SLROC Forum

Basically the title says it all.  Its a Td5 90, and reverse is getting more and more difficult to select.  Any clues??

Cheers, Tom.

have a look at ashcrofts site they have a common problem list of cures, i would change the oil first for a good oil my disco box was getting notchy, i put synthetic oil from the difflock site in mine

what are the symptoms?
does it crunch?
does the gear lever just not move?

is it a manual? (i guessing so)

the reverse gear is not syncromeshed so if the layshaft is turning the gear will not engage without a lot of crunching.
if the layshaft is moving then the clutch is not working properly. (if the car is stationary)

the gear selector shaft is gated which means that a dowel inside the selector shaft must line up nicely with a fork selector in order for it to move through and allow selection of reverse. the gate might be worn etc etc.

and as has been said, check the oil type and level.

cheers

stephen

Is the clutch biting point at the floor? if so then its either out of adjustment (cable) or needing replaced. Are you having problems getting into first gear?
Drew.

Hi there is a grub screw that holds the cup on the selector shaft where the gearlever fits, it sometimes works loose and makes reverse difficult to engage.You need to remove gearlever at gearbox to find grubscrew, refit it with locktight.

It feels like the clutch is not disengaging properly. It eventually goes into revense, but there's a fair bit of crunching involved!  Also a problem in selecting 1st, although not quite as bad.
I have bled the slave cylinder, but it didn't make much (any!) difference.  Also, when in gear, the car creeps forward when the foot brake is released, kinda like an automatic. 
I'll check the oil level in the morning, but is there any way of adjusting the clutch biting point?

Cheers, 
Tom

Not if its a fluid system, (im not a land rover mechanic but the principles still apply) can you "pump up" the pedal ? if so then its air in the system, (which you have checked) or there is wear in the master or slave cylinder which will show up as a leak / weap behind the dust seal. You can get overhaul kits for both but at the price of new replacement parts I would fit new. if all looks ok then its probably a clutch kit you will need.
Drew.

Quick way to check master cylinder leak, look for brake fluid on the back of the clutch pedal, it worked for me on a TD5

Think I've got it sorted.  Bled the system (again), but that didn't help.  It turn out it was the adjuster at the master cylinder.  The nut & lock nut were miles away from the clutch pedal actuater thingy.  Tigtened it up a bit, leaving some movement.  Seems to ha sorted the problem.

Maybe get to play in the snow tomorrow after all.


Thanks to all who replied.


Cheers, Tom.