SLROC Forum

Got a 300tdi 90 at the moment.  Looking for a swivel kit (both sides), as it looks like the seals are going and the ball is starting to get pitted.  If you have any advice or can point me in the right direction, that would be great!  Just bought an r380 disco gearbox to replace the one i had, the old one stopped engaging 5th & reverse so cash is a bit tight!!!   

Thanks

Chris

Paddocks is probably the cheapest.

Hi mate I agree paddocks is the way to go I bought 2 complete swivel kits from them think they were ?85 each,also worth getting a swivel gaitor kit from them ?25 easy to fit and keeps the s#!t off your new swivel balls.
Cheers
Stewart

Just done mine - on one side anyway. It was actually easier than I thought. I cheated by leaving the old swivel seal in place as it was actually OK when cleaned up. Another cheat is to cut the new one at the top and slide it in without removing the swivel ball - according to a US site I found - then seal the cut with a blob of sealant. The longest part of the job was getting the rotten split pin out of the TRE - snapped off and had to be punched out with a small electricans screwdriver.

Other advice I got:
Leave the bottom pin well alone. It does not wear and you'll never get it to seal properly, just replace the bearings top and bottom.

Shims on the top - matter of trial and error, start with a lot and take them out till the swivel moves with a bit of resistance.

Seems to have worked - passed the MOT today anyway. 

Thanks for the advice guys.  Really appreciate it!  I'm going to investigate both side once ive got the gearbox back in its rightful place. 

Cheers

Chris

For all the time its worth doing it properly if you can. Get the black coated swivel balls (think it is PTFE) as they don't rust like the chrome.

Wheel off, then there are 2 ways of going:

1: Pads out, caliper off, drive flange off, undo wheel bearing nuts, pull out the bearing race, remove the brake disc as a whole assembly. Drain the swivel of whatever fluids are left in from the drain plug at the bottom. Undo the ring of bolts holding the seal retaining ring and pull the seal out its housing. Slacked off the king pin bolts and remove the top pin first with it's shims, then the bottom one. You can then remove the swivel from the axle. Pull out the CV and driveshaft. Undo the 7 bolts from the swivel ball to axle tube and remove the swivel ball.

2: Pads out, caliper off. Drain the swivel housing, undo the seal retaining ring, remove seal,  Undo the 7 axle to swivel bolts and remove the whole assembly from the axle, pulling out the driveshaft with it. Stand it up on end and clean up the seal surfaces.

Method 1 is the way to go if you are doing the full works with a new swivel ball. When you do the preloads (with no seal fitted) add 2-3 pounds to the manual value if using new bearings - when they bed in the steering won't go all sloppy and need the preloads done again.
Method 2 is ideal for a new seal, minimal dismantling and means not having to cut the seal to make it go on - they are quite rigid things and don't take much abuse before being damaged. 

HTH

Got a 300tdi 90 at the moment. 
Just bought an r380 disco gearbox to replace the one i had, the old one stopped engaging 5th & reverse so cash is a bit tight!!!   

Evening Chris,

I'll pick up on the point that has been overlooked in that the disco box will not fit your 90 without hacking the seat box and transmission tunnel about due to the gear stick being in a different position.

Defender R380's sell on ebay for not a lot of money or you should be able to get faults in you box repaired at a reasonable cost if you do the grunt and remove/fit it.

Bob

Quote from: tosh90 on October 19, 2011, 05:01:00 PM

Got a 300tdi 90 at the moment. 
Just bought an r380 disco gearbox to replace the one i had, the old one stopped engaging 5th & reverse so cash is a bit tight!!!   

Evening Chris,

I'll pick up on the point that has been overlooked in that the disco box will not fit your 90 without hacking the seat box and transmission tunnel about due to the gear stick being in a different position.

Defender R380's sell on ebay for not a lot of money or you should be able to get faults in you box repaired at a reasonable cost if you do the grunt and remove/fit it.

Bob

Good point Bob. Would fitting the Def bellhousing from the old box fix this as well as the selector housing from the defender if needed? Not done one myself on a defender but on the RRC the short and long stick LT77's could be chopped and changed easily....

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice on both the swivel & gearbox.  I've got a mate helping me with both.  I am replacing the r380 gearbox like for like.  already had the seat box cut from last one should should go in like for like....i hope! 

thanks again

chris

Another cheat is to cut the new one at the top and slide it in without removing the swivel ball - according to a US site I found - then seal the cut with a blob of sealant.     Gene.... thats bad, and you slag me off 

The longest part of the job was getting the rotten split pin out of the TRE - snapped off and had to be punched out with a small electricans screwdriver.

The metal used in split pins is much softer than the metal that surrounds it so is very easy to drill out, it will probably take longer to find the drill and bits than to drill it out.

I got 2 kits from Paddocks several weeks ago, they sent britpart kits, the new top pins dont fit inside the new bearings,  3 weeks ago I was promised replacement (non britpart) top pins but they still aint here.

Forgot to say when setting up preload on swivel bearings set them up to 14lbs with the seal in place saves stripping down again after shimming,learned this from a mate in the r.e.m.e
Cheers
Stewart

you dont have to strip down again after doing the pre-load, just hang the seal and retaining ring over the back of the swivel before you start to rebuild the hub then when the pre-load is done just pop the seal in and bolt up the ring. worked for me.

you dont have to strip down again after doing the pre-load, just hang the seal and retaining ring over the back of the swivel before you start to rebuild the hub then when the pre-load is done just pop the seal in and bolt up the ring. worked for me.

x2

The preload values in the manual are without the seal fitted. As I said above with new bearings set the preload 2-3lb heavier and your steering will bed in and stay taught for much longer.

no prob's.  i''ve got the gearbox to go in this weekend.  once thats in and its back up and running, i'll let you know how i get on with the rest!  just noticed that i'll need to replace one of the rear hubs as i changed the seal a few months ago, yet its still leaking like crazy! 

cheers

chris