SLROC Forum

Im sure this has been mentioned before on here but i couldn't find it

Im about to do some welding on my Chassis and was wondering what the best process of painting it would be? other than galvanization which i cant afford

Im wanting something which will be a good rust prevention and not chip badly when im off roading.

Tom

I used underbody seal made by waxoyl. It is absolutely brilliant stuff. It is painted rather than sprayed on, but lasts a lot longer than waxoyl alone. I then waxoyled over the top of this and into the hard-to-reach places.

I found a 5L tin of waxoyl and a can of under seal made my waxoyl in my dads shed yesterday which he got for his vintage car but never used I will use that then. perfect

I Might just use the Waxoyl for inside the chassis.

Is Waxoyl the best for the outside? or woudl i be better off painting it if so.

Would i be better off using a Acid etch primer or a red oxide primer?

And what would you recommend I use for a top coat?

Tom

Whatever treatment you decide on for inside the chassis,
 make sure all welding, bracket fitting etc is done before applying/filling
with anything..
There is always a chance of needing to weld again sometime before it is ready to go getting wet again.

Possibly the very last thing to do after the body is on, wiring, plumbing installed & the vehicle is tested etc.
By that time it should be nice and dry inside the chassis.

george

Ok will do mate

I think im going for a Industrial Etch Primer
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300597445480#ht_2278wt_1163

Then a top coat of this Chassis paint.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180589818410&var=480010922355#ht_536wt_1163

With a good thick coat of Waxoyl onside

Sorry Tom, I misunderstood - didn't realise your chassis was stripped down. In this case I would only use the underbody seal as the last coat. It needs to be primed and painted first as you are suggesting. If you can afford it, etch primer will last much better than normal red oxide and is much more resistant to stone chip. It only works properly when sprayed on. I've found on body work when using etch primer that patience is the key, starting with a very light mist coat only. Then a proper coat letting this dry thoroughly ? at least a full 24 hours. Key the surface with a 2-400 grit paper and apply the top coat. I?ve not done a chassis before, but a whole landrover takes about 6 litres when sprayed, so I reckon the 2.5 litre should be more than plenty for you.

Meant to add - the top coat you're suggesting looks like a polyurethane paint which is a good choice. Its very easy to use and can be brushed on if you want. Brushing on will take more paint. I'd leave this a month to fully harden before putting underbody seal or waxoyl over the top of it. Its not white spirit based like waxoyl so it will not be affected by it once hard.

Thanks there malc I will be stripping her down to the bare chassis soon as i get my hands on her