easy to confuse the ecu into running the engine rich etc, all you need is a few vacuum leaks and the MAF will report the wrong thing to the ecu and the ecu will compensate by buggering up your fuelling to get the correct values i.e. lumpy idle. when revving the ecu relies more on the tps than the maf so lumpy goes away, unless the plugs are black.

Hope this does not scare you off, but this my engine has done about 130K.. or is it 180K   can't remember... bugger...

Cheers,

Stephen

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bob

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Re: 1994 RR Classic Ignition System
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2012, 06:16:52 PM »
Can anyone help, my daughter and son-in-law are looking at a RR Classic 1994. They have been told there are problems with ignition system, engine lumpy at tick-over, new rotor arm and dist. cap on order, or may even be the distributor it`s self. I am not familiar with this engine so some advice please and on cost of new distributor.

Whilst all the other comments are very true and valid, there is a common problem which is that the wrong rotor arm/ dissy cap combination have been fitted as the 3.5 and 3.9 parts "LOOK" the same but there are distance issues between the rotor arm and the cap that can cause spark problems when parts are mixed up.....

Easy and cheap to fix with new, correct parts...

Bob