SLROC Forum
General Category => TECHNICAL CHAT => Topic started by: Dave T on March 02, 2012, 04:40:52 PM
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This is what prompted me to change my chassis, found after it just "didn't feel quite right" at the GRR a couple of weeks ago
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/DSCF1379.jpg)
Well thats me got my nice shiney new chassis now from the Land Rover Heaven of Marsland Chassis, it really is nice and shiney! 8) 8)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day0.jpg)
Started the strip today, I'm only working weekends initially to get it apart before taking a week in April to hopefully get it all back together.
Today was just a couple of hours this afternoon after work, put my normal wheels on (it lowers it a bit so hopefullly easier all round) and removed most of the external bits, winch, bumper, steering guard, spare wheel carrier, and Nato hitch, its amazing how long it takes to undo big mucky bolts!
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day11.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day12.jpg)
Tomorrow will probably be washing the muck off as best possible (I'm going to be doing it on my neighbours drive so don't want to upset him too much) and getting rid of the radio, CB etc from inside.
Plan is to get it to a position where I can change the timing belt next weekend and then make sure it still runs before removing the engine, that way I'll know that if it doesn't run the timing belt is ok, well it makes sense to me anyway. :D :D
I will be asking lots of questions of our resident experts on here as we go through, the first is, my Marsland chassis has a TD5 rear cross member, it differs to the 300tdi one in that the holes for the Nato hitch don't go right through but have captive bolts on the other side of a single sheet of steel, is it ok to attach a Nato hitch to here, just for recovery not towing, or how else should it be attached?
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Have fun with it.
;) Maybe get in some drinks, cold ones, some hot stuff & a good few nibbles and hold a party for some LR enthusiasts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoeif1eQ55E7feature-players_embedded
george
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That chassis looks great, looking forward to reading about it ;D. Let me know if you need any help? I will need to do the same soon i think.
Best of luck.
Alasdair
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Looks really good. Pls take time to keep us updated - I for one keen to hear how you get on as at some point I'd like to do the same (OK, I actually need to buy a motor first!). Good luck with the project. Alan.
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Good Luck Dave, I'll try and get over soon!
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Bit of filler, It'll be fine. :-)
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A whole bucket load of filler for the bulkhead please!
Thats the end of day 2, quite a lot achieved although not necessarily to look at.
Interior has been virtually stripped today, radio & CB out and all the rest of the rubbish you keep in there. Dash is virtually removed now, that was a real pain, this is going to be a long job putting it back together. Once through to the bulkhead we have found a couple of holes on the drivers side, passenger side looks not to bad so far. Lucky I know a very good welder, this may keep him busy for a while! :D
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/DSCF1405.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day21.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day22.jpg)
A lot of the day has also been spent getting nuts and bolts loose, because I want to do valves and timing belt with it intact we have taken it down to 2 bolts on a couple of threads so once ready then it should be very quick to get apart.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day23.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day24.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day25.jpg)
Tomorrow will be spent doing valve clearances now I can reach everything and preparing for timing belt which will be next weekend.
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A whole bucket load of filler for the bulkhead please!.
OK, some filler and scrumfled up newspaper to bulk it out then. :-)
...Seriously, well done Dave, thats a big job to tackle - especially on a neighbours drive !
Cheers,
Gene
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TD5 rear cross memeber? - Are the tabs removable to attach the rear tub or is it just the captive bolts you got Dave?
My advice, give up the hours of labour trying to free off stuck bolts, get out the angle grinder with thin disks. Replace with new. I spent ages trying to save nuts & bolts. I didn't use any of them on the re-build.
Keep the photo's and info coming, i'm liking the brown parcel tags. This is great research for a large number of us. I still can't find that oil seal for you.
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No photos today as visibly not a lot has changed. Started off doing my valve clearances as it was such a pain to reach with the winch bumper on, all were slightly tight apart from one which was well loose, so all sorted there now.
From there went on with labelling wires and getting them all away from the body around the back end, its amazing how much time that took up, but should pay dividends on the rebuild.
Also today carried on removing bolts, so tunnel is now out, floor panel all loose, seatbox is ready to remove, inner plastic wheel arches removed and excavated half of Drumclog to find the bolts that hold the wings to the bulkhead.
The real pain today was caused by a couple of bolts on top of the main cross member in front of the rear wheels. There is no room to see what you are doing or to see why on earth they are there but what a pain. I think I have now managed to gring enough away, will see when we try and remove the tub.
Next job is timing belt and then full steam ahead continuing to get it all stripped down. For anyone else doing this it could be a little easier and quicker but being my first I just want to make sure it runs after the timing belt is done so that if it doesn't on the rebuild I know that is not a source of a problem.
Next update will be next weekend.
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Good work, sounds like good fun
dave
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Your a brave man!
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Shiny bits started arriving today, 1 inch spacers, I don't want a huge lift, should be just enough. More arriving tomorrow as well hopefully ;D ;D
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/9142cfff.jpg)
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I'll be round about 530pm Dave with a couple of boxes of goodies!
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You know we need to sneak them in!!!! :o :o
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I'll be as discreet as I was with my invoice from Strathearns yesterday. If you want me to keep the parts here until your ready for them let me know ;)
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You know we need to sneak them in!!!! :o :o
Not so brave after all then !!
;)
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Another half day but quite productive, mostly getting rid of the radiator and intercooler and then removing as much as possible from the wings. Also took a few of the suspension bits off to give a paint so they are ready to go back on.
Off diving tomorrow but back into it on Sunday, aim will be to get to a state so that next weekend everything can be taken straight off the chassis and there are a fair few bits that need a good paint before going back on.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day4.jpg)
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Day 5, quite a productive day, seat box out, sills out, exhaust prop shafts off and loads of other small bits out.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day54.jpg)
Now you can see the cross member a bit clearer, it really is quite scary how rotten it is with some large cracks through the metal itself and going right into the main beam sections as well. I think Gene must have had a hand in here somewherel as there was also a ton of filler came out, although that was more solid than the metal :o :o! I have seen better cut and shuts than the state of this, and there are loads of other bits all rotting through as well.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day51.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day52.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day53.jpg)
Next on the list is take the roof off, then the rear tub and wings and try and extract the engine, thet sy=tarts Friday afternoon and all next weekend.
In all seriousness, if there is anyone around that has a few spare hours next weekend and can wield a spanner a wee hand here and there would go a long, long way. If you fancy it drop me a PM, many thanks in advance.
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This is brilliant!
My dads 90 just failed its MOT on rotten cross member and chronic oil leaks, was just about to put up a post asking has anyone done a chassis swap recently and i come across this!
Where are you based pal? Im up in Aberdeen, if your up this way i could potentially give you a hand.
Ally
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Where are you based pal? Im up in Aberdeen, if your up this way i could potentially give you a hand.
Hmm, may be a little too far, I'm south of Glasgow, thanks anyway
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Bert,
this link is for Ally defender, he is close to finnishing his.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-90-300tdi-strip-down-rebuild-158433.html (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-90-300tdi-strip-down-rebuild-158433.html)
it's good to follow :)
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Dave
I might be free, just waiting to see if i have to work, but i will let you know ;D
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That would be good, I'm at the lifting roof and tub stage so the more the merrier ;D
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Bert,
this link is for Ally defender, he is close to finnishing his.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-90-300tdi-strip-down-rebuild-158433.html (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-90-300tdi-strip-down-rebuild-158433.html)
it's good to follow :)
seems like "defender finger" is a common ailment! ;)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/5f184c78.jpg)
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ouch!!! :'(
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Hi Dave. sorry i am out, just broke my left collar bone. :(
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Plonker!
:)
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Dave,
I've been doing a bit of diggin and found the culprits for your chassis damage!
(http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad96/StephenOR/1e6f935b.jpg)
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Because of work and the rain I have only been out for a couple of hours today. Progress is visibly very quick today though, because we have done so much preparatory work loosening bolts and removing a lot then getting from looking (from the outside anyway) almost complete to this in about an hour and a half, it is a very big morale booster on a very wet and miserable day.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day61.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day64.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day63.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day62.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day67.jpg)
You can really see the dire condition of that cross member now andf how a stress crack is appearing right through the solid part of the metal.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day65.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day66.jpg)
Tomorrow should see the bulkead finished off, engine and gearbox out, and axles removed. Then the rebuild should start ................
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Looking good & great progress. Weather looks horrible in your recent photos.....
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A very very busy day today, engine, gearbox bulkhead and axles removed, time to start the rebuild, front axle and steering box on, although not without a struggle......... now then, what bit goes where....... :o :o:) :) :)
Many thanks to Ruari and Paul today, could not have got this far without them.
Aim for tomorrow, rear axle, engine, clutch and gearbox.............. hope I haven't set my sights too high.
Bulkhead is now with a very nice man who is going to make it as good as new..........
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day71.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day72.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day73.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day74.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day75.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day76.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day77.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day78.jpg)
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Absolutely brilliant, Ive been playing at rebuilding my series 2a for over a year now.
You've put me to shame :-[
Well done. Fantastic.
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well done, looking good
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Well thats the end of an exhausting weekend, very good progress made I think, certainly I am more than happy so far.
First job of the day was to correct a slight error with where I had put the springs and spacers on the front axle and put the rear axle on.
Next came the threading the loom through the chassis, we had really struggled with it yesterday, hitting loads of internal webs and almost loosing my CB ariel inside but today it went in within a few minutes! Next was the engine, clutch and gearbox, followed by the prop shafts, exhaust.
Finally it was a trip to see a man with a small pointy hammer who had been looking at my bulkhead and to return the engine hoist, thanks a million for the loan of that. The bulkhead really is shot and needing a lot work, or another from a different source! It was even possible to date it, there was a few old tax discs stuffed in it with a load of filler, there was no metal to go rusty at that point. :o :o :o
Progress is liable to slow a little now as we have visitors next weekend and sourcing/repairing a bulkhead, but then I have a full week off at the beginning of April to hopefully finish it off. ;D ;D
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day81.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day82.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day83.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day84.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day85.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day86.jpg)
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You have my unreserved admiration, very impressive, looking forward to seeing it back on the road.
Tommy
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+1
Dave, when you see the state of the old chassis makes you wonder how you ever got round the Lochgilphead forest without the car falling apart!
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Dave, when you see the state of the old chassis makes you wonder how you ever got round the Lochgilphead forest without the car falling apart!
Tell me about it, the pictures really don't show it all either.
Thats the old chassis gone to the scrapyard in the sky now, along with the old springs and rock sliders, a whole £41 back, better than nothing I suppose. It only weighed 200 kg, certainly felt a lot more than that when humping it about :) :)
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Just a couple of hours on it today, fitted new turret seats, steering damper, fuel tank and a couple of other odds and sods.
Ordered replacement bulkhead yesterday lunchtime from CWS (4x4 specialist breaker) near Yeovil, it was still attached to a landy at the time, surprise of my life when the delivery man is calling today saying "are you in I'm just on the way". At first inspection it looks ok, needs a can of paint but certainly a lot better than the one I took off!
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Amazing how it can work sometimes - I got a parcel of generator parts I ordered yesterday lunchtime, here at 2 pm today and again all the way up from Bristol.
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The last couple of evening after work have been spent changing over bits from my old bulkhead to the new, but nothing is straight forward is it. Even though it was off the same year defender as mine, its amazing how many differences there are, things like the clutch slave cylinder is on the opposite side and loads of brackets for relays and things just aren't there and the hole for the loom is just a few mm smaller so that the large plastic block from the under bonnet fuse panel wouldn't go through, so I'm assuming it was a 200 rather than a 300 tdi.
Now I have everything removed from my old bulkhead you can really see the rust now, bit beyond sensible/economic repair really for someone not able to do it themselves.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day91.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day92.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day93.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day94.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day95.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day96.jpg)
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I had to laugh last night, I was watching the new series of Wheeler Dealers, mike had bought an old Morgan that required a new chassis. They both spent most of the programme saying what a huge job it was, remembering he has all the tools and a nice warm dry workshop and doing it as his day job! I'm doing this on someone else's drive, luckily decent weather, in my spare time!
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Another few hours this afternoon, not a lot to see though. Reconnecting all the rear loom where we had to cut it to remove and doing a few bits to the bulkhead. Hopefully tomorrow will see big changes with the bulkhead going on and maybe the rear tub as well.
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Is that it nearly finished ..............
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day127.jpg)
OH Oh, not quite......
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day129.jpg)
A day of mixed fortunes today, sort of 1 step forwards, 2 steps back and 2 forwards .........
Started off very well, bulkhead in place and loosely fixed
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day121.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day122.jpg)
Then came today's lesson, and this could happen to anyone just changing the clutch slave cylinder ........
During the strip down I removed the clutch slave cylinder without disturbing the hydraulics, trying to make life easier, hmm that worked didn't it! ::) ::)
Whilst the engine and gearbox were out I then changed the clutch, release bearing and operating arm, so after the bulkhead was put in the first thing I wanted to replace the slave cylinder and check it all worked.
Then came the problems, it just wouldn't quite go in right, so as always if at first you don't succeed then read the instructions ..... in this case the Haynes Manual. It goes on to say that the push rod should remain attached to the operating arm, mine wasn't, it had remained in the slave cylinder. It is attached to the operating arm by a piece of plastic with a couple of clips which fit into the rectangular hole you can see in the picture below, which of course you can't see and is just over a finger length inside the bell housing so you can't even feel it. We were then sat there for over an hour, with one sat at the front looking back with a torch and guiding the other lying underneath the car, a bit like the golden shot, up a bit, left, down, right, push ........ no use, out with the gearbox, which was only out for literally 2 minutes to fit said bit of plastic and operating arm........ :( :(
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day126.jpg)
After getting the gearbox back in it all started going a bit better, on with the rear tub and sort through all the wiring, trying to find where everything goes, just glad its a TDI or it would be a real nightmare.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day123.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day124.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day125.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day128.jpg)
Another day of rest tomorrow to go to the Bathgate driving day, then Monday will be set my Gazebo up and get some paint on the bulkhead before ploughing on with the rest. It really is amazing how time consuming it can be just doing up a couple of nuts and bolts though, the day just disappears.
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A bitty but busy day today. Started off with a bit of painting, the bulkhead areas that will be visible and a few others that were badly bubbling and/or rusty. Baring in mind this was outside in April and out of a spray can (and the fact that I am hopelessy impatient ::)) it hasn't turned out too badly, especially as this will be used for off roading and not for shows ;D ;D
The other bits done today was windscreen back in (so it is almost weather proof now), and numerous other small fiddly bits like the steering column in the engine bay before the wings can go back on, and a bit of wiring round the back end.
Weather permitting, tomorrow should see either the dash going back in or brake pipes.
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Brrrrrrrr, its a little chilly out there today, just stopped for lunch and defrost. :o :o
Started off in the warm fitting new switches to the MUD console, although I could only stretch that out for an hour or so, then on with the winter woolies. Luckily it is quite a little sheltered from the wind and I am able to do "inside" bits, even though there are no doors or floor yet! Started off getting some of the dash back in and trying to sort through the wiring, it does need to change a little as I am moving the hazard flashers and heated window switches onto the MUD console.
Back to the cold again now ........... no sign of any of my trusty helpers today ::) ::)
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Another good productive day, and thankfully a whole lot warmer than yesterday.
Jobs today, started off with getting power onto the electrics to check the heater fan and windscreen wiper motors worked, these were already attached to the bulkhead when I bought it, thankfully they do seem to work ok. This also meant getting the seat box in place but not secured yet.
Then came connect up the brakes, a wee pointer here for anyone removing the bulkhead for the first time, take loads of piccies and make very, very, very good notes and drawings about how the brake pipes connect up. We had done a wee drawing and it just didn't seem quite right so it was over to the workshop manual and the piccies to check it all out, and the drawing was correct, just a little odd. For those that may not know, there is a pressure reducing valve in the hydraulic circuit which regulates pressure to the rear brakes, it just makes the connecting of new pipes a little more complicated than they may otherwise be.
So that was brakes fitted and bled and hopefully finished with now. Also tried to get the crank bolt undone, now we have brakes and gears, to get into the timing belt, it just isn't moving at all, are they normally this tight, using the trolley jack handle as an extension and it feels like the clutch is slipping rather than the bolt undoing?
Then came the wings and bonnet and running the wiring in to the front lights, only wee snag there is a plug, that looks like it has been plugged in, I just can't find anything to plug it into at the moment.
Towards the end of the day thought we may just see if it runs as well, fuel system primed but unfortunately there just isn't quite enough juice in the battery, very close to running but not quite, charge the battery and try again tomorrow.
Jobs for tomorrow, finish off round the wings, align the rear tub and secure that and the seat box and roof and play with the electrics, especially the wiring for the switches I am moving, needs to be unravelled and moved over.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day151.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day152.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/Day153.jpg)
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Amazing job you are doing and thank you for sharing it with us.
Crank pulley bolt will be VERY tight .......... and there will be alot of transmission wind up before you really load the bolt. I would suggest engage 3rd and not 1st people often tend to do. Not all will agree though. You may need to borrow a 3/4 inch breaker bar and socket (1/2 inch may not be up to it) and then slip a piece of scaffolding over the end of it.
Looks like you plan to start the engine and check all is well before doing the belt ............. good call ;)
Good luck and thanks again for the blow by blow bulletins.
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A really, really bad day today, started off ok, got the battery charged enough and engine started, ran great, that is when the troubles started.
As we have changed the clutch that was the next thing to test, all it did was rattle. After taking the gearbox out (again :'( :'() and a few phone calls it was soon apparent that when putting the new operating fork in, I had not put new slippers in, easy fix thought I ??? ???
Off to Taggerts to get new slippers and the wonderful clip (sh1t bit of uselkess plastic) fitted, gearbox back in and .......... just the same, seemed to work ok once after that it just drags and it sounds like the release bearing is rattling about. So, out =comes the gearbox, again, refitted everything, attached the slave cylinder and took as much care as possible (when heaving heavy lumps of metal about ??? ???). Tried again, seemed ok at first then just the same, and that is how i have left it for now.
Anyone that has any ideas please let me know as I am seriously p******ed at present.
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Better day today, you all know the first job on the list, gearbox out .......... again, think this must be about the fith or sixth time. At first a little worried as it looked like the release bearing and plunger were all in place properly when first withdrawn a little. So out with it completely, had a wee look at the old one and ......... you can guess what's coming ........... :-[ :-[ we could see the writing saying "flywheel this side". On the one hand I was a bit p******d off as one of my trusted helpers had done this bit (who had even done a clutch before so knew what to look for :o :o), but on the other hand, we now knew what was wrong. So all back together before lunch and working properly. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Carried on this afternoon with finishing off gearbox, seatbox etc and trying to align everything properly (roof, sides, tub etc). Also a look at some of the wiring, the main bits we needed to locate were for reverse light switch and fuel sender which I'm hoping I have now found, tomorrow try and sort the rest of the wiring around the dash and finish the dash off.
So a fairly productive day and sooooooo happy that the clutch is all sorted so easily. ;D
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"trying to align everything properly"
don't beat yourself up too much at this bit. Remember, Land Rover couldn't do it ;D ;D
Geoff
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Top work fella. This is coming along nicely.
Keep it up
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Another busy day today, trying to sort the electrics and fit the rest of the dash ........ taking far longer than I'd thought but I'm soldering everything and insulating with heat shrink, it's amazing how long it all takes.
So far I have managed to re fit the dash lower tray, re route and extend the cabling for the hazard and heated door switches, they are moving onto my MUD console, run the wire and fit new work light, fit new plugs for reverse light switch wiring, make up cables for switch illumination power and earth. Doesn't sound much does it, but it is just so time consuming, carry on again tomorrow and hopefully be able to virtually finish it off. :)
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Just a couple of hours today, front wheel arch eyebrow fitted, sump guard fitted, all front lights refitted and cabling extended slightly, bit more wiring completed around the dash and put some power on it to test fot the first time. Unfortunately that didn't quite go to plan, headlamps and tail lights all ok but indicators and hazard flashers have a problem, right ones don't work at all, still not bad for first attempt. ;) ;)
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I'm reading this blog and wondering where you get all the time. Or maybe your a sales rep for MUD consoles ;D
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Last week was my Easter holidays ;)
Got doors back today and a 3/4 inch drive and scaffold bar, so full steam ahead again Friday afternoon. :)
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This was a very short afternoon as the Disco 3 handbrake has been screaming for a few days and had to come first.
Once that was finished I had a very happy couple of hours, managed to hang one door, the rear tub needs to come forward about a cm I think, will try that tomorrow once the other door is on. I also had some major success, I got that damn crank bolt off. Secret for me was stick it in third (as someone had suggested) handbrake on, then using a 3/4 inch drive tommy bar, beat 7 bells of s**t out of it, and it worked, a sturdy 30mm spanner would work just as well. So timing belt changed ............. and it still runs ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
This was my first venture into this area for a timing belt change, for those in the same boat, here is what lies at each stage.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/fab3bbbf.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/0b260c7d.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/3cd72300.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/f2d95983.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/f1a39c0a.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/0e283a7c.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/Off%20Roading/Chassis%20change/f57f1eee.jpg)
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Cheers for the pics Dave, but you know I'll have questions as well! Lol
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Bit of a mixed day, 2nd door fitted, finished off the front end and refilled the cooling system. Unfortunately the water pump doesn't seem to be working, no pressure at all coming out of it. So, new water pump, thermostat and belt ordered, I'm hoping that will sort it all out. Thinking back, I had noticed that it was looking a bit yucky when I drained it all down and the heater had been deteriorating.
Jobs for tomorrow, get the rest tub moved forwards about a cm, then that can all be secured.
For anyone contemplating doing this, this is my approximate costs so far including VAT (hopefully not a lot more, and I haven't actually worked it out before doing this post) not all would be the same and I have done a few bits before starting the main job, such as most suspension bushes.
Marsland chassis 1248
Springs, shocks, 1inch spacers, timing belt kit, clutch, brake pipes, door repair kits, a frame bushes, 550
Tree slider 120
Nuts, bolts, washers, anti freeze, cutting discs, pullers and various other odds and sods from tool station and screw fix, probably around 150
Water pump, belt, thermostat 50
Horn 1
Bulkhead delivered 350
Paint 42
Brake hoses, steering damper, Suspension Turret ring, rear pads 88
Mud console switches 80
Work light 10
Fuel sender unit 20
Labour for door and seat box repairs 80
Coming to about £2789! :o :o :o :o :o Wow, thats quite a big number, but when you look at even eBay specialists, they come in at £2800 Plus VAT including springs and shocks or £2600 including VAT but using all of your old bits, just a few bushes, brake lines and hoses included. So looking at that, it's not too bad is it................ :) :)
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Well the end is definitely in sight, some more good progress today. With both doors fitted I was able to finally align rear tub, was struggling with that initially but then used an engine crane to lift all the weight of the roof and sides off it, so ened up fairly simple. So thats all doors fitted and aligned, seats fitted and perhaps more significantly, found the cable for the fuel sender unit at the back of the shed, and the plug it fits into.
So now this is the list of jobs left to do:
Fit water pump and thermostat (when they arrive)
Fit tree sliders (again awaiting delivery)
Fit horns, and grill.
Refit winch, modify wiring for interior switch operation.
Complete wiring for mud console.
Complete wiring in dash, finish fitting dash.
Fit wipers.
Tidy and secure all wiring.
Secure brake line from rear.
Fit head lining and interior light.
Fit tunnel and floor panels.
Fit rear brake disc shields.
And finally ........... Get it muddy, I'm sure the to do list will grow but the end is near!
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Facinating thread Dave, I think we all take our hats off to you, can't wait to see the finished product :)
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And finally ........... Get it muddy, I'm sure the to do list will grow but the end is near!
Would an organised "Treasure Hunt" at Drumclog suit?
Everything set out with a [moderately] standard Disco :D
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Absolutely
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That's the plan for the driving day at the end of May ;-)
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can't wait to see the finished product :)
Just don't expect the bodywork to look A1, I know what I'm going to do with it so am not wasting money replacing/repairing dented panels just now, just spraying sections that are corroding, but it will be good mechaincally. ;D ;D
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New water pump, thermostat and belt arrived today, all fitted and working just fine. It took longer to warm it up to get the thermostat to open than refit everything!
Horns also came today, just need to make up a bracket to fit them, they are certainly louder than the toot, toot of the old one ;D ;D
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Quite a good afternoon today, managed to get all the brake lines secured, used the small plastic clips for the axles that are held on by tie wraps, very neat and tidy. Winch is now back in place and cables run and secured although not connected. Also secured all the breather pipes whilst in a tie wrapping mood ;D ;D.
Next was the washer bottle, nice and straight forwards to replace and pump worked as well, bonus! ;) ;) Also made up a bracket for new horn, and a wee cable loom for it and fitted grill, so almost looking complete from outside.
Perhaps the longest job was putting the NATO hitch on the back. As its a TD5 rear cross member it only has holes in the rear wall with captive nuts. I really didn't like the thought of being recoverd, or recovering, using just a single skin, so I drilled through from the back with a small enough drill so as to leave the bolts intact, then drilled out to 12mm from the front of it and then used long bolts right the way through the cross member so it is tight on the captive nuts and then a plate over the bolts on the inside of the cross member secured with nuts ....... god that sounds complicated, but really straight forward as I'm sure you can imagine.
Straight into the electrics tomorrow morning, hopefully straight forwards ............... fingers crossed. ;) ;)
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A very good morning, just in for lunch and qualifying. I'd been putting the electrics off a bit, just a problem with the indicators but frustrating. Started off checking switch wiring, that was ok. Tried checking the voltages at each corner and the plugs were ok, but had very corroded connections into the lamp holders on two corners. Then a strange thing, phoned Taggarts to try and get new bulb holders, getting OEM bits from land rover, the front ones only come as a complete unit whilst the back as two parts, holder and lens. Went to get some, and they are identical bits but as I say, different ways of buying, can anyone explain that? Not too bad a pice either, less than 3 quib for the holder, so electrics all sorted now, just to finish off the dash now and that's virtually it!
So finished off the day refitting floor and tunnel. Tomorrow just need to find some screws for the dash then I may even be ready for a test drive!!!!!!!
Still loads of small bits to do but I think that is virtually back to being roadworthy again ;D
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Lots of securing lots of wee bits today, then changed the wheels and rear brake pads followed by the first venture out of the drive, wheels turned, nothing fell off, that was a bonus, brakes worked and steering ok from lock to lock.
After a spot of lunch it was a check round to make sure it all looked tight and complete (ish) then a trip to the garage and a chance to get it fully warmed up a bit of a run, all seems good.
Still loads of wee bits to do like door cards and fittings, headlining and stuff like that but its looking good for the GRR next weekend but without all the normal defender luxuries ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Great job Dave in under a month. Fantastic!!
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Ver well done ! Superb effort Dave. Looking forward top seeing it "in the Flesh".
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well done mate i take it nothing fell off lol ;)
cheers Bill
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Not yet....... and the back end felt connected :o :o don't get me wrong, there is loads left to do but it is working again and can be done slow time now. It certainly helped ticking off jobs before starting the change, like replacing the bushes, discs, wheel bearings etc.
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Great, well done you ve inspired many of us to try it ourselfs, been a great post to fallow,thanks for sharring.NOW your neibour can have their drive back.
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well done in getting it back on road as quick the small jops can be done as you go along
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So this is where I am
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/e17fcea1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/f24f9971.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff15/davetomlin/c81efe87.jpg)
Just waiting on tree sliders turning up along with a host of small clips and things, lots to stop me getting bored!
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Lookin great Dave!
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The pictures do flatter a little .......... errrr, a lot. The paintwork is quite tired but theres just no point making it really good at this time.
My landrover tag team started again yesterday, now this is roadworthy the Disco 3 suspension failed and because I sit on a sloping drive it "farts" to try and level so I am down at the front end and pretty much undrivable at present.
This resulted in a rush yesterday afternoon trying to get all the home comforts back in, things like door cards, roof lining, radio now that all the new clips are here.
So I think that is pretty much back to where I started, of course there are on going jobs that need doing, a bit of filler and paint on the drivers door, ands all the normal mechanical things to keep these going when playing in deep water and mud., and I'm still awaiting the tree sliders, hopefully next week for them. It now needs to earn its keep as my daily drive.
So it has been very satisfying, I only had one day of "what on earth am I doing?" I now know a whole lot more about Defenders and in particular my Defender.
For anyone thinking of doing this, remember it always costs a bit more than you may initially think, although at least I now know what little bits aren't quite right. You cannot take too many photos and notes, there were many times we refered back to pictures and sometimes we just didn't have the right one. Is it a difficult job, not really, just very big, you need a lot of room and plenty of time (although quite a few of my days were only friday afternoons and I didn't burn the midnight oil) and somewhere to get things like the engine hoist and for me a 3/4 inch drive for the crank pulley, most of the rest I bought as they would be helpful again in the future, all of this will add to your costs as will the millions of nuts, bolts and washers, heat shrink sleeving, etc etc etc.
I hope this helps someone who may be in the same boat I was, the old chassis was just rotten everywhere, it really isn't that difficult, time consuming yes, but to go and buy the same standard as I have now, and the little I would have got for this with the chassis it was on, I am certainly no worse off, and probably a bit ahead, I mean when have you ever bought a defender that needed nothing doing, even if it was only a few bits like brakes or toys?
Am I glad its over, of course, I can now go and play again. ;) ;)
Would I do it again ........ hell yes! ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Well it had a good run today, out past Inverary and back loaded with dive gear, only two wee problems found, heater fan won't run slow and horn isn't working. :D
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Well Done Dave - excellent job and you should be proud of what you've achieved. Will we see it out at GRR tomorrow?
Alan
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yup ;D
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Saw it this morning before the GRR,looks great Dave.
BrianT.
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Well after the GRR last weekend and the Tyro today my list of bits to finish and repair has grown .................... But only slightly. The cause of my wooly steering was found today at scruteneering (I don't think Dougie really believed me when I said thanks), a very worn drop arm ball joint, this sounds like another lesson I will be learning. It's a bit of a co-incidence really, whilst at Strathearn yesterday Dave showed me a neat wee tool, an upper bearing removal tool. Strange but I said I didn't need one ......... Well I didn't then. ;) ;)Also need to replace both track rod ends as well, then hopefully it will be a lot sharper, it may even improve my performance at the Tyros :o :o
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At least its nothing too major, I was speaking to a neighbour earlier in the week who just got two full pages of "FAIL" on his MOT :-(
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A good few jobs ticked off today, new ball joints on the track rod, still need drop arm ball joint then I can get tracking redone.
Freed up the NATO hitch, could not get the pin out but just tapping it each way and plenty of lub has freed it off.
Had a good check of horn wiring, there is a break somewhere hidden away so ran another cable in parallel to the original from behind the clocks to near the horn. It has now gone from a quiet "excuse me if it's not too much trouble" horn to a "get out of the way now" horn, :o :o
Also refitted cabling guards in the. Rear wheel arches and back corners internally. Another problem has cropped up, brake light switch stopped working sometime yesterday, so a new one needed.
The last job was to wire up the internal dash switch for the winch, I'd already done the internal end but had been putting off the outside to a nicer day. That turned out to be surprisingly easy, once the solenoid cover was off the connections were there staring me in the face, ready just to put a couple of connectors on. What was surprising was the cable entry into the solenoid pack was open, no packing or anything so the new cable just slipped straight through. It was a little dirty inside but not too bad considering what it has been through. A well worth while and easy mod I think, it means the winch is always available, I don't normally leave the wired remote in the car.
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Dave it was my brake light switch that stopped working yesterday omn the defender, so I have just ordered one from the bay ;D
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Attempted the drop arm ball joint today, bought the new Britpart extraction tool, so how hard could it be?
What an absolute pain in the a##e of a job to do. I had started to do some photos to use as a guide but gave up as I got more and more frustrated.
Started off quite simply and broke the ball joit union and tied the damper out of the way and the circlip and ball came out quite simply. I then attempted to use the tool to extract the upper cup, seemed to be going ok but the bolt thread had stripped. I then found a new bolt and tried again, seemed to be going ok but it turned out that the cooler had been pulled right through the cup, the cup was stuck solidly in the drop arm.
Next I thought, right let's simple undone the drop arm nut and pull the drop arm off. Tried a 32 and a 36 mm socket, of course it turns out to be a 34mm which I don't have.
Ok what now, I then started grinding through one side of the cup with a dremmel, took flamin ages and then tried a hammer and punch to get it moving, my thumb is now black and twice the size it should be >:( >:( So back to the dremmel and eventually managed to get through it and cup finally gave up and out it came.
From there it was very simple, new upper cup pressed in and new ball fitted and the rest just flew together. Just need to get tracked tomorrow and hopefully that's all there is to it.
Strange isn't it, do a complete rebuild and the worst job of all, a ball joint which really shouldn't be that difficult should it :o :o
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Hi great rebuild
Plan on re-chssieing mine soon and know that most of the bolt are kaput so my question is where did you get all your new nuts and bolts from as I don't want to but a cheap set and end up buying twice.
Oh and do you know the paint code to your vehicle as I have a lighter blue on mine and want o go the same blue as yours
Thanks
Gary
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For most nuts and bolts I used screwfix, bought a couple of packs of M6 and M8, at about 40mm I think, then cut down to the required length as I went with angle grinder, I was too tight to buy packs of different lengths as you will have loads left at the end, I certainly did only buying two sizes.
For the more specialised ones I used Allfix, on line but very good delivery, there are loads of these companies about, if you have time then you can compare prices, but they were reasonable and a simple website
http://www.allfix.co.uk/Products/Hexagon-Headed-Bolts-and-Fully-Threaded-Set-Bolts
For the paint code, if you are the same as me it isn't on the id plate so I phoned LR customer services with my chassis number and they have it on record.
I then used this place, again mail order, but a one stop shop for all you need.
http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/
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I've finally got my head around M6 and M8 etc but for the DIY end user I'd be easier if they called 'em by the socket size required rather than the hole size ! To me they'll allways be 10mm and 13mm !
and thanks, LR for putting 11mm headed bolts into the mix at spots where you can't see what the hell you are doing, like the wing/bulkhead join, just to add a bit of confusion.
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Well done Dave. Thanks for letting me know what lies ahead :o