SLROC Forum

General Category => TECHNICAL CHAT => Topic started by: mudTerrain on August 10, 2016, 03:52:23 PM

Title: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 10, 2016, 03:52:23 PM
Hello,

  I've made a start on removing the body from my 110 Td5 as part of a chassis and bulkhead change.

  I've removed the hardtop sides and roof, all the doors and the seats so far - I've just cut off the ten bolts that hold the rear of the tub to the rear cross-member, but I can't see where the other bolts that hold the tub to the chassis are.

  If anybody can answer some questions for me, I'd be very grateful;

   What other bolts hold the body tub to the chassis and how do I get at them?

   How do I split the tub from the front seat-box?

  If anybody knows of one, can you point me to a decent how-to guide, please?  I can't find a decent one anywhere :(


  Thanks for any help :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on August 10, 2016, 06:42:52 PM
Dunno about the 110, but on my Ninety, there are 6 bolts holding the rear tub to the set box.
2 x on each side at the 'B' pillar which connect the rear tub to the seat box and the sill panels which extend along the outer edge of the floor panels.
There are also 2 x bolts in the middle of the tub front panel which pick up on two short sections of angle which in turn are bolted to the chassis crossmember (on the Ninety it is the same crossmember that the rear axle 'A' frame connects to.

I would imagine on the 110 there would be some extra fasteners around the area of the rear side doors.   
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 10, 2016, 08:09:09 PM
Hi Sandy,

  thanks for that - it certainly helps!

  Are there any bolts that go directly down from the tub into the chassis?

Thanks :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: weetoddy on August 10, 2016, 08:34:29 PM
Hi mate , there are no bolts directly from tub to chassis , you have the bolts from rear crossmember to tub ( the ones you cut off) there should also be a couple so stay bars from chassis to tub next to wheel arch, if it a 5 door then there are two brackets ( 4 bolts ) each side of chassis middle crossmember to tub and then there is the bolts from tub to seat box , if it van type then the crossmember brackets are at the seat box.

Hope this helps

Iain
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 10, 2016, 09:34:29 PM
Hi Iain,

  thanks very much for that - that's a great help!

  :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: piper5 on August 11, 2016, 09:03:29 AM
if you are doing a chassis change i would start at the front, lift the wings with radiator etc off, take floor pans/tunnel out lift bulkhead complete then lift the rear tub complete with cills and seatbox still attached.
van sides are easier than station wagons, if you have any rot on a station wagon body around the 2nd row door the tubs tend to bend and collapse when you lift them
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 13, 2016, 09:47:08 AM
Hi Piper,

  OK, thanks for that - I'd been debating whether to start at the front or the back, so front it is!

  You've almost certainly just saved me an awful lot of work, there, so thanks very much for your advice!

:)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 13, 2016, 06:44:54 PM
Hello,

  right - I managed to get the washer bottle, the heater and the heater ducting out from under the N/S wing - quite a pain in the R's, I have to say!

  The guide I'm following says the that wing is now held on with three bolts at the front, one at the top into the bulkhead and on at the bottom into the sill.  Can anybody add a bit more detail on how the wing is held on at the front, though, as I'm not sure the bolts I've found (at the top, into a bracket that's attached to the bonnet slam-panel) are the right ones.

  Any advice will be very gratefully received!

Thanks :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: piper5 on August 13, 2016, 07:46:38 PM
theres bolts down the sides of the rad i think. last one i did i lafte the rad and front panel on the wings. removed rad hoses unplugged behind lights, removed bolts between bulkhead and wings (pain) and lift whole front off as one bit
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 13, 2016, 07:50:17 PM
OK - thanks for that.

  Does the intercooler come off with the radiator?  What bolts need removing from the front-middle to get it to come away with the wings?

  Are the radiator/intercooler only attached to the bodywork, then?

Thanks :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: piper5 on August 13, 2016, 08:07:50 PM
havent done a td5 but i presume its very similar to the 300tdi and the rad/intercooler is bolted to the front panel and comes with the panel when the hoses are removed.
the whole idea is to lift as big a chunk in one go as you can. if you had a forklift etc you can lift the body in one go off the chassis
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 13, 2016, 08:31:18 PM
OK - there must be something holding the whole thing down at the front otherwise it'd just flap about when you drove over speed-ramps...I'll try to take it all off in one go and let you know how it panned out :)

Thanks for your help and advice :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on August 14, 2016, 07:32:53 PM
Dunno about your model, but on my 1985 Ninety  -  starting at the front, each wing is held by two bolts at the top onto the slam panel and at the bottom  front edge with two bolts through the inner wing onto the chassis (one in front of the rad/intercooler, and one that almost goes through the rad/intercooler!).
There is a bolt which joins the inner wing to an offshoot of the bulkhead/chassis bracket, and two bolts from the inner wing to a flat bracket sticking out of the footwell.
At the rear, there are the 4 bolts from the rear flange of the wing into the bulkhead 'A' pillar, and one bolt at the top on the flat section of the wing that goes via an 'L' shaped bracket into the bulkhead.   
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on August 15, 2016, 05:49:13 PM
Quote from: Sandy M on August 14, 2016, 07:32:53 PM
Dunno about your model, but on my 1985 Ninety  -  starting at the front, each wing is held by two bolts at the top onto the slam panel and at the bottom  front edge with two bolts through the inner wing onto the chassis (one in front of the rad/intercooler, and one that almost goes through the rad/intercooler!).
There is a bolt which joins the inner wing to an offshoot of the bulkhead/chassis bracket, and two bolts from the inner wing to a flat bracket sticking out of the footwell.
At the rear, there are the 4 bolts from the rear flange of the wing into the bulkhead 'A' pillar, and one bolt at the top on the flat section of the wing that goes via an 'L' shaped bracket into the bulkhead.

...and there is also an ACME type self tapper halfway down the radiator grille panel that fastens to the outer wing panel. :o
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 16, 2016, 09:16:54 PM
Hi Sandy,

  thanks for your help - I'm slowly finding that half the weight of my Defender must be bolts!

  For anybody interested, here's the story so far;

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3619.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/52)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3711.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/51)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3714.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/55)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3712.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/53)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3717.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/58)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3716.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/57)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3719.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/60)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3721.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/62)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3724.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/65)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3727.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/68)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3730.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/71)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3732.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/73)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3734.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/75)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3735.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/76)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3736.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/77)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3738.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/79)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3740.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/81)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3741.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/82)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3744.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/85)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3747.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/88)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3748.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/89)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3745.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/86)


...from the top left, then;

1) One of my neighbours has kindly given up one of his barns to the cause, so after a great deal of sweeping, here's my new after-work and weekend home...
2) The new chassis waiting patiently...
3) I started by taking the doors off...
4) ...and the rear door - glad I've not got a CSW!

5) Getting the roof off started with a chain-winch secured to the barn roof...
6) A bit of persuasion with a jack dislodged the seal above the windscreen...
7) Here's the roof perilously hanging loose...
8 ) ...and I just drove the Defender out from under it - job done :)

9) I can't be the only person to think "hey, that looks cool!" with no roof in it - the first time it rains, though, I expect it's not so cool...
10) Piper5 then pointed out that I was starting at the wrong end, so I took the bonnet off...
11) ...took the lights etc out...
12) ...and started removing all the gubbins under the N/S wing

13) This is where it started getting awkward - the washer bottle is held on with three bolts that go through the inner wing - all of then had rusted solid, so all of them had to be angle-ground off
14) The washer-bottle won't go past the suspension top cover, so that had to come off - to get at the screws, I had to take out all the turbo inlet pipework...
15) ...finally got the washer bottle out...
16) I decided to cover the turbo inlet, as it was obviously only a matter of time before I dropped something in it!

17) The next thing off was the wing-arch, which was a b@st@rd, as the plastic clips are VERY secure (I don't know why they didn't just build the whole vehicle using these!)
18) I might be a bit out of sequence here, but I took out the heater, which wasn't a difficult job...
19) ...plus the ducting under the wing - it need quite an enthusiastic bit of "manoeuvring" to get it out...
20) There are various philips-head screws that fix the inner wing to the chassis - all of the were rusted solid, so they all needed cutting off...

21) Inside the wing are the 4 bolts that fix it to the bulkhead - these were remarkably easy to get out, surprisingly!
22) The real b@st@rds are the two bolts at the bottom of the wings at the front - it took a whole evening just to get these out!

I'm still trying to release the wings - the bolts at the bottom/front secure them to a bracket that also holds the front panel - I can't see how it's fixed to the chassis, though, so I'm next going to remove the radiator and intercooler to get more room to see what's going on.  There's definitely two bolts at the top of the wings at the front into the centre panel, which are very difficult to get at and two half way up the wings at the front into the middle panel, which are nigh-on impossible to get at, because of the grill fixing lugs.

I'm probably going to remove the N/S wing on its own, but may remove the O/S wing complete with the front panel, depending on if I can figure out how it's fixed to the chassis.  Removing the radiator means removing the fan, so I'm stuck until the "special" viscous coupling spanner turns up from eBay...

Things I'm using that are making this job less of a PITA than it could be - a Makita impact driver, a box of latex gloves and a set of "face-driving" sockets...


Tune in later for more of the same :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on August 17, 2016, 08:47:23 PM
Good luck, quite jealous of the workspace!!

Mine is still spread about the garage and garden, but I am looking forward to bolting it all back together with nice new shiny bolts and rivets.



I decided at the start that any bolts would get a quick grunt with a spanner and if they resisted they met Mr Bosch and his carborundum disc.  Some did come off really easy but others had to be cut/ground off, which is not bad considering it was a 30 years old car. 
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 18, 2016, 09:00:23 PM
Hi Sandy - a very wise decision with the angle-grinder...it saves a lot of time, effort and swearing!

Another evening spent looking for the last few bolts holding the wings on;

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3759.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/100)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3753.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/94)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3750.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/91)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3756.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/97)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3751.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/92)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3752.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/93)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3754.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/95)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3749.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/90)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3755.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/96)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3758.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/99)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3757.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/98)

From the top left:

1) The arch and all the various bolts from the O/S inner wing have been removed - one undid (I framed it!) but all the others had to be cut out...
2) I had to take the snorkel off, but one of the captive bolts started spinning in the plastic, so I had to lever it out of the wing, doing it no favours :(
3) The vacuum servo that controls the EGR valve came off pretty easily.

4) I disconnected the wiring to the wing indicator and who knows what else...there's some sort of heat-sink bolted inside the wing.
5) Well done if you can make this out!  Here's the special vicious (viscous?) spanner undoing the fan, with a big screw-driver holding the pulley in place - this worked quite well (there's also a cr@ppy old bit of pipe extending the spanner handle here)...
6) Once the fan's out, the fan shroud can be removed...

7) There are two bolts up under the ends of the slam panel that hold the centre panel and the wings together, but also hold the radiator brackets in place - they actually undid!
8 ) The Haynes manual says to undo these two screws...another job for the angle-grinder, it turned out :(
9) The radiator comes out fairly easily, but it's awkward to lift without standing on the wings...luckily, I still have the chain-winch set up :)

10) This is just some gratuitous filth...no more bolts under here, though!
11) Here's where I called it a day - the wings are bolted to two brackets just at the rear of the wheel arches and they just don't want to shift!  I'd have to take the wheels off again to get the angle-grinder in, so that's a job for next time...

In theory, I should be able to lift the wings and centre panel out in one go with the winch once these last two bolts are out.

Can anybody describe how viscous the viscous coupling for the fan should be?  Mine's pretty much solid, so is it knackered?

More of the same to come shortly...

:)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 21, 2016, 10:53:52 AM
Some significant weight-reduction this time...

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3776.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/117)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3774.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/115)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3761.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/102)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3768.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/109)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3760.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/101)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3763.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/104)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3765.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/106)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3769.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/110)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3771.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/112)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3766.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/107)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3767.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/108)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3772.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/113)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3773.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/114)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3775.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/116)

...from the top left as usual:

1) I decided to unbolt the two slam-panel supports from the bottom - luckily the bolts undid easily, but it's probably too tight here to get them back in, so these need putting in place before the front panel goes on...better remember that!
2) The power steering reservoir had to come off the wing - one bolt sheared, the other had to be cut off...
3) The bonnet release cable was disconnected from the handle in the footwell and pulled through the bulkhead into the engine bay...
4) I discovered some sort of vacuum hose inside the N/S wing - luckily, it has a valve of some sort in it, so I could just separate it it.  These are my fair hands, by the way!  How did I manage to take this photo?  Well...I conned my girlfriend into helping me by saying something like "could you just come down and hold a spanner for me?"...little did she know, she'd end up standing on a ladder, hauling on a chain-winch while I tried to be both sides of the Land Rover at once, un-jamming and un-tanging things...
5) The good old chain-winch put to use again, lifting the wings and centre panel away in one go, as suggested.  I had to put the bolts back in where the front panel meets the wings to make sure it didn't all just flop apart.  I'd taken them out to remove the radiator support brackets.  The Haynes manual says something about "winding out a stud with two nuts" here - I can't see any studs, so presumably somebody did that in the past and didn't put them back...
6) A bit of gentle persuasion to un-stick the wing on the N/S...
7) ...and the same on the O/S...
8 ) ...and I discovered some wiring to the spotlights that I hadn't disconnected...
9)...so, with the wires cleaned, labelled and then cut...
10) ...the wings and front panel lifted away pretty easily, really!
11) Hmm..now what?
12) Well, I wheeled over the roof and dumped the whole section on the roof-rack - good old roof-rack :)
13) So there it is, wings off and ready to start stripping things off the bulkhead...
14) ...and I can admire my filthy, oily and mud covered(!) engine - I've already found a load of straw jammed in the alternator!

I think the viscous fan conundrum has solved itself - I laid the fan on the roof and, when I came back to it, there was (presumably) viscous oil everywhere, having leaked out of it, so I think it's done all the viscous coupling it's going to do...still, it's done 215,000 miles service, so I can't complain :)

Any suggestions as to what to do next would be welcome - my plan is:

Remove the master cylinder and brake pedal assembly
Investigate and remove the clutch pedal (assembly?)
Strip down and remove the dashboard and instruments (that will undoubtedly be a massive load of fun)
Remove the steering assembly

Hopefully, by that point, the bulkhead should be about ready to come out...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 21, 2016, 12:09:10 PM
I thought this might come in handy - it's a bit rough, but I'm pretty sure these are all the bolts and screws I removed to get each wing off - I've not shown teh bolts that hold the wings to the centre panel or the radiator brackets, though...

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/defend10.png) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/118)

Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 23, 2016, 07:51:15 PM
Is it just me, or are the evenings starting to draw in?

...I had to get the spotlight out to do this lot:

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3797.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/139)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3796.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/138)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3778.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/120)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3781.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/123)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3779.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/121)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3782.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/124)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3780.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/122)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3783.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/125)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3785.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/127)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3787.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/129)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3786.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/128)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3789.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/131)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3792.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/134)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3791.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/133)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3790.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/132)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3793.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/135)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3794.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/136)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3795.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/137)

From the top left again:

1) I decided to start by getting the airbox out of the way...an easy job, I thought.
2) The nearest air-hose clip had rusted away to nothing, so wasn't going to come undone...
3) ...so I had to undo the next one, buried behind the engine.
4) With the persuasion of a very large screwdriver, the airbox popped out of its rubber mounts...
5) ...leaving the tray, which is fixed to the bulkhead by three rubber mounts/bolts.

6) They decided to put up quite a fight, so had to be cut off...
7) ...but, tray out, onto the next job; draining the brake fluid in preparation for removing the brake pedal assembly.  Both front bleed screws were rusted in and rounded off, but luckily I had this set of flower-shaped sockets that did a brilliant job getting one screw undone.
8 ) With a one-man bleeding kit fixed to the nipple, I just pumped out the fluid using the brake pedal (the hose split at one point, hence the fluid on the caliper...)
9) Next, I disconnected the brake fluid level sensor...
10) ...made a note of which brake pipe went where...

11) ...and tried to disconnect the brake pipe unions - one of them started to round off, so I just cut the pipe - I'm planning on fitting all new brake pipes, anyway...
12) The next job was to remove the wiring from the back of the brake servo, but this bracket partially covers it...
13) ...so I removed it...
14) ...and getting at the wires on the back of the servo was much easier.
15) The brake pedal assembly is held onto the bulkhead with these six bolts...

16) ...which had been soaking in penetrating oil for three days, so came out fairly easily, releasing the pedal but, like an idiot, I'd left the servo assist hose attached...
17) ...which put up a fight, so got cut off...new hose needed here, then.
18) Ta-da!  No brake pedal.  The Haynes manual says something about retrieving the rubber seal between the servo and the bulkhead...ah...ha!  Perhaps they should think about revising their manuals for vehicles with more than just delivery mileage on them...

That all went remarkably well, so I'm quite optimistic about removing the clutch pedal next!

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 27, 2016, 01:15:48 PM
Now onto the fiddly stuff - the pace of taking things apart has somewhat slowed down, now...

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3100.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/147)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3799.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/146)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3812.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/142)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3813.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/143)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3816.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/150)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3815.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/149)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3818.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/152)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3814.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/148)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3819.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/153)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3820.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/154)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3823.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/157)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3821.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/155)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3822.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/156)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3824.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/158)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3825.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/159)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3826.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/160)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3828.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/162)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3827.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/161)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3830.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/164)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3831.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/165)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3832.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/166)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3829.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/163)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3833.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/167)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3835.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/169)

I've obviously gone a bit mental for taking pictures here!

1) Before I could take the clutch pedal out, I had to drain the clutch fluid, which is done the same way as the brakes; with a bleeding kit on the clutch slave-cylinder bleed nipple, I pumped all the fluid out using the pedal.
2) The clutch fluid pipe unscrewed from the master cylinder pretty easily...
3) ...which just left undoing the six bolts in the footwell.
4) There are three wiring connectors to disconnect from the pedal bracket in the engine bay...
5) ...but that done, the pedal lifted out fairly easily, although the foam gasket has had it...
6) Not sure what the story is here - I removed the expansion tank and had to angle-grind out this bolt, though!

7) The accelerator pedal is held on with two bolts and nuts in the engine bay.
8 ) When it drops off,, the cover also falls off and the wiring connector can be unclipped.
9) The last few things attached to the bulkhead are this voltage regulator thing...
10) ...and the roll-over switch.
11) There was no avoiding it anymore, so I had to make a start on the dashboard etc...
12) The steering column shroud etc came off fairly easily...

13) ...and the instrument binnacle is easy to remove.
14) The passenger JC handle is held on with screws in largely random positions...
15) ...but comes off easily.
16) Getting at the screws along the top of the dash is awkward because of the windscreen...
17) ...so I unbolted it at either end and lifted it off with the good old chain-winch - certainly getting my money's worth out of that!
18) Does it look cool with no windscreen?  I'm not sure...

19) The bulkhead is "effed" to use a technical term - the entire top disintegrated as the windscreen came away...
20) ...but now I could get the top of the dash fascia off.
21) I got rid of the radio...
22) ...and made a start on the wiper motor, which is at the far passenger-end of the dash.
23) There's a nut under that black rubber shroud that holds a long worm-screw type cable in place...
24) ...that just pulls out when you remove the motor - the wiper arms spin round as you withdraw it, which is weird if you're not expecting it...

  To get the lower dash out, I need to remove the grey trim above it, but the plastic clips are quite difficult to get at, so I'm off to Halfords to get one of those special fascia-clip removal tools to make life easier.

  The bulkhead is properly knackered - it's rusted completely through all along the top where the windscreen sits, behind the heater and behind the brake servo.  The driver-side door pillar has been welded in the past and that's started bubbling up again, so I'm not sure it's salvageable in any realistic way.  The footwells are mostly OK, but there's a hole by the transmission tunnel in the drivers-side...good job I'm replacing it, really!

  I reckon I'll have the bulkhead out by next weekend!  (famous last words...)

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 28, 2016, 08:01:14 PM
More fiddly, awkwardness taking the dash apart:

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3862.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/196)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3838.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/172)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3863.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/197)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3841.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/175)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3840.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/174)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3843.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/177)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3844.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/178)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3839.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/173)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3837.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/171)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3848.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/182)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3849.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/183)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3847.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/181)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3850.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/184)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3852.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/186)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3851.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/185)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3853.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/187)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3854.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/188)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3858.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/192)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3860.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/194)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3861.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/195)

So what's going on here?

1) The first job was to get rid of the grey upper trim, which is fairly awkward to remove once all the grey clips fastening it to the bulkhead have been broken...
2) I decided to remove the instrument binnacle surround next, which is held in place with four screws.
3) The binnacle bottom tray unscrews first...
4) ...then the binnacle surround is removed.
5) The next job is to remove the various things in the way of removing the lower-fascia tray/insert, starting with the windscreen air ducting...

6) ...then the vent lever...
7) ...which is fixed to the vent-flap with two 8mm bolts.
8 ) Next, I removed this little switch cowling.
9) You can see the clips at the side away from the bulkhead that hold the insert in place...
10) ...and, once it's removed, you can see the main looms underneath, one wrapped in purple tape and the other in orange tape.

11) There are two bolts that hold the lower dash fascia in place - one here behind the purple loom...
12) ...and one here behind the orange loom.
13) Once they're out, the lower dash-fascia drops away from the bulkhead...
14) ...leaving just the wiring to the switches by the drivers door to disconnect...
15) ...and a heater cable that directs the airflow to your feet - this could be disconnected inside the lower fascia, but that looked awkward...

16) ...so I disconnected the cable from the heater controls, instead.
17) There you go - lower fascia-panel gone, just leaving all the wiring hanging...
18) Next job is to remove the upper dash plate/sub-frame, which mainly unscrews...
19) ...but this brace between the steering-column and the bulkhead needs to be unbolted and the top bolt can't be removed past the back of the windscreen-wiper pivot...
20) ...which means removing the wiper-arms and wiper-arm mounts, but these are held on with grub-screws that rusted in a good hundred-thousand miles ago, so I needed to go and get my cobalt drills...which were at home, so that was that for the day...

I can see I'm going to have to feed the wiring through the bulkhead so that the bulkhead can be removed, but which way is best to do it?  Feed all the wires from the cab into the engine-bay or cut/disconnect the looms and feed them back through into the cab?  Both ways look like an almighty pain the posterior...

I can very clearly see now that nobody on the Land Rover design team ever once stopped to say, "hang on, that might rust and end up impossible to remove..."  Mind you, I suppose there are chaps out in the Sahara Desert shrugging and wondering what  the problem is..."ما هو هذا الشيء استدعاء الصدأ؟" I expect they're saying...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 31, 2016, 10:17:58 PM
People often say that one of the best features of the Td5 is its complex and copious wiring - read on, and you'll see just how right they are...

(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3864.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/198)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3869.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/203)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3868.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/202)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3865.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/199)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3873.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/207)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3867.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/201)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3874.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/208)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3870.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/204)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3875.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/209)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3878.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/212)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3877.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/211)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3879.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/213)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3880.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/214)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3881.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/215)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3884.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/218)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3885.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/219)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3886.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/220)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3887.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/221)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3888.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/222)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3891.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/225)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3890.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/224)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3894.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/228)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3893.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/227)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3892.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/226)
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3889.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/223)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3896.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/230)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3897.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/231)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3899.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/233)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3101.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/234)(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3895.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/229)

1) Having drilled out the grub-screws holding the wiper spline mounts on, they still wouldn't come off, despite much hitting with a hammer, so I've left them for the time being...
2) Back to stripping out the electrics behind the dash, starting with the relays...
3) ...then this green box thing...
4) ...then the wires on the back of the ignition switch.
5) At this point, the whole loom can be hung over the other side of the steering column, tidying it up nicely...
6) I decided to feed the heater cables through the bulkhead into the engine bay at this point.

7) Next, I started feeding the loom through the passenger-side of the bulkhead back into the cab - I phoned the company who are selling me my new bulkhead for their advice and they said trying to feed the loom through the other way was far more difficult.
8 ) So that I could see the wiring looms more clearly, I decided to remove the transmission tunnel, which is only held in with a few screws...
9) ...but it wouldn't lift out past the handbrake...
10) ...so I disconnected the cable...
11) ...and unbolted the lever from the seatbox.  The Haynes manual says the lever can be removed at this point. but it's still attached by the cable as far as I can see...
12) ...but the PTO lever extension still stops the transmission tunnel from lifting clear...

13) ...the PTO lever extension is bolted to the PTO lever itself just under the removable centre floor section...
14) ...and, once unbolted, it can be pulled out into the drivers footwell.
15) NOW the transmission tunnel can be removed...
16) Back to the loom - two looms pass alongside the gearbox in the passenger footwell...
17) ...go over the top of the gearbox and come out in the electronics bay under the drivers seat.
18) There's a fusebox under here, too - the wiring can be unplugged from the bottom of it, though...

19) ...except for the main power feed...
20) ...which has to be unscrewed from the top.
21) Now the fusebox can be removed...
22) ...clearing the way to unclip the various relays.
23) Now the two looms are free from the relays etc...
24) ...they can be fed back through the electronics bay side, onto the top of the gearbox.

25) The red-ended loom has a connector just the other side of the electronics bay that needs to be disconnected to free it...
26) ...the black-ended loom also has a connection to this green relay that has to be unplugged...
27) One of the looms, I can't remember which, has these two plugs fixing it to the gearbox in the drivers footwell...
28) ...and then the black-ended loom has this earth connection in the electronics bay that needs to be unbolted - there's evidence that electrical fairies have been at work in here, which various unidentifiable splices etc having been added at some point in the past...
29) Both looms are now free to be fed back over the top of the gearbox...
30) ...but there's no way in Hell they're going to fit through the gap between the gearbox and the seat box, which was a bit of a pain in the @rse to discover, to say the least.

So, it seems the next job is to remove the seatbox or, if it looks do-able, lift the entire rear-tub and seat box as one unit - either way will require the wiring to the batteries to be fed back out, onto the gearbox and those electrical fairies have enthusiastically added to the wiring under the passenger seat, making it quite a challenge to separate the seatbox from the cab...

I'll bet anybody out there with a Series is dead jealous of all this wiring!

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 01, 2016, 09:11:24 PM
Right; I've decided to take the seatbox out separately from the tub - it's obviously very rusty, so needs "looking at" (i.e. with an angle-grinder) - here we go, then:

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3818.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/245)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3811.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/237)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3814.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/240)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3813.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/239)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3812.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/238)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3815.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/241)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3810.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/236)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3817.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/243)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3816.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/242)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3910.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/244)

1) To get the seatbox out, I'll have to feed the remaining wiring out of the under-seat bays and onto the gearbox, starting with these last relays (actually, one of them's a "voltage sensitive switch"...ah, yes, one of those...)
2) There it all goes - byeee!
3) Here's the electronics bay under the passenger seat where the batteries live - nicely "enhanced" bit of wiring!
4) There are three sets of wires that need to be fed back out of the bay - the thick battery negative cable...

5) ...the thick battery positive cable and a couple of thinner cables that feed through the front of the seatbox, into the passenger footwell.
6) Last time, I couldn't figure out how the handbrake lever came away from the cable - it turns out it just needed pulling harder...
7) This is one of the bolts that hold down the front of the seatbox - not only was it rusted in and rounded off, it eventually sheared after a good three minutes of fighting with it.  I took a picture of it, because I thought this should be Land Rover's official logo...well...I was a bit peeved at this point....
8 ) These are the bolts that hold the seatbox to the rear tub...

9) ...and this is one of the nuts behind it - it's held in place by a captive cage, but that obviously turned to rust many thousands of miles ago, meaning the bolts are impossible to remove...
10) ...unless you take an angle-grinder to them - good, I was missing using it...

The rest of the bolts along the back of the seatbox all come out fairly easily, but the seatbox seems to be sprung slightly against the tub, so all of them needed a smack with a hammer to get them free once the nuts were off.  The seatbox seems to be mostly free, so the next job is to starting lifting it and see what's still holding it in...hopefully nothing (ha!).

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on September 01, 2016, 11:33:14 PM
Quote from: mudTerrain on September 01, 2016, 09:11:24 PM
Right; I've decided to take the seatbox out separately from the tub ..... but the seatbox seems to be sprung slightly against the tub...... so the next job is to starting lifting it and see what's still holding it in...hopefully nothing (ha!).

Cheerio :)

I take it you have already removed the two bolts holding the front edge of the seat box to the two raised brackets sticking up from the main chassis rails ?  if you haven't taken them out already, put a new disc in the grinder  8)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 02, 2016, 09:09:08 PM
Hi Sandy!

Thanks for the warning - one of those was the bolt that sheared on me in the end...but not to worry; there turned out to be plenty of other bolts that needed the gentle caress of the grinder...

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3911.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/246)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3914.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/249)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3915.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/250)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3913.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/248)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3916.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/251)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3919.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/254)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3917.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/252)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3918.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/253)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3920.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/255)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3922.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/257)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3921.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/256)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3923.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/258)

It's all getting a bit serious, now...

1) This was my plan then - good old chain-winch to the rescue, lifting the seatbox out nice and easily...
2) ...but I hadn't reckoned on the seatbelts being bolted through the seatbox, into a bracket that's fixed to the tub...
3) ...so they had to come off - now, there's a bit of a clue in this picture, but see if you can guess how I "removed" the seatbelt bolts...
4) Once I started lifting the seatbox, it became obvious that I was also trying to lift the whole Defender by these brackets, so I had to release it all, unhook them and then...

5) ...up the seatbox came...
6) ...and even further up, so I could back the Defender out from under it.
7) Now I can get at all the wiring...
8 ) ...and the bolts that hold the tub down on the N/S...

9) ...and the O/S.  I don't doubt you can remove the seatbox and the tub together, but it must be a proper pain in the @rse to do!  You can see the quality Lidl's "rust dissolver" I'm using in this picture - as the majority of my Defender remains undissolved, I can confidently says its action is less dramatic than one might hope for...
10) That all went so well, I felt a bit guilty packing up for the night early, so I attacked the steering column - it all actually unbolted and then fell off!  I near enough fell on the floor in shock!
11) I removed the plate that secures it to the bulkhead in the hope that some massive hole would appear, allowing me to pass the steering column through the bulkhead forward, thus meaning I didn't have to remove the steering lock...
12) ...but that was wishful thinking, so the next job is to try to tap around these bolts with a punch until they come free - that sounds like fun...

After the steering column, the next job is the two brackets that secure the bulkhead footwells to the chassis and the bracket that holds the clutch hydraulic pipe in place - that looks like being a bit of a pain...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 03, 2016, 09:18:13 PM
Right - a bit of an epic this one, but bear with me - you'll never guess what happens in the end!

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3928.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/263)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3929.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/264)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3927.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/262)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3930.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/265)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3925.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/260)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3926.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/261)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3931.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/266)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3935.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/270)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3934.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/269)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3933.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/268)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3936.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/271)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3932.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/267)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3938.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/273)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3937.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/272)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3939.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/274)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3941.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/276)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3940.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/275)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3942.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/277)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3943.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/278)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3944.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/279)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3945.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/280)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3948.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/283)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3946.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/281)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3947.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/282)

1) The first job was to use a punch to tap round the shear-head nuts that hold the steering lock/ignition on - the various write-ups I'd seen on this said it was dead easy to do...
2) ...so I must have been doing it wrong - I couldn't get them to shift at all, but after a couple of minutes under the cobalt drill bits, both bolts gave up the ghost.
3) Next job was to split the steering shaft - this proved tricky, as the intake ducting kept getting in the way...
4) ...so I shifted the duct to get at the bracket...
5) ...and attacked the bolts with the good old grinder.
6) Now I had some room to wedge open the spline coupling in the driving shaft...

7) ...and a couple of smart taps with a hammer saw it fall apart.
8 ) I'd already freed up all the mounting plates and brackets, so the steering shaft came out with less drama than I was expecting.
9) Now I could finish unclipping the various wiring connectors that were still attached to the bulkhead.
10) There are two connectors that need to be unclipped just on the O/S of the transmission tunnel...
11) ...and then these three that were attached to the brake servo bracket - they're colour-coded, so reattaching them should be straight forward...
12) Back to the clutch slave cylinder connection - this went mammary-glands vertical and no mistake!  The pipe had rusted to the union bolt and sheared as I unscrewed it, then the connection itself had rusted to the bracket and had to be hack-sawed off...

13) The next job was to remove this steering-shaft bracket...
14) ...and the two bolts securing the bulkhead footwell to the chassis bracket.
15) I didn't even try to use a spanner here - the steering bracket came off with the angle-grinder...
16) ...as did the driver-side footwell bracket bolts...
17) ...and the passenger side ones.
18) The bottom corners of the bulkhead are secured to the forward outrigger with a huge bolt, which came out fairly easily on the driver-side...

19) ...and the passenger-side.
20) Now came a really tricky one - I realised at this point that the bulkhead is fixed to the sill with three bolts - this one...
21) ...this one right up underneath the sill and one in the front.  They're all fixed in place using captive nuts inside the outrigger - obviously, these have long since rusted away and, while you can get at two of them...
22) ...the one right in the corner is impossible to get at - the back is too shallow to get a spanner or a set of mole-grips on...plus, it's round!  My solution was to drill diagonally into the bolt with increasingly larger bits until the head came off - I vigorously questioned the legitimacy of this bolts parentage at great length while doing this - the other side was even worse!
23) There's a screw the goes down through the footwell, but it hols a diagonal bracket in place that I'd already unbolted from the sill.
24) So...all bolts out - check!  All wiring clear - check!  Chain-winch attached - check!  Girlfriend persuaded to take charge of chain-hauling duties - check!  Time to start lifting...

My plan was to lift the bulkhead with the looms attached - I'll swap the loom into the new bulkhead when I get it...

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3951.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/286)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3952.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/287)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3953.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/288)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3950.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/285)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3954.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/289)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3949.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/284)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3955.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/290)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3956.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/291)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3960.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/295)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3958.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/293)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3959.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/294)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3957.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/292)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3961.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/296)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3962.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/297)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3965.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/300)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3963.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/298)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3964.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/299)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3966.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/301)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3967.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/302)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3968.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/303)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3971.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/306)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3970.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/305)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3969.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/304)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3972.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/307)

1) I used the heater and steering-shaft holes to lift the bulkhead...
2) ...being careful not to damage the wiring-looms on the inside.
3) The bulkhead needs a bit of persuasion to clear the sill and the outriggers...
4) ...as it's all a bit tight and over-lapping...
5) ...but, with a bit of tension on the lift, the bulkhead comes away fairly easily.
6) It became clear that there was a connector under the gearbox that was holding one of the looms in place...

7) ...the connector's here under the handbrake somewhere...
8 ) ...which, in case you didn't know...is on the driver-side of the gearbox.
9) My Defender has some sort of auxiliary fusebox attached to the bulkhead, which needed removing.
10) Everything finally free, we started lifting again...and discovered an earth-strap bolted between the chassis and the driver-side footwell...
11) ...which is fixed with a brass nut, so undid remarkably easily.
12) Lifting the bulkhead out was all so exciting, I didn't take any pictures!  Instead, here's yours truly having a bit of a think...possibly considering the purpose of rust in the grand scheme of things...

13) We dumped the bulkhead on a handy trolley...
14) ...and my girlfriend went crazy for taking pictures of it - here's a rusty bulkhead...
15) ...here's part of the same rusty bulkhead...
16) ...here's more of the same rusty bulkhead...
17) ...here's where the bulkhead used to be...
18) ...and, er, here's that rusty bulkhead again - photogenic, isn't it?

19) So, bulkhead out and engine on view...
20) ...I started recovering various parts off it, starting with these sill brackets...
21)  and then the transmission tunnel surround...
22) ...which is totally knackered, so new one required there.
23) Buoyed up with enthusiasm, I made a start on the bolts that hold the front of the tub to the middle outriggers - they were a pain in the @rse to get out and used up all my reserves of enthusiasm, so I called it a day, there.
24) Just for the fun of it, I stood in the back and took a picture forward - it's not looking very drivable, these days, is it?

There you go then - I said I'd get the sacrificial anode...I mean bulkhead...out by the weekend and b*gger me if I didn't manage it!  Dare I say I'll have the tub off by next weekend?  That really might be a bit optimisic - hopefully, I've not misunderestimated the amount of work required...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 08, 2016, 09:14:28 AM
Well, it turns out getting the tub off isn't a quick job...

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3996.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/331)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3973.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/308)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3974.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/309)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3975.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/310)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3978.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/313)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3988.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/323)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3977.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/312)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3989.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/324)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3990.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/325)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3983.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/318)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3986.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/321)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3994.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/329)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3995.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/330)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3992.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/327)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3998.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/333)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3979.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/314)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3102.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/337)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3982.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/317)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3101.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/336)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3104.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/339)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3103.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/338)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3999.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/334)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf3105.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/340)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4010.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/342)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4011.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/343)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4013.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/345)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4016.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/348)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4015.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/347)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4014.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/346)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4017.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/349)

1) My Defender is ex-electric board and has these cool side lockers...
2) ...which are held on with two bolts down through the sill (not the two you can see in the outrigger)...
3) ...two bolts to a bracket on the outrigger...
4) ...and two bolts to a bracket off the chassis, at the back of the locker - grinding them all out was noisy, as I had to do it from inside the lockers...
5) I'd decided by this point to separate the sills from the tub, but there's a bolt behind this large bracket (that held the seat-box) that's impossible to get at or undo "conventionally"...

6) This bracket is held to the sill at two points - this is one of them...
7) ...and, if you have them, by the foot-step stay, which is bolted into the chassis.
8 ) The seat-box bracket comes away fairly easily with the foot-steps...
9) ...and you can get at the last bolt holding the sill to the tub.
10) Next, are the seatbelt brackets...

11) ...which bolt through the tub to a stay securing them to the chassis.  Only the outer of these two bolts needs to be ground away, as the inner bolts secure the brackets to the tub only.
12) I was a bit mystified by the sills not having dropped off, but discovered a row of rivets behind a seal, holding the bottom edge of the lockers to the sill....
13) ...oh, and there was a bolt through the wheel-arch into the sill, but this sort of popped off through the plastic arch, of its own accord, shortly after this photo was taken  ::)
14) So there we go - I've chased the bodywork back as far as the tub, now.
15) Now for the really filthy cr@p just forward of the rear cross-member, starting with the mud-flap brackets, which are bolted to the chassis.

16) There are two stays (one either side) that fix to the bodywork with recessed bolts - I ground one side out and realised that a) it was stainless and would have undone and b) grinding it out knackers the bodywork, as the bolt-heads are recessed.
17) I found the fuel-filler pipe was easiest to disconnect at this point - I then stuffed it full of paper towel to stop any of the large quantity of countryside still stuck to the inside of the bodywork going down the hole.
18 ) There's also a breather-pipe to remove from the filler neck - it undid and pulled of quite easily.
19) Next was the wiring to the rear lights - there was a connector here, but it doesn't seem to serve any logical purpose, as it just connects part of the loom to itself, so is no help in separating the lights from the loom.
20) Instead, I had to delve under the light-covers in the back of the tub...

21) ...disconnect everything and feed the wiring back down into the wheel-well - actually, only one of these sets of wires (per side) needs passing back down into the wheel-well...
22) ...but you have to disconnect all the lights to do it.

...at this point, I was feeling pretty pleased with how things were going - I couldn't start trying to lift the tub because I couldn't get at the chain-winch, which was because...

23) ...the farmer had left one of his tractors in the way and I didn't fancy moving it without him around (a bit of blatant tractor porn for you here - an unrestored and still used Massey Ferguson 35!)...

...so, I decided to have a bit of a fiddle with the front bumper, just to see how difficult it was going to be to get it off - this did not go well...

24) The bumper is held on with four enormous long bolts that go in from the top...
25) ...and, in case you're wondering how I'm keeping track of all the bolts, here's freezer-bag number 72, with a post-it note inside it telling me what it contains - I have a whole 32 litre crate of these, now!

26) As I undid the bolts, though, it suddenly became obvious that the bumper and winch were falling off - they weigh, I reckon, about 100kg together, so there was no way I was going to either hold it in place or put it back, so I quickly rolled the chassis* forward and tied it to the chain-winch, as there was enough room to do that, just!
27) Now I was committed to getting the bumper off, as I couldn't leave it chained to the roof(!), but it wouldn't lift over the front bash-plate, as it hooks over it and the chassis stops it lifting far enough - also, the winch was fixed in place on one side by the prop-shaft that drives it.

...I had a bit of decision to make here, as I had to disconnect the winch from the prop-shaft somehow.  I'd spent about an hour grinding off the bolts that held the bash-plate on and, despite a lot of investigation, I couldn't see a way of separating the prop-shaft from either the PTO or the winch.  By this point, the sun had long since gone down and I kept losing tools in the dark - I could either cut through the prop-shaft to free the winch...

28) ...or I could undo these four bolts and, hopefully, withdraw the drive mechanism from the winch with the prop-shaft intact.
29) Guess which choice I went for...
30) That was definitely the wrong choice - I should definitely just have cut the prop-shaft...bl00dy oil went everywhere as the drive mechanism came out of the winch and, the more I tried to catch it in bowls and with paper towels, the more it rose to the challenge and covered everything, like some sort of evil, oily emulsion-creature.  Oil was everywhere, on me, on my tools, all over the floor, everywhere...bugger :(

Still, at least the bumper's off, although what I'm going to do with it next is anybody's guess - it's exceptionally heavy and unwieldy - the front tyres must think I've taken the engine out!  After that debacle, I'm not going down there tonight, though...I think we need some time apart, Land Rover...it's not you, it's me...I'll call you on the weekend, honest...

Cheerio :)



*When does a Land Rover go from being a vehicle to being just a chassis?  When the last bodywork's been taken off?  Am I changing the chassis and bulkhead of my Land Rover or am I building a new Land Rover from bits of the old one?  If I have to change the dashboard and the seat-box too, I think this is all going to go a bit "Ship of Theseus"...
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 11, 2016, 04:34:53 PM
I couldn't stay away for long - I started going into rust-withdrawal...

I've decided to split this into two parts - first, some "filling-in" activities, while I was waiting for some help with the "main event", below...

...those of a mechanically sympathetic nature may wish to look away at this point...
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4022.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/354)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4023.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/355)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4021.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/353)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4020.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/352)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4018.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/350)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4019.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/351)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4024.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/356)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4025.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/357)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4027.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/359)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4028.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/360)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4026.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/358)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4029.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/361)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4031.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/363)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4033.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/365)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4034.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/366)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4032.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/364)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4030.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/362)

1) I still had the problem of the winch drive gear being attached to the prop-shaft...
2) ...there were two grub-screws apparently holding the UJ in place, but despite drilling them out, it wouldn't move - I didn't have a gas torch to heat it with (and that would probably have knackered the UJ anyway), so I just cut through one of the UJ cross-arms - proper mechanical butchery :(
3) I was hopeful that the UJ at the PTO end would be easier to remove...
4) ...and to give me some leeway to manoeuvre the prop-shaft, I removed these bolts, which hold one of the prop-shaft guide cups on a plate...
5) ...but none of this helped - the UJ was never coming off the PTO (and I was worried about damaging the internal gearing of the PTO by bashing it about too much), so I cut through this UJ, too...I felt tainted for having done it, though :(

6) I'd decided to start clearing the way for lifting the engine and gearbox out, so I started by bending back the brake and clutch lines.
7) The forward section of the exhaust is actually quite easy to remove (with no bodywork in the way, anyway!) - these three nuts came off quite easily.
8 ) I removed the heat-shield from turbo for better access to the exhaust - the Haynes manual says there are three bolts holding it on...
9) ...but there are actually four...and one of them's a different size to the others...but it's fairly easy to remove.
10) At the rear end of the exhaust forward section are these two bolts...

11) ...they come off fairly easily, too...
12) ...leaving the exhaust hanging from this mounting point.
13) With a bit of wiggling, the exhaust comes away from the turbo and now, the only thing tying the engine to the chassis...
14) ...is the power steering system, starting with this reservoir...
15) ...and these two pipes fixed to the front chassis cross-member...

16) ...which then fix to the power-steering pump...
17) ...with a bolt-on union and a jubilee-clipped pipe - I'll undo these another day...


Now for the exciting bit - removing the tub!..

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4035.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/367)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4041.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/373)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4039.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/371)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4037.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/369)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4040.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/372)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4038.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/370)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4036.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/368)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4042.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/374)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4044.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/376)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4043.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/375)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4047.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/379)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4045.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/377)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4046.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/378)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4048.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/380)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4051.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/383)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4052.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/384)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4050.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/382)

1) First, I moved the Land Rover (old chassis?) under the chain-winch...
2) The seat belts and rear-wheel carrier were bungeed in place to stop them flapping about...
3) I wasn't sure how heavy the tub was, so I decided to lift it from the bottom rather than through the various holes around the top of it...
4) ...here you can see that the rope passed under the rear has helpfully hooked around the exhaust...bl00dy ropes...you can also see a slight logistical problem with my plan - I had to stand in the tub to get at the winch...
5) With only moderate persuasion from a very big screw-driver, the tub lifted free of the chassis!

6) I didn't have charge of the camera at this point - I'd yet again pleaded for help from my girlfriend and, while I balanced on the gearbox hauling on the chain-winch, she enthusiastically took pictures...
7) This seems to be the rear lifting rope passing over the rear chassis sub-frame.
8 ) The tub was well clear by this point and nothing seemed to be still attached, so we carried on lifting.
9) Here's the rear lifting rope again...
10) This is looking under the tub from N/S to O/S - that's me the other side...I seem to be kicking something...I expect it deserved it...

11) We carried on up...
12) ...and up...
13) ...and up a bit more...
14) ...until the chassis would clear the tub and we just rolled it out from underneath.
15) With a bit of arranging and buggering about, we got the tub up on end (this was actually quite awkward)...

16) ...and, from there, lowered it upside-down onto a dolly I'd built out of decking and four casters.
17) A bit of rearranging and, well, this barn isn't half full of Land Rover bits now!

I'd read somewhere that flipping the tub upside-down was a good idea, as the underside is an awkward shape to put down anywhere.  I think I read that "two men can easily manoeuvre it" - if they both play rugby semi-professionally and do a bit of power-lifting on the weekends, that may be the case, but I can tell you now that the tub it very heavy and very awkward to get hold of.  Flipping it upside-down involved lifting it with the winch from one end, tying it at the bottom to an anchor point to start it flipping and then winching it down onto the trolley while said girlfriend hauled on a rope fixed to the top of it to keep it flipping over.  When we finally got it down onto the trolley, she claimed that it had been the most dangerous thing she'd ever done - rubbish; I'm sure I've had her doing far more dangerous things than that!

The old chassis does look like it's spend some considerable time at the bottom of the sea - it has an "RMS Titanic" level of corrosion in places!

Engine out by next weekend?  I might have to stop and have a think, first...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 25, 2016, 07:43:26 PM
A lot of other, much more boring stuff has got in the way of getting the engine out recently, but I've got there in the end;

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4065.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/397)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4067.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/399)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4069.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/401)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4071.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/403)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4074.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/406)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4075.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/407)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4076.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/408)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4077.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/409)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4078.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/410)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4080.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/412)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4086.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/418)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4087.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/419)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4089.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/421)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4083.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/415)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4088.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/420)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4084.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/416)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4085.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/417)

1) The first job was to disconnect the prop-shafts from the gearbox...
2) ...ideally, you need a special long, narrow-neck, think-walled socket to do this, but apparently you can also do it with a couple of open spanners and a lot of swearing...
3) So, prop-shafts off...onto the four mounting points.
4) The engine has two, one on the O/S which is easy to get at...
5) ...and one on the N/S which is awkward to get at, as there's not enough space to get a socket onto it - you really need an 18mm open spanner.
6) The gearbox has two mounts - one on the N/S, which is easy to get at from underneath...
 
7) ...and one on the O/S which is in a slightly different place and is a slightly different shape, but is also easiest to get at from underneath.
8 ) The last few things to disconnect were this earth-cable on the N/S gearbox casing...
9) ...the fuel-lines, which unclip from two points on the N/S of the engine (the pressure regulator and something else, which I haven't looked up to see what it is)...
10) ...and the power-steering lines - one came off easily, as it's just a jubilee clip, but the other is a brake-line type union, which had rusted solid and sheared as I unscrewed it - pain in the @rse...
11) I'd already decided to lift the engine and gearbox using two hoists - the good old chain-winch is lifting the gearbox, here.
12) The engine lifted away from the mounting points quite easily...

13) ...and keeping the chain-winch in sync lifted the whole engine/gearbox assembly out together.
14) I hadn't lifted it all high enough for the N/S gearbox mount to clear the front suspension tower - it also wouldn't clear the power-steering unit...
15) ...but, once high enough, I rolled the chassis out from under it...
16) ...and here's the engine/gearbox separate from the chassis - hoo-bl00dy-ray!
17) Getting it on a trailer to take it away and clean it was a massive faff, but here it is, ready to go - job done!

I'd made the mistake of thinking I could somehow manoeuvre my trailer under the engine while it was hanging from the engine hoist, but the hoist legs were in the way.  The solution was to spin the hoist around through 90 degrees, squeeze the trailer into the shed past the engine and come at it from the gearbox end - I should have thought of this beforehand, really...

Now, the order of the day is de-greasing and cleaning...er...hooray :(

My plan is to strip the steering, fuel-tank, fuel-lines, wiring and the last few brackets off the the old chassis, then remove the axles, which I decided to swap onto the new chassis rather than use the Tdci ones it has fitted already - my rear axle is a heavy-duty Salisbury unit and my front axle has nearly-new drive-shafts, bearings and swivel-joints...

At some point, I'm going to waxoyl the new chassis, too - I'll be doing it like this (http://funrover.com/tips-guides/the-big-waxoyling-guide/).

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on October 12, 2016, 08:34:40 AM
Hello,

  keeping this up to date has proven difficult lately, as Microsoft have insisted I install "anniversary edition" Windows 10 on my laptop - I see now that, by "anniversary", they mean I'll look back on the day I installed it as the last day my laptop actually worked properly...

  Anyway, I shall prevail against technology:

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4105.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/439)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4106.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/440)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4104.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/438)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4090.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/422)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4091.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/423)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4092.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/424)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4093.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/425)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4094.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/426)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4104.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/438)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4100.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/432)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4098.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/430)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4099.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/431)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4110.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/433)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4111.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/434)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4097.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/429)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4101.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/435)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4102.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/436)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4103.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/437)

1) The first job was to remove the steering damper - unfortunately, there was no way it was unbolting at the N/S end, so I had to cut it off...that's cost me 70.00 :(
2) The front axle has an anti-sway bar that bolts on here (next to the suspension spring)...
3) ...and here, to this weird bracket just next to the PAS manifold.
4) The anti-sway bar unbolts from the front axle here...to say it was a bit tight to get off would be an understatement - twenty minutes of lying on my side, kicking the spanner was great fun...
5) The front anti-roll bar then bolts on here...
6) ...and here...

7) ...and was comparatively easy to get off.

At about this point, I realised that disconnecting the axles while the chassis was sitting on them wasn't going to work, so I decided to raise the chassis up on a secure stand, allowing the axles to drop down and away (in theory)...

8 ) I should probably point out that this is not necessarily a Haynes Manual Sanctioned support system...
9) Anyway...with the weight off the axles, I set to disconnecting the bracket that holds the anti-sway bar to the chassis
10) ...the bolts all actually undid, which was a surprise!
11) Next job was to unbolt the front radius arms, which are attached at the back of the axle...
12) ...and the front of the axle, which sits on top of them.

13) The only things left connecting the axle to the chassis now were the steering arm and the suspension tops, which I couldn't unbolt, as they'd rusted themselves round, so another job for the universal spanner...
14) With the bolt removed, the four bolts holding the suspension tower mount all sheared and the damper was revealed...
15) By this time, I'd had to swing the hubs through their full range quite a few times and had noticed a few drips of hub-grease on the floor...this then became a full on cascade from the N/S hub as the seal failed and, it turned out, the O/S seal was almost as bad...ah, good :(
16) One last job before I packed up that day was to get the winch out of the bumper, so I could see just how rusty the bumper was...it turns out the winch is only held to the bumper with the two bolts that go through the rollers, but the hook won't go back through the rollers...
17) However, the rollers can be removed by removing the c-clip at one end and knocking it through - this took rather more "persuasion" than I was expecting - luckily, I'm working in a tractor shed and tractors, it turns out, respond well to very large hammers...
18) The horizontal rollers wouldn't come out past the vertical rollers and I couldn't even get the screws that hold these in place started...luckily, the universal spanner makes a fairly good universal screwdriver, too...

 I had various ball-joints to remove now, but was awaiting a ball-joint splitter from the internet.com to arrive.  All sorts of excitement coming up, though, so watch this space...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on October 12, 2016, 09:03:30 AM
Hello again,

  just a quick one this time - although quite a few jobs done:

(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4113.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/442)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4117.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/446)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4112.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/441)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4114.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/443)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4118.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/447)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4119.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/448)
(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4120.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/449)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4115.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/444)(http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4116.jpg) (http://www.servimg.com/view/19143780/445)

1) My ball-joint splitter turned up - the heavy-duty one from Laser with a 60mm opening jaw - splendid piece of kit and go the steering tie-rod off the steering arm very easily.
2) Actually, when these boll-joint go, they go with a hell of a bang, which I wasn't expecting the first time :)
3) I then set about separating the rear axle from the chassis, starting with this thing, which I think is the self-levelling mechanism.

4) The rear dampers are a lot easier to remove than the front dampers, although they take some stern levering to get them off the chassis mounts.
5) The rear axle has a tie-rod attached in a similar way to the front radius arms, which unbolts fairly easily.
6) I didn't want to go any further with removing the axles at this point (I wasn't *that* happy with my tyre and fence-post chassis mounting mechanism to be honest), so I set about documenting where the last of the wiring went - down through the O/S front out-rigger...

7) ...into the chassis itself...
8 ) ...and then out through this hole, just under the filler neck.
9) And, the fuel lines connect to the fuel filter here, which are all very handily colour coded...


  Now, I was pretty much ready to remove the axles - I'd sort of been intending to get hold of some spring compressors, but I then though that, in theory, if I lifted the chassis up high enough, the axles should just drop out, even with the springs extended - that was the plan, anyway...let's see how than panned out...

Cheerio,

Paul
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: aqms987 on October 12, 2016, 08:45:32 PM
 Hi Paul
 A longer saga than Coronation St! I am sure it is much more fun though & I am positive you will get your reward in the end.

 Regards
 Allan
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on October 25, 2016, 06:35:05 PM
Hi Allan,

  it is dragging on a bit, isn't it?  I've not even started putting things back together yet, either!

  Here is the final(!) taking-things-apart posting, though...probably:

(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4142.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/471)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4143.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/472)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4145.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/474)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4123.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/452)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4128.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/457)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4122.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/451)
(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4127.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/456)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4125.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/454)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4126.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/455)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4132.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/461)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4133.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/462)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4134.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/463)
(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4140.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/469)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4141.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/470)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4137.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/466)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4138.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/467)(https://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4139.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/468)

1) First thing first then, I still had to remove the tank, so I made a note of where the four pipes and the wires went...
2) ...then decided to hoist the tank out upwards, contrary to what the Haynes manual advises (but it still thinks you have the tub in the way...)
3) A bit of fiddling and levering gets the filler neck out through the chassis...
4) ...and then out it pops like a good'un, job done :)
5) Hmm...think I might have run my tank a bit dry...
6) Anyway, back to the front and my plan to hoist the chassis up in the air so that the front springs could be removed worked brilliantly (I say in all modesty...)

7) ...but it turned out that it wasn't possible to get the axle out forwards, over the radius arms with the steering tie-rod still attached...
8 ) ...so that had to come off - good old ball-joint separator to the rescue again.
9) With a bit of modest persuasion, out the axle came...and immediately my rudimentary grasp of mechanical physics became apparent as, a) the weight of the diff spun it towards the ground and b) the wheels then collapsed sideways, as the steering was effectively now 90 degrees out and some idiot had removed the steering tie-rod...
10) Luckily, the farmer whose barn this is happened to be passing by at the time and came to the rescue - between us we got the tie-rod back on, although I did feel a bit guilty as a man well into his seventies man-handled the other end of the axle for me...  Anyway, look, no axle!
11) Well, that all went relatively swimmingly, so same story at the rear, eh?  Er, apparently not, as the springs are too well jammed into the rear mounts, so I came up with the idea of levering them out with a trolley jack - this may not be a Haynes Manual sanctioned exercise again, just to warn everybody...
12) With an almighty bang and a subsequent shower of rust returning to Earth from the roof beams, the spring "released" from the mount and the axle dropped to the ground - that was exciting!

13) At this point, I discovered that the rear brakes were jammed on, so I had to take the wheels back off and remove the pads - not at all a massive pain in the @rse - how I laughed about it afterwards...
14) Anyway...wheels back on, I hoisted up the rear of the chassis and rolled the axle out.
15) After a lot of pushing and shoving, I got the axles out of the way and the chassis was ready for its final job...being got rid of.
16) As with a lot of jobs that turn into a nightmare, I didn't take any pictures of the "getting the chassis on the trailer" exercise.  I'd planned to lift the back of the chassis on the engine hoist, lift the front on the chain winch in the roof and then wheel the engine hoist forwards while shortening the chain-winch.  The principle was sound, but bloody physics let me down again - the chassis just straight away fell on the floor and I then had to jack it up onto a trolley and..well..it was a faff, but it ended up on the trailer...
17) So there it goes - as I strapped it down onto the trailer, the cross-member forward of the fuel-tank split and crumbled away to nothing!

It's been a couple of weeks since I achieved all of this - last week, I drove down to Hull and picked up my galvanised bulkhead, an enormous number of galvanised brackets and a replacement dashboard under-fascia (if that's what it's called) - there's also a complete poly-bush kit in the post to me, somwehere - pictures to follow.

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: OldJocksRustbucket on October 25, 2016, 09:26:10 PM
Had been waiting on the latest post to see how you were getting on, looks like your almost ready too start the rebuild, thats when the fun starts remembering what goes where, anyway great effort, hope everything works our for you.
Jock
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on November 19, 2016, 07:28:25 PM
I haven't updated this in a while because I haven't really done anything worth taking pictures of...I'm very much in the "buying stuff" and "wire-bushing stuff" phase, it turns out.  Anyway, in case anybody thought I'd given up and sold the whole thing for parts, here's some pictures to prove I'm not that intelligent:

(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4110.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/475)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4119.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/484)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4116.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/481)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4120.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/485)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4118.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/483)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4113.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/478)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4114.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/479)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4123.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/488)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4121.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/486)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4115.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/480)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4124.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/489)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4112.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/477)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4125.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/490)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4111.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/476)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4126.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/491)

1. I'd already planned to replace the suspension on the new chassis - I've got new dampers ready to fit and I decided to keep the old springs from the original chassis, as they're thicker, heavy-duty ones.  The first job, then, was to remove the front axle.
2. I have to admit, I'm not entirely happy with the galvanising job on the chassis - it's pretty thick all over, bit it's not taken in a few places due to second-rate grit-blasting.  Although this might be seen as heresy (or is it sacrilege?), I decided to under-seal the chassis.
3. I actually bought an air compressor to do this and I'm really glad I did - under-sealing all this with spray-cans would be a nightmare job!
4. I under-sealed the rear-cross-member, too - I'm not sure that was a good idea on the exposed rear section, so I might rub it back and paint it with stone-chip and some sort of top-coat...

5. So there we go - it takes 4 1-litre cans of under-seal to cover the chassis, but I've gone over parts of it again with a 5th can since then.  I also sprayed into the chassis through every hole I could find, too.
6. One problem I've got is that my gearbox has a PTO on the side of it and this standard exhaust hanger bracket is in the way of it.  On my original chassis, this had been cut off so...
7. ...a quick bit of angle-grinding later and the bracket's gone.  I tell you what, if you think under-sealing a galvanised chassis gives you pause for thought, you should try taking an angle-grinder to one!
8. Now everything (I mean EVERYTHING, even by-standing cows) was covered in under-seal, I decided to start cleaning up the rear axle.  Although I've got a new one, it's a standard axle and this is a heavy-duty Salisbury one, so I'm swapping it.

9. The Salisbury axle fixes to the rear-axle centre-mount differently to the standard axle - it uses this bracket which bolts to the top of the axle.  You can't tell here, but the ball-joint's knackered, so I decided to separate it from the bracket.
10. But...it didn't want to come apart - the ball-joint nut wouldn't shift at all and I couldn't angle-grind it off because it's recessed into the bracket.  I've got a replacement half of the bracket that fits to the centre-support arms, so I only really need the bracket that bolts to the axle, so I decided to start carving things up with my angle-grinder.
11. To say this didn't go well would be an understatement.  Having cut through the ball-joint, the farmer pointed out to me that I hadn't helped myself at all, as the ball-joint shaft still needed to go through the bracket from the bolt-side, as it's tapered.  I looked on the internet.com to see how much a replacement was and, b*gger me, this is the most expensive component on a Defender for its size!  If you can even find one of these, it'll set you back £150-200!  So, before I knackered it any further, I took it to a local engineering firm and had them sort it out for me - they even grit blasted it to clean it up (obviously not the tapered hole).
12. Next job was cleaning up and painting the rear suspension brackets and the centre-support mounts...

13. ...and the cleaned up axle bracket - £200!!!
14. Mind you, that's nothing compared to this - here's a thousand quid's worth of galvanised bulkhead waiting patiently in my shed...
15. ...and here's the new dampers and a steering damper (after I had to cut the old one off...), plus a really heavy box of poly bushes that, allegedly, are all the bushes I'll need...

So, I'm doing various cleaning and painting jobs at the moment - I've also fitted all new track-rod ends and cleaned up and painted all the various front suspension/steering rods etc.  There's £100 worth of stainless nuts and bolts in the back of my van waiting to do all the fitting that's going to happen next and about the same again's worth in the post on its way to me from YRM...  The suspension springs are away being grit-blasted and enamelled and I'm trying to get hold of new galvanised suspension seats and mounting rings etc - so that's where I am - buying stuff, it turns out, takes longer than you'd think...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: aqms987 on November 20, 2016, 07:56:15 PM
 Hi There
 You had me worried, I thought there was not going to be a continuation of the saga! If the club has an award for tenacity you must be a prime candidate! good luck with the project.
 Regards
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: OldJocksRustbucket on November 21, 2016, 11:16:31 AM
Hi Paul, thanks for the updates
Jock
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on November 27, 2016, 07:56:28 PM
Hello,

  I'm still sanding and painting, sanding and painting, sanding and paint etc ad infinitum...

  However, I had to do an interesting job today and I took a few pictures, so here's fun you can have with a salisbury rear axle:

(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4127.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/492)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4130.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/495)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4135.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/500)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4132.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/497)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4133.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/498)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4134.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/499)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4136.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/501)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4144.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/509)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4137.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/502)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4138.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/503)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4139.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/504)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4142.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/507)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4140.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/505)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4143.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/508)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4141.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/506)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4129.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/494)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4131.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/496)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4128.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/493)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/20161111.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/511)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/20161110.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/510)


So first, a bit of fascinating back-story:  I've been sanding down my rear axle (so to speak) and, as part of that, decided to remove the brake calipers to clean them up, too.  As expected, three of the fixing bolts came out fine and one rounded off - most of the rear axle bolts are double-hex and these seem designed specially to round off at the whim of a hat.  The problem with it being double-hex is that my knackered-nut-removing sockets won't fit over it, so I had a go at cutting a slot in the head and levering it with a big screw-driver - that just broke my (second-favourite) screw driver!
So, I thought I'd grind the head off, remove the caliper and figure it out from there - of course, I should have first figured out that the caliper would be impossible to remove with the bolt stud still inside it - now I had effectively a stuck stud, which wasn't really an improvement.  Oh well...I shelled out on a set of decent (Teng!) stud-extractors and set to work...

1. The stud extractor requires a hole drilled in the stud (fairly easy with cobalt drill-bits) and are then driven with a standard tap-handle...
2. ...which is a $41t way of doing it, as the tap-handle can't cope with the torque and I rounded off the stud-extractor in under a minute.  Second attempt then was with a medium-sized stilson - this looked like it was going to work, but the stud-extractor was too thin for it and would only grip it one go in a hundred attempts, despite how much I swore at it.
3. At this point, I realised I could move the caliper away from its mount enough to get a thin cutting-disk between them - with the bolt cut, I managed to remove the caliper.  Of course, I still had to get the stud out of the mount and it turned out that the hole I'd previously drilled into it was quite badly off-centre at this point, so the only option was to drill it through from the rear, but this meant removing the brake-disk...
4. Unbelievably, when you read the Haynes manual, it goes something like this: removing rear disk - refer to section on removing hub.  Removing hub - refer to section on removing half-shafts.  To change the disks, you have to disassemble the axle?!  Right, well, step one - drain the axle oil.
5. The hub-axle bolts come out fairly easily (plenty of leaking oil, presumably...)

6. The hub pulls out with the half-shaft attached.
7. The Haynes manual at this point says "remove the bolt staking", which I had to look up...it means a compressed section of the bolt that holds it against a flat on the stub-axle.  This is actually fairly easy to do, but I'll be replacing it with the old version of a nut, a locking nut and and a locking washer.
8. The nut can now be removed with a 52mm super-socket, although this is tricky when the axle's not fixed in place by the suspension etc and can rotate (like it can here), as this nut is tightened to 150lb.ft, so needs a fair twist to get it off...
9. This method isn't in the Haynes manual - with the axle strapped down onto the axle-stands and wedged against the engine-hoist with a handy wheel, the nut's actually fairly easy to loosen.
10. Getting the washer out is a bit of a sod, though - I had a magnet on a stick, which proved just the job.

11. The hub comes away from the axle with a few brief taps from Land Rover tool no. 1 with the bearings etc in situ.
12. Hooray!  Hub and disk off - pretty rusty behind, though...
13. I had a sudden thought about using a zip-tie bag to seal of the stub-axle - quite pleased with that!
14. Here are the five bolts that hold the disk to the hub - quite who went home from the LR design office the day this idea was signed off thinking "there's a job well done" should be ashamed of themselves!
15. With a lot of penetrating oil and a scaffolding pole (omitted for clarity), the five bolts were carefully eased out (god help me if I sheared one of these!)

The hub and the disk have rust-welded themselves together, though, so I need to have a bit of a think with that one...

16. Here's some things painted blue - I'm using caliper paint, which goes on lovely.
17. My entry for "pimp your power-steering box"...
18. More blue things - like I said...the paint's nice to use.
19. Here's half the stainless bolts you need to put a Defender together - the big bag is for a two-door chassis, which not everywhere sells - these are from Stig Fixings.
20. Here's the other half of the bolts you need - things must be getting serious if I'm buying stuff from YRM!

Next job, then - attack that bl**dy caliper stud from the back!

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on November 27, 2016, 08:26:55 PM
If you haven't got past stage 3 yet, I find that welding a nut over the protruding stud is good way to get them moving, it adds heat to the rusty joint and gives you a nice 'new' nut to lever on. Don't worry too much about your welding skills (or percieved lack thereof!). A professional welder would grind back the joint and surrounding metal to sound and shiny to get a good weld -  being an experienced amateur welder  :P, I just crank the power up and let loose welding the nut to the stud. Reason being that the weld will take to the shiny stud and nut with less chance of sticking to the rusty caliper mount  :o.

Chances are now that the strain is off the bolt, a couple of squirts of penetrating oil and some heat will get it moving
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on November 27, 2016, 09:09:13 PM
Hi Sandy,

  thanks or that - I've considered welding a nut onto it. I watched a video on YT where a bloke drilled a hole in the stud and then welded a nut onto it, using the hole as a sort of well for the weld - seemed to work.  I'm planning to drill a hole through what remains of the stud, tap a thread into it, screw a bolt into that and see if that'll start the stud turning - if that doesn't work, I'll have a go at welding a bigger nut onto that...

  What a faff!
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: OldJocksRustbucket on November 28, 2016, 10:25:03 AM
Hi Paul bit late in the day for you now but i found the easiest way to get a rounded calliper bolt our was to hammer on a socket thats undersized, works every time for me.
Jock
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on January 02, 2017, 05:42:32 PM
Happy New Year!

Not much progress lately, but I've been cleaning and de-rusting things - I've also made a start on changing the rear wheel-bearings and it's not as easy a job as you might hope for!

(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4146.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/513)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4147.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/514)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4149.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/516)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4150.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/517)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4214.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/523)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4148.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/515)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4213.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/522)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4220.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/529)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4221.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/530)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4219.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/528)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4223.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/532)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4224.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/533)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4225.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/534)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4226.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/535)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4227.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/536)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4145.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/512)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4151.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/518)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4210.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/519)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4211.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/520)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4212.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/521)

1. More blue bits - this time, the top radiator mount brackets
2. ...and the rear axle brake shields and brackets.
3. After a lot of wire-brushing, the rear calipers are looking serviceable at least...
4. ...I took them apart to aid cleaning, but I'll probably replace the pistons and seals.  To get the pistons out, there needs to be fluid in the calipers, so I can't replace them until they're plumbed back in again...
5. I can paint them blue, though...

6. Here's one of the rear hubs, wire-brushed and paint with red-oxide...
7. ...then painted black.
8. It seemed mad not to change the bearings while I had the hubs off, but it's actually quite an involved job - first, you have to lever the oil seals out...
9. ...I tried doing this by knocking them out from behind, but that doesn't work.
10. This is the inner side of the hub and here's the inner half of bearing, which lifts out easily.  The bearings are in two parts, the inner part with the rollers and an outer, tapered race...

11. ...which has to be "tapped" out with a punch...
12. ...by catching it on the inner lip.
13. The outer-racer than falls out of the bottom of the hub (for those of you out there with OCD more extreme than mine, this takes 39 "taps" with a hammer).
14. Around the lip of the oil seal, rust has accumulated, but the rest of the bore is clean.  I polished it with a small flap-wheel and...
15. ...blew out all the dust and old grease with an air-gun.  Fitting the replacement outer races requires a press - lucky for me, there's one at work, but this is as far as I can go for now.

16. In the meantime, I'd got the axle back from a local engineering company, who'd fixed the sheared caliper bolt (and a few other sheared bolts - bl**dy rust!) and painted it with fertan.
17. After a couple of days, the fertan had done its job and I brushed off any loose dust ready to paint it.
18. There's as many opinions on how to paint an axle as there are people who've done it and, having read quite a few of them, they're all absolutely certain that theirs is the only way it should be done.  Here's the way I did it - wire-brush / fertan / u-pol gravi-gard, which I tested first on my steering guard - seemed to work, so...
19. ...a liberal coating was then sprayed onto the axle - I've left the freezer-bags covering the stub-axles to keep them paint-free.
20. The gravi-gard sprays on with an underseal gun very easily.  Once dry, I had a go at it with a wire-brush and it's very hard-wearing!

So there we go - if only my suspension springs and mounts would turn up, I could start properly rebuilding...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on January 19, 2017, 09:18:01 PM
Hello,

  well, I've not died or sold my bits of Defender for scrap, but neither have I taken any pictures lately, so I've had nothing to show :(

  I've finished a job tonight, though, which I thought was worth a mention.

  I've been putting my rear axle back together after taking it to bits to get at the sheared caliper fixing bolt.  I used a hydraulic press to get the bearing outer-races in and then re-fitted the stub-axles with new gaskets and new mud-shields (I forgot to fit the mud-shield on one side and only realised after I'd tightened the hub-nut - how I laughed).

  The story I thought was worth recounting was how I fitted the bearings - I'd read that a lot of people replaced the Td5 staked nut on the hub with the old (pre '99) adjusting nut and lock nut setup - you can even buy kits of eBay for this specific retrofit and that's what I did.  I'd also read all sorts of horror stories about BritPart hub-nuts having the wrong thread-pitch due to poor QC, so went for a Timkin bearing kit, expecting to get all Timkin parts - shows what I knew...

  What arrived was a weird mix of parts - Timkin bearings, but BritPart nuts, washers, grease, gaskets, c-lips and new dust-caps.  I quickly realised that the difference between the pre '99 and post '99 way of fitting the bearings is this:  pre '99 uses two hub-nuts and a thin washer that you bend both in and out to lock off both nuts.  Post '99 uses a spacer between the bearings, a really thick washer/spacer and then the staked nut.  If you go for the staked nut, you have to hammer part of it flat against the stub-axle to stop it turning, but if you go for the pre '99 method, you have to bend a washer, so it's six of one and half a dozen of the other, really.

  The kit I'd been sent confusingly had one old-style hub nut and one staked nut per side, which I think was a mistake, but I decided to stick with the post '99 method, use the old spacers and just stake the new nuts.  Fitting the bearings and inner oil-seal is pretty straight forward (making sure they're "packed" with lithium based grease), but I'd decided to get a bearing driver set to ensure the oil-seal was driven in square.  This turned out to be a waste of time, as the inner oil-seal has a lip on its outer face which would be flattened by the bearing driver, so I just tapped it in with a punch, which was quite easy.

  Getting the hub and inner bearing to fit onto the stub axle is a bit of a faff - you have to get it exactly square and I still can't see how I did it.  Once on, the spacer goes in, the outer bearing presses in easily, the big spacer washer goes on over that and then comes the hub nut...oh yes, the ones everybody on t'internet says don't fit.  One side, the new hub-nut went on fine, but the other side, the new nut started to bind on the thread after half a turn.  I tried one of the old nuts to see if the stub-axle thread had got a bit flattened/bent and it screwed on with no problems - I tried the new nut again and it started binding.  Seeing as I obviously had one of BritParts low QC wrong-thread-pitch nuts, I was left with various options - I went for the slightly cowboy option of re-using the nut I'd taken off, even thought that meant re-staking it...if it somehow comes loose, I'll chalk it up to experience.

  So, hub nuts on, I torqued them up to 30Nm, checked the end-float (by grabbing the hub and trying to wobble it - not end-float gauges here!) then torqued it up to 210Nm (155lb.ft) with a really big torque wrench I'd borrowed from work-  my torque wrench goes up to 150lb.ft, but that's as high as it goes, so I'm not confident it'd be very accurate.  The last thing to do was re-insert the driveshafts and bolt the "drive members" to the hubs - this was pretty easy, except my axle is currently on a pallet, so I had to ratchet-strap it down to stop the torque-wrench just turning the axle over.

  Ta da!  Axle put back together - the next job is to fill it back up with oil and see where it starts leaking back out again, as it inevitably will...

  The chaps who are supplying me my new suspension mount plates swear blind they'll put them in a box and send them to me tomorrow - I've started phoning them every day to ask them how it's going (twice a day, sometimes) and I think they're getting fed up with that :)  I've got my springs and bumper back, though!  When I get the suspension mounting plates, I'll start taking pictures again.

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on January 22, 2017, 08:32:27 PM
Quote from: mudTerrain on January 19, 2017, 09:18:01 PM
   .....Fitting the bearings and inner oil-seal is pretty straight forward (making sure they're "packed" with lithium based grease), but I'd decided to get a bearing driver set to ensure the oil-seal was driven in square.  This turned out to be a waste of time, as the inner oil-seal has a lip on its outer face which would be flattened by the bearing driver, so I just tapped it in with a punch, which was quite easy.....


With a smug, know all kind of grin I can confirm that using a hub drive flange coupled with a suitably sized hammer makes an excellent hub seal driver  ::)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on January 31, 2017, 09:08:17 PM
Well now - what are these things...?

(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/dscf4228.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/537)

...Holy F'ing S!  It's the missing galvanised suspension parts!

Right, better crack on, then...

(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4237.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/550)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4238.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/551)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4239.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/552)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4240.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/553)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4229.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/538)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4233.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/542)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4231.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/540)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4232.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/541)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4234.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/543)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4230.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/539)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4236.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/546)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4235.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/545)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4310.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/544)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4313.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/549)

1. I was last seen putting the rear axle back together - here's the disk and hub back on one end...
2. ...and its sexy blue splash-shield...
3. ...which is so good, I too two picture of it.
4. Same story on the other end (the plastic bag was to cover the disk when I touched up a bit of black spray-paint)
5. Wheels on, the axle is now mobile again and finally off the engine-hoist - hoo-bl**dy-ray!

6. Here's the galvanised parts again, sent to me all the way from near York by Land Rover Refurb - very helpful bunch of blokes who even made some of the brackets or me, because you can't actually buy them (non-Land Rover, although the Special Vehicles dept. must have fabricated them at some point...).  Here, you can see suspension seats front and rear, front suspension top-rings, rear inner suspension seats (for HD springs), a Td5 tank-strap and some side-locker brackets (the only galvanised set of these on Earth, surely!?)  Also shown is my latest "cunning plan" - I've printed out and laminated all the suspension/axle diagrams from the allbrit.de website to supplement the Haynes manual...they've worked out quite handy so far.
7. Here are the new galvanised lower spring seats bolted to the front axle - probably worth mentioning here that all the nuts and bolts I'm using for the suspension are stainless steel A4-80 high-tensile - expensive, but better than an axle shearing off one day...
8. The galvanised rings have threaded studs on them which the suspension turrets fix to - unfortunately, these were clarted with zinc from the galvenising process.  Equally unfortunately, these studs are 5/16 UNF 24 pitch for reasons unknown (probably the shallower thread pitch than an equivalent M8 stud), but I was able to borrow a die-nut and cleaned them up.
9. I decided to fix the new front dampers (terra-firma - nice, eh?) into the new turrets (see how they used to be red but I've painted the outsides blue?  Pretty pointless when you think they'll be hidden, mostly behind the inner-arches...but I'll know they're blue!)
10. The front axle was moved into position under the front of the chassis (the blue thing on top of it is a diff-guard mounting plate - hope I don't scratch it!)

11. Then the damper and turret were lowered through the chassis and bolted to the mounting ring - I realise I've left both the lower mounting bushes on the lower end of the damper, but it's not fixed in place yet.
12. The same the other side and then it was time to fit the springs.
13. Although I'm following the sequence in the Haynes manual to refit the front axle, this next bit isn't in the book.  The right way to do this is to compress the springs and lower the axle to fit them in - my way was to hoist the chassis up in the air and fit the springs over the end of the dampers - much easier, although it did take the help of my girlfriend again to guide the dampers back into place while I lowered the hoist arm.
14. There you go, dampers and springs fitted - I referred to the Haynes manual to find out what torque the damper nuts should be tightened to and it says "...tighten them to the securely."...er, fair enough then.

The plans, then, is what it says on page 9-11, section 7:
a) Refit the nuts securing the shock absorbers to the axle - done!
b) Connect the anti roll-bar...
c) Connect the drag-link from the swivel-pin housing
d) Refit the track-rod
e) Refit the panhard rod
f) Refit both radius arms

I have to say, I'm really glad I've gone for all new nuts and bolts, despite the money involved...

Right, watch this space :)

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: OldJocksRustbucket on February 01, 2017, 10:17:02 PM
Hi Paul, thanks for the updates, you're getting there well done so far, all looking good, I think you need to arrange a topping out celebration when you fit the body back on, invites?.....bring a can or bottle... brilliant
Cheers
Jock
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on February 04, 2017, 01:12:56 PM
That sounds like an idea :)  I'll give that some thought :)

All the best,

Paul
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on February 05, 2017, 07:28:20 PM
Work continues apace - I've broken into the new bolts and the poly bushes...here's the result:

(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4328.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/569)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4329.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/570)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4331.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/572)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4330.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/571)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4332.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/573)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4333.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/574)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4334.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/575)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4335.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/576)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4336.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/577)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4337.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/578)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4338.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/579)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4339.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/580)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4340.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/581)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4317.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/558)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4319.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/560)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4314.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/555)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4316.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/557)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4318.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/559)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4315.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/556)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4320.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/561)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4321.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/562)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4323.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/564)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4322.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/563)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4325.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/566)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4324.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/565)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4326.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/567)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4327.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/568)

1. I decided to fit the new tracking rod as per the list in the Haynes manual - I've set the length to 1230mm pin centre to centre as per some website somewhere...
2. But...I knew from having already done this backwards that the radius arms won't fit onto the axle with the tracking rod in place, so I decided to fit them first, instead.  Actually, if you go to the section in the HM about refitting the radius arms, it says to disconnect the tracking rod - that'd be pretty annoying if you'd just fitted it - thanks, Haynes!
3. Having greased the bush holes in the radius arms, I then realised that fitting the new bushes into them was going to need more than the tools I had with me, so I turned my attention to the front anti-roll bar.
4. It was a bit tricky to tell where the mounting bushes/brackets had to go, but I positioned them close enough...
5. ...broke into a packet of new bolts...
6. ...and bolted them in place.  New drop-links are on order, so that's as far as I can go on this bit for the time being.

7. For something to do, I decided to refit the power steering box - it's very heavy and very awkward, so I hung it from my engine hoist...
8. ...and then bolted it in place - pretty easy job, really.
9. Back to the radius arm axle bushes...
10. ...the plan was to press them in with a g-clamp, but this very much doesn't work, as you just can't get the bushes to go in straight...
11. ...so a change of tactics - I pressed the bushes in by hand without the metal insert...
12. ...and then used a handy vice to press the insert into the bushes...

13. ...this worked brilliantly well, so I did all the bushes like this...
14. including the ones in the panhard (anti-sway) rod...
15. ...there you go - job done.
16. Back in the shed - another bag of new bolts got opened.
17. Here's all the bolts and things arranged ready for fitting.
18. I had to dig about a bit to find the cup-washers for the chassis end of the radius arms - I also fitted the new poly bushes, but obviously didn't take a picture of that for some reason...

19. I balanced the radius arm in the chassis-mount with a nut on the end to stop it slipping out...
20. ...then jacked the radius arm up under the axle.
21. The diagrams in the HM and on allbrit show the radius arm bolts going through from both sides, but I decided to insert them from the outside of the vehicle towards the centre - this kept the longer threaded end away from the wheel hub.
22. Now - this is where it all started go ubera elevatum as they might have said in ancient Rome - as expected, the radius arm bolt holes didn't line up perfectly...
23. The angle of the front axle should be set by the front prop-shaft, but that's not fitted yet, so I'm setting the angle with the engine hoist on the drive-flange.
24. Hoisting it up until the bolt fitted worked fine...

25. ...although I changed my mind which side I wanted to put the bolt in from - quite annoying.
26. But rotating the axle had slipped the springs off their seats...
27. ...and despite jumping up and down on the chassis, hoisting it in the air and dropping it and kicking it, it bl**dy wouldn't twist back again.

So I've hit a bit of a problem - I can't get the other radius arm holes to line up because the axle is too far back in relation to the chassis on the other side.  I can't un-twist the axle and I can't see why it's twisted, when the N/S radius arm is bolted at both the axle and chassis ends - it should be all lined up!  I can't see what's gone wrong and on my fifteenth lap of the chassis, muttering and swearing at it, I decided to pack up and go and have a coffee, a sit down and a think - it's not helped so far, though :(

I'm confident I shall prevail, however...although, if I've fitted the front springs upside down or back to front (which I'm starting to think I might have done) I may have to start prevailing after getting a considerable amount of expleting out of the way, first...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on February 11, 2017, 05:59:57 PM
Well, after some internetting and some advice from the helpful people on this forum, I've decided that my radius arms and dampers look as weirdly out of  true as Land Rover intended, so I'm not worrying about it anymore - I'm just bolting more things on;

(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4366.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/607)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4365.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/606)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4348.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/589)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4353.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/594)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4351.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/592)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4367.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/608)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4349.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/590)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4350.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/591)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4352.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/593)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4354.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/595)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4355.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/596)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4357.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/598)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4356.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/597)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4358.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/599)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4359.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/600)
(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4360.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/601)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4361.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/602)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4362.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/603)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4363.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/604)(https://i37.servimg.com/u/f37/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4364.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/605)

1. The last thing I'd done previously was fit the front anti-roll bar - my drop-links had turned up, so I thought I'd bolt it loosely in place.  I'd also put the tracking rod through the hub-mounts, although I hadn't tightened the nuts...
2. ...which was a good job, as you can't get the anti-roll bar up past it, so I had to take the tracking rod off again.
3. Remember me saying that the HM and the diagrams from allbrit show the radius-arm bolts mounted either way - turns out they don't fit this way round, because they get in the way of the drop-links...
4. ...so I had to knock them back through and re-fit them the other way round - easy this side but a pain the other side, as the bolt is much tighter in the radius arm for some (probably no) reason.
5. The bolts had turned up for this thing, too - panhard rod steering box mounting bracket?

6. I was going to go on and fit the panhard rod and the steering rod, but realised I'd lost the panhard rod bolts(!), so decided to fit these instead - a special sort of Defender soap...
7. Oh alright, not really - they're poly bump-stops...
8. ...and they're a bit awkward to fit, as there's only a single mounting point on the chassis at either end, so you have to balance them with one hand and feed bolts through holes with the other, all while holding a spanner...
9. The last job of the night was fitting the front diff-guard - not because it particularly needed doing...I just wanted to see if it looked cool - success there, really :)
10. It's the next day; I've braved the snow to start removing the rear axle that came with the chassis (and I'm wearing three sets of overalls to keep warm!)

11. The rear section of the exhaust is just too awkward to get out of the way, so I lifted it up, clear of the rear axle on stands.
12. I was thinking the other day, "bl**dy hell, I've been doing this for ages - why is it taking so long?" - well, because of things like this:  The salisbury axle I'm going to fit is currently the wrong end of the shed, but weighs half a ton...
13. ...the only way to get it to the right end is with the engine hoist, but that means moving everything out of the way to get it there...
14. ...and here it is, ready to be fitted - these three pictures represent half an hour of b*ggering about - it's just a slow old job, this...
15. Anyway, enough of me whinging about how hard my life is inside my enormous barn (before somebody doing this on their drive in the snow comes round and throttles me) - I decided to lift the rear of the chassis clear of the rear axle (and springs) - ratchet straps always say not to use them for this, but I've not died yet :)

16. The springs TWANGED out of the mounts...
17. ...and I set about disconnecting the bottom link from the axle - I'd hoped I could roll the axle out with these attached, but they're too well jammed in their chassis mounts.
18. There you have it, then - axle out, new (old) one ready to go in.
19. I thought I'd better check whether the bottom links were the same both sides...
20. ...and they're not, but they're very nearly the same, so I don't think it matters if I forget which is which and swap them over.  The next job will be to press the old bushes out, which is always a sod of a job, even with a hydraulic press...

My plan for the rest of the day was to get the salisbury axle in place and sit the chassis on the springs, but I realised there were bits of the chassis I'd missed with the underseal gun now that the axle was out of the way, so I got all that kit out and started on that.  Turns out undersealing really doesn't work when there's snow on the ground - even with a bucket of hot water to sit the spray-can in, it kept blocking after about ten seconds of spraying and every time I then unscrewed it to poke it with a stick to unblock it, I got more and more covered in underseal...through sheer bl**dy mindedness, though, I got the job done.

Assuming it's not even more arctic tomorrow and there's not wolves and stuff, I'm hoping to get the axle in, sitting on its springs - watch this space :)

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on February 12, 2017, 09:30:25 PM
Good work so far - sort of!

On a pedantic, know all (sort of  :P) point. It is considered 'good engineering practice' to fit bolts with the heads 'outwards and upwards'.

I noted with much sadness that you fitted the front anti roll bar to the chassis brackets with the bolts quite clearly pointing upwards  :o. Likewise with the bump stops. On my Ninety and Disco, the bump stop brackets on the chassis have slots for the bolts to slide into which allows them to 'hang' while you offer up the bump stop and add the washers and nuts fingers tight.

The front radius arm bolts are the obvious exception to the 'heads outwards' though.

However, despite having the Ninety parked in a dry garage next to the house, I have only managed to paint and underseal the rear crossmember during the past fortnight, so perhaps I should stop criticising your efforts and get my overalls on. Or mebbe have another wee dram and turn the heating up a tad  :D.
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on February 13, 2017, 04:04:19 PM
Ah, now, strange as it might seem, I'm glad somebody brought this up.

I've been debating (with myself, obviously...it's not the sort of debate "normal" people can be persuaded to have) which way around bolts should be fitted.  My rationale for fitting them with the studs "in-most" (as it were) is that the stud doesn't protrude into areas where other stuff is likely to be, e.g. pipes and other fittings.  However...the bump-stop bolts are hard up against the chassis the way round I've fitted them so, even though the bolts protrude towards the axle further the other way around, I'm planning to reverse them (because the OCD is keeping me awake at night).

  The same rationale ended up with me fitting the anti-roll bar brackets with the bolts head down - the studs are tucked up, out of the way...

  Had I realised there was a "good engineering practice" to follow, I'd have been on it like a whippet up a drain-pipe (or something), so thanks for pointing it out to me - it actually makes life easier, as now I don't have to agonise over which way round each bolt should go :)

  Many thanks for your kind sharing of knowledge, master :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on February 21, 2017, 10:22:42 PM
Quite a long one this time - my image host is starting to whinge about the number of images I've uploaded :(

(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4329.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/628)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4320.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/619)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4310.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/609)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4314.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/613)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4315.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/614)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4311.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/610)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4312.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/611)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4313.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/612)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4318.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/617)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4319.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/618)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4316.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/615)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4321.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/620)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4317.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/616)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4326.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/625)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4323.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/622)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4322.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/621)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4324.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/623)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4325.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/624)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4327.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/626)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4328.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/627)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4335.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/634)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4334.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/633)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4331.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/630)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4332.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/631)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/20170210.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/642)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4330.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/629)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4333.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/632)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4336.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/635)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4337.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/636)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4339.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/638)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4340.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/639)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4338.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/637)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4341.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/640)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4342.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/641)

I've hit a few annoying problems recently...

1. These are the rear lower-link bushes and mounting brackets...
2. ...that fit together nice and easily like this.
3. This is one of the rear damper upper mounts...
4. ...and it bolts on like this - a bit awkward to do, but not too bad.
5. These are the rear axle upper-link chassis-brackets...
6. ...and you really need somebody else to hold them while you bolt them in place, as they're heavy and awkard.

7. Rear bump-stop fitted (note the bolts the right way round!)
8. Time to roll the axle into place - I've got the lower spring-seat in place, but not bolted down, yet...
9. From this picture, you can see that I've got the chassis hanging from my engine-hoist so that the axle could fit under the tank-guard...
10. ...and I could get the springs in.
11. Quite a lot has happened here that I didn't take any pictures of - my Defender has inner springs at the rear - these sit on inner lower seats that fit over the top of the outer-spring tie-down bars and then the two fixing bolts go through the whole lot.  You need a very long extension to get at them once the springs are fitted.  The galvanised thing in the middle of the upper-mount here is the inner-spring retainer.
12. So, there we go - not a brilliant picture, but there's the chassis sitting on the axle springs - hooray!

13. This is just a picture of the chassis taken for no real reason, really...
14. ...er, so's this - not sure what I was taking these for...
15. Oh, right, here we go - this is the rear anti-roll bar with the galvanised mounts and poly-bushes fitted.  unfortunately, I discovered that the chassis mounts had galvanising in the holes and I didn't have a big enough drill-bit with me to clean them out, so I had to think of something else to do...
16. ...so I fitted the engine mounts, as the bolts had turned up.
17. Very easy to fit - the red stuff is masking tape left over from painting them.
18. Also turning up in the post that day were poly-bushes for the drop-links - for some reason, my super-poly-kit didn't include these.

19. Here are the rear-axle lower-links painted and ready to fit...
20. ...while they were drying, I decided to fit the fuel-filter backing plate - his did not go well...there are four bushes that, it turned out, needed to be threaded to M8x1.25 - easy enough, except for the last one (why is it always the last one?) where I found somebody had got there before me and had left a snapped off M8x1.25 tap - brilliant!  This turned out to be a total nightmare to drill out and I still haven't sorted it out...
21. Anyway, I then went to fit the lower-links and discovered that they didn't fit into the poly-bush inner-tubes.  That vernier-gauge says the bush inner diameter is about 19.6mm...
22. ...and here it's saying that the lower-link outer diameter is about 20mm - problematic, to say the least.
23. Luckily, I hadn't worn out my ability to swear, so got a bit of that done and then fitted the rear anti-roll bar to the newly drilled out and painted chassis brackets.
24. I'm getting quite near the bottom of my pile of brackets etc now and found these seatbelt mounts hadn't been sanded/painted, so I did that to pass the time.

25. Check it out!  Actual proper engineering being done before my very eyes!  This is the lower-link bush tube being bored out by about 0.6mm - the fit is still pretty tight, but at least they fit now!
26. Fitting the lower-link is fairly straight forward - I found the best way was to insert the threaded end into the mount-hole with only one side of the bush on it and then jack the axle-end up into its mount.  The trick is to keep the link square to the axle, hence the metal plate on the jack.  With this end in and pinned by the bolt...
27. ...the other end is now pretty tight against the chassis mount...
28. ...and the other half of the bush, the uber-washer, the small washer and the fixing nut can all be added.
29. In fact, I had to tighten just the nut and the smaller washer onto the thread first to pull the lower-link through the bush a bit, then take the nut and the washer back off again and fit the uber-washer, the smaller washer and the nut all over again.

30. Here's the lower-link on the other side fitted.
31. The last job of this particular night was to fit the chassis cross-member, which I knew was going to be a bit awkward.  You can see not only a jack forcing it up into position, but also a ratchet-strap forcing it forward - I bl**dy laughed when I found that one of the bolts was missing from my stainless pack!
32. Here it is fitted anyway - 3x 30mm bolts and 1x80mm because that's all I had laying around - that'll annoy future me when I go to take it out again for some reason - I don't envy that guy (as Homer said...)
33. Next job is to fit the upper-link to the rear axle.  While my friend at work was lathing the lower-link bushes, he also made me a stepped drift to push the old bushes out with, which worked brilliantly...now I just need to clean up the holes and fit the poly-bushes...oh, and fit the axle-ball-joint-mount...and the upper-link itself - I'm sure it'll all go swimmingly :)

Right, that's where I'm at - I've bought so many nuts and bolts now, I've genuinely forgotten why I bought some of them...hopefully their requirement will become apparent as work progresses.

Cheerio :)

Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on March 04, 2017, 07:11:01 PM
Quite a big moment, really - engine back on its mounts...

(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4343.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/649)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4417.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/651)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4416.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/650)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4418.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/652)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4419.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/653)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4420.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/654)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4421.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/655)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4422.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/656)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4423.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/657)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4426.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/660)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4424.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/658)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4425.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/659)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4427.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/661)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4428.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/662)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4412.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/645)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4413.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/646)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4411.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/644)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4410.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/643)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4415.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/648)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4414.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/647)

1. Last time, I was finishing off connecting up the rear suspension - here's the N/S drop-link in place...
2. ...and the one the other side with the poly-bushes in and the anti-roll bar against them.
3. The bolts went through very easily and, although I didn't take any pictures, I did the other side too and that was that.
4. Next job was to bolt the upper-link ball-joint bracket to the axle - you only get this with a Salisbury axle.
5. The four bolts are all double-hex, which is a pain, as they just won't torque up to 130lb.ft as required without slipping in the socket - I'll have to come back to these...

6. This is the panhard rod fitted to the axle...
7. ...but without any weight on the front suspension, the other end is some distance from the bracket on the chassis...
8. ...it's also twisted relative to the bracket, as the front suspension is over-extended.  It'd be possible to jack and winch it into place, but the poor old bolt wouldn't thank me for it when the ratchet-straps came off, so I just cable-tied it up for the time being.
9. To finish off this day, I cleaned up the fuel-filter rivnut hole that I'd had to drill out - all the oil used during drilling had dissolved the underseal!
10. Because they were sitting around, the last job of the day was to fit the chassis brackets that fix to the front end of the tub (Bracket Mounting Body - NRC6951 to give them their full, interesting title) - these are from YRM again, plus the underside mounting plates.

11. They're still mounted loose here, to allow for a bit of b*ggering about hen the tub comes back into play...
12. So here's the exciting job - it sort of looks like the engine/gearbox has crash-landed onto my trailer, here...
13. A combination of chain-winch and engine-hoist had the engine up, off the trailer.
14. To clear the front of the chassis and the steering box, the engine/gearbox has to be lifted quite high...
15. ...then the chassis can be rolled under it - this was the first time the chassis had moved on the axles since I rolled it in, back in August! That's a blanket over the steering box to avoid any damaging coming togethers...

16. The engine and gearbox only fix at four points, this is the N/S gearbox-mount...
17. ...this is the O/S gearbox-mount...
18. ...and this is the N/S engine-mount with hand of girlfriend getting the nut in place - notice I've missed off the engine-mount heat shield - how we laughed when we ealised we'd have to lift the bl**dy engine back off again to get it in...
19. With the weight of the engine on the front of the chassis, the suspension compressed down enough so that (with a bit of persuasion) the chassis-end of the panhard rod could be fixed.
20. Ah yes...the N/S engine-mount heat-shield...mutter...grumble...explete

  Getting the engine down onto its mounts is actually fairly straight forward as long as you do it gradually - the engine/gearbox has to be pretty much exactly level for all four mounts to meet their respective studs/holes.  I put the studs into the gearbox-mounts to guide them into the holes in the chassis, then got the engine-mount nuts on first and pulled/pushed the gearbox as I lowered it onto the chassis.

  I've done a few other bits and pieces since I took this set of pictures, so keep watching for more...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on March 04, 2017, 08:44:16 PM
Painting and various small jobs:

(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4434.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/668)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4430.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/664)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4433.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/667)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4429.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/663)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4431.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/665)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4432.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/666)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4448.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/683)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4440.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/675)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4442.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/677)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4443.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/678)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4444.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/679)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4445.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/680)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4446.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/681)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4447.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/682)

1. A problem I've had for a while is this EGR tube - I took out the EGR valve when I thought it was causing the engine to cut out - it turned out the problem was a bad earth to the ECU - the EGR removal kit I bought came with a blanking plate, but the bolts holding the EGR pipe to the manifold were too well rusted in to remove, so I just bent the tube over - seemed logical, but it didn't work and the whole engine bay has been covered in oily cr*p ever since...
2. The only way to get the EGR pipe off the manifold is to drill out the bolts, so I needed to get the manifold off the engine - a fairly easy job, as all the nuts are easy-ish to get at.  The only real problem is the turbo, which I couldn't remove from the manifold...
3. ...so the only option was to remove the two oil lines - here's the top one...
4. ...and here's the bottom one - they come off fairly easily.
5. The manifold comes away from the head quite easily - there are two metal gaskets on my engine, but I suspect there's only supposed to be one - somebody's sheared a manifold stud in the past, so maybe two gaskets stops it leaking too badly...

6. Manifold off - time to do something else...
7. I fitted the steering-rod/drag-link, having set the length to 940mm (I think...better check that!)
8. The steering-box end has a bracket that the steering-damper fits to...
9. ...while the other end fits through the hub - everything is loose-fitted at the point.
10. I've been going mad with the blue paint in between jobs - the engines got a real maritime look to it, now :)

11. Last job of the day - replace the rivnut I had to drill out...
12. ...although my old rivnut tool has seen better days, it still works...
13. ...and I was actually dead pleased with how well the replacement rivnut fitted.
14. Fuel-filter and mounting-plate fitted - another job done...only about a thousand left to do!

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on March 13, 2017, 06:51:17 PM
Three jobs that were quite awkward...

(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4461.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/696)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4463.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/698)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4465.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/700)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4467.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/702)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4466.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/701)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4462.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/697)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4464.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/699)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4469.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/704)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4468.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/703)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4451.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/686)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4453.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/688)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4450.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/685)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4449.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/684)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4452.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/687)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4454.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/689)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4455.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/690)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4457.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/692)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4456.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/691)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4460.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/695)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4458.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/693)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4459.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/694)

1. The first awkward job was getting the loom back inside the chassis.
2. I tried bits of wite, bits of pipe and even my pneumatic air line, but none of them would thread through the chassis, so I had to buy a cable-guide tool and here it is, going into the chassis under the front outrigger.
3. It comes out just forward of the rear cross-member...
4. ...and then it's just a case of hauling the loom through (not with the guide tool, but with a rope I fed through the chassis)...
5. ...until it comes out of the front - it needs quite a meaningful pull to get it through.
6. Here's the start of an easy job - I'd bought a new fuel-filter bracket etc and had to fit the pipe unions - they felt a bit loose, so I wrapped them in PTFE before screwing them in.
7. When fitting them, though, make sure you do the inner ones first, as you can't get a spanner on them, otherwise (guess how I figured that out...)

8. I'd already pressed out the old upper-link bushes, so in went the new poly-bushes.
9. With some manipulation, I got the upper-link in on top of the axle, but getting it to line up with the mounting brackets proved quite tricky - this was the start of the secong awkward job...
10. As you can see, I've got cargo-straps all over the place, either supporting the upper-link (which weighs about 20kg I reckon)...
11. ...or pulling it backwards to try to line it up with the mounting brackets.
12. After a great deal of b*ggering about, I managed to get the first bolt in (it looks a long way out of true here, but that's mostly because the other side isn't lined up yet - interestingly, these bolts are 3/4" by 4" UNF - you can't get stainless ones of these anywhere, so these are from LR themselves.  Amusingly, you can get the bolts singly, but the nuts only come in packs of ten...even though no Land Rover needs more than two...really, LR?)
13. Here's the other side after some serious hauling and stretching with the cargo-straps, but there was no lining it up with the bracket holes...
14. ...so I came back the next day with a bottle-jack. braced it against a piece of disassemble tractor (Claas green, in case you're wondering - not sure what it was, but there are bits of it everywhere, so I can only assume it exploded one day)...

15. ...and pushed the top-link into position.
16. Unfortunately, as the top-link moved backwards, it also moved down, so I had to get a second jack and push it up, back into position...
17. ...like this.  The bolt then knocked in quite easily, but you have to be carefully not to knock them through too far before you put the nuts on, as they sit almost against the chassis, so there's no space to get the nuts onto the bolts (again, guess how I found that out...)
18. The last awkward job, although I made this one awkward myself...now the rear axle had all its links attached, I could fit the dampers - I was a bit worried it might make getting the links connected a bit difficult - I needn't have worried...they were going to be awkward no matter what I did!
19. The problem here was that the damper bottom bushes didn't fit in the axle mounts - the cup-washers that came fitted to the dampers were too wide.
20. So I had a think, looked in the box for the other damper and...er...found a sheet of instructions that says something to the effect of "don't fit the cup-washers to the damper mounts"...
21. ...so I did just that and the dampers fit into the axle mounts perfectly.  The more eagle-eyed reader might notice that I've missed off the upper-mount washers - they're soaking in petrol, as they're filthy, but they'll be going on next - hopefully I can get the dampers back off the upper-mounts to do this...if I have to disconnect the bottom mounts again, I may have to explete at great and imaginative length...

Since then, I gone through my logbook of what nuts/bolts I've fitted and torqued most of them as per the HM - next job will be to torque up all the ball-joints (you only get one go at those, so I want to  make sure everything's right first - I've already had to take the front anti-roll-bar brackets off again because I missed out two winch-PTO brackets) and then fit the steering damper.  I'm also in the middle of re-fitting the exhaust manifold (I've sheared a stud...@rse) and fitting the fuel-lines.

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on March 13, 2017, 09:41:27 PM
Quote from: mudTerrain on March 13, 2017, 06:51:17 PM
.....21. ...so I did just that and the dampers fit into the axle mounts perfectly.  The more eagle-eyed reader might notice that I've missed off the upper-mount washers - they're soaking in petrol, as they're filthy, but they'll be going on next - hopefully I can get the dampers back off the upper-mounts to do this...if I have to disconnect the bottom mounts again, I may have to explete at great and imaginative length...


Good work so far, take a deep breath now. If you are hoping to remove the top of the rear shocks from the chassis mount without undoing the bottom mounts you may well struggle due to the top mount pin being angled upwards. It is near impossible on an old shock with knackered bushes and will probably be expletive inducing with new shocks and bushes.

FWIW I have been busy too, got the Disco MOT'd (only took a year!! and am refitting the rear tub to my Ninety at the mo)  No doubt you will have rebuilt yours by the time I am back to a 2 x Landy family again  ::).
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on March 14, 2017, 07:22:46 PM
Oh B*gger :(

Well, you live and learn, I suppose...or you should...maybe you more sort of live and swear and live a bit more and then swear a bit more and then learn...?

If you're already fitting the tub, I think you'll beat me onto the road!  I'm still contemplating my new brake lines et al...

It must have been very pleasing to get an MOT - well done! :)

All the best,

Paul
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on March 14, 2017, 09:55:30 PM
Quote from: mudTerrain on March 14, 2017, 07:22:46 PM
......
If you're already fitting the tub, I think you'll beat me onto the road.....

It must have been very pleasing to get an MOT - well done! :)


Even managed to get the seat box fitted tonight   :D

Given that my planned 2 month refurb of the Ninety has taken two years and has still to be reassembled and painted, I suspect that you may beat me to the road.

The Disco MOT was a doddle. It sailed through last years test, only failing on the CO2 level. 12 months, 40 miles and much tesing of sensors and intake systems and Hey Presto, she passed again  ::)   
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 01, 2017, 08:32:09 PM
Two years!  I planned to be done by Easter...maybe by the Summer...?

There's an exciting end to this set of pictures...

(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4487.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/726)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4488.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/727)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4489.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/728)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4490.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/729)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4491.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/730)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4493.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/732)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4495.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/734)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4494.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/733)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4496.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/735)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4471.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/706)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4470.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/705)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4472.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/707)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4475.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/710)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4474.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/709)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4102.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/741)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4481.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/716)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4480.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/715)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4476.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/711)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4477.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/712)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4478.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/713)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4479.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/714)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4482.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/717)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4483.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/718)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4484.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/719)
(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4485.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/720)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4486.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/721)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4510.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/722)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4511.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/723)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4512.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/724)(https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/19/14/37/80/th/dscf4513.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19143780/725)

...blimey - it's all been a bit busy recently!

1. First job was to fit the bulkhead/chassis brackets - just loose initially.
2. I'd cleaned up all the fuel-line clips and re-organised the fuel-lines as best as I could - they were a very complicated when I took them off!
3. As I work my way down through the piles of stuff taken off previously, I keep finding things that need sorting out - this is the steering shaft and it had seized :(
4. Here's the fuel-tank about to go in - I seem to have taken no more pictures of this job!  The tank fitted easily, but the strap across the top of it was a sod to fit...
5. Here's a job that looks like it went well, but didn't really - I cleaned up the exhaust manifold face...
6. ...fitted the new gaskets...

7. ...fitted the manifold...
8. ...and fitted the nuts.  Three of the studs then stripped their threads in the head, which is a problem I'll need to come back to :(
9. Back to the brakes - the front calipers are all cleaned up and refitted...
10. ...including the disk-shield.
11. Seeing as I was up the front, I started fitting the new steering-damper...
12. ...which was pretty easy...

13. ...although the mounting-nut/rubbers seemed to need a lot of tightening.
14. Them to the rear calipers, which are awkward to line up and fit, but go on with a bit of perseverance...
15. ...I was going to overhaul the calipers by replacing the pistons, but I'm starting to worry about how long this is all taking, so that's a job for the future, now.
15. Right - here's the "main event", as it were...fitting the bulkhead!
16. Getting the bulkhead roughly into place is fairly easy with the engine-hoist.
17. The bulkhead bolts go through from the front - I had to clean out a bit of galvanising first, though.

18. This picture entirely fails to show the problem here - with the O/S bolt fitted, the N/S bolt is about 5mm too far towards the O/S to fit through the bulkhead...
19. ...but I was expecting that, so I had a bottle-jack ready to lever the bulkhead into place...unfortunately, it turned out my bottle-jack wouldn't work on it's side, so it turned out to be a job for ratchet-straps...
20. ...one to the barn wall, hauling the bulkhead sideways and one to the front wheel, keeping the bulkhead tight against the outrigger.
21. With the bottom bolts fitted (loose), the next was to make sure the bulkhead was dead-upright.  get this wrong and (I've been told) the doors just won't fit or close.  This was clearly a job for trigger-nometry - helpful old Pythagoras told me that the distance from the edge of the uppermost hinge bolt-hole to the back of the mid-out-rigger was 1258mm, so I marked this out with a piece of green wire.
22. Using ratchet-straps, I pulled the bulkhead into position...
23. ...and then fixed the chassis/bulkhead brackets to the chassis and put bolts through the foot-wells and into the brackets (loose).

24. When I picked up the bulkhead, the chaps at LR Refurb gave me these packing plates - they reckoned the bulkheads were built new by Land Rover with a 15mm tolerance, so the fit after galvanising (warping etc) is never going to be brilliant...
25. The O/S needed 1 packing plate to get the distance to 1258mm - the N/S needed three(!) plates, but the bulkhead's about as upright relative to the chassis as I can get it.
26. So here it is fitted...
27. ...upright and solid...
28. ...I was genuinely surprised by how well the whole fitting process went!
29. So, bulkhead fitted, I can practically drive it around now!...well, maybe not drive it around, but certainly sit where the seat could be...well, I might fall through the chassis if I tried that, but another job done, only 999 left to do, now :)

Next job is to fit the brake-pedal/master-cylinder and then fit the new brake-lines, which should be much easier with start and end points (calipers and master-cylinders)...well, hopefully.

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 13, 2017, 07:54:55 PM
Well, it's taken a while, but I've finally stumbled across the most difficult, frustrating, time-consuming job of the whole build (...all right, so far) - fitting s*dding brake-lines!

I've also run out of room on my image-hosting site, so I've had to jump ship as 'twere and the pictures below might be a bit weird, format-wise:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/fDwqt5/DSCF4523.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fDwqt5)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gvN8fk/DSCF4522.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gvN8fk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/k5fTfk/DSCF4524.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k5fTfk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gNkTfk/DSCF4525.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gNkTfk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/eqzRY5/DSCF4527.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eqzRY5)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gGWemQ/DSCF4526.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gGWemQ)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/bQEofk/DSCF4513.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bQEofk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/evXKmQ/DSCF4512.jpg) (https://ibb.co/evXKmQ)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/djTQRQ/DSCF4511.jpg) (https://ibb.co/djTQRQ)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/d1NKmQ/DSCF4510.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d1NKmQ)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/eFfx6Q/DSCF4509.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eFfx6Q)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/bRbR0k/DSCF4508.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bRbR0k)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/jV6tfk/DSCF4507.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jV6tfk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/no8H6Q/DSCF4506.jpg) (https://ibb.co/no8H6Q)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/g0zPmQ/DSCF4528.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g0zPmQ)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hGOjmQ/DSCF4505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hGOjmQ)

1. One job left to do was torque up all the suspension bolts - I'd left them all loose in case I needed to take anything off again...I mean...as if!
2. Tightening up the top-link ball-joint nut was made easier by lifting the weight of the chassis off the axle, allowing better access to the nut and forcing it backwards slightly in its mounting (so I could get a socket onto it).
3. Another job I'd left was fixing the knackered clutch slave cylinder pipe(s).
4. I got them off (eventually!), but had to cut through the metal link pipe - of course, had I known that this little four-inch long pipe costs 120.00 to replace, I might have put more effort into getting it off in one piece (actually, L.R.Series will sell me one for a tenner, but check these links out for mad LR pricing: Rimmer Bros (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ANR2183) vs L.R.Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/15007/ANR2183-CLUTCH-PIPE.html?search=anr2183&page=1)

5. This is the t-piece that sits on top of the rear axle and sends brake-fluid to the rear brakes.  I've started fitting the O/S brake-line here.
6. Here's the problem - look at the convoluted shape of the brake line!  I bought an Automec brake-line "kit", so I have all the different lengths of brake-line needed (with ends flared and connectors fitted), but I have to bend them all myself.
7. Things have got a bit out of sequence here - this is the t-piece before I'd removed the old brake-lines...
8. ...I was trying to record exactly how the two brake-lines fitted to it...

9. ...little did I know that the threads in the t-piece were knackered and, when I went to fit the new brake-lines, it knackered them, too...b*gger :(
10. Anyway, here's the new brake-line bent as close as I could get it to the original.
11. Here's the brake-line running from front to back of the chassis - it runs along the top of the chassis until just ahead of the top-link chassis cross-member...
12. ...and then bends under it to a bracket where it meets the flexi-hose to the rear axle.

13. The brake-lines run along the top of the chassis quite neatly...
14. ...better than the fuel-lines, which just don't look right :(
15. So, 15 quid later, here's the new t-piece with non-knackered threads and the new brake-lines fitted (although I had to buy a brake-line flaring kit for 30 odd quid...oh, and a brake-line cutter for another tenner - pain in the *rse)
16. I decided to fit the brake master cylinder, so I knew where all the brake-lines were aiming for - it became obvious that I needed a great number of clips, though, so an evening hunting through the diagrams on the allbrit (http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=757563&SPRACHE=EN) site and then trying to find somewhere that sold all the clips required (L.R.Series again) beckoned and now I'm waiting for a parcel of more, obscure land rover parts to turn up...

I've fitted the clutch-pedal since then and the next job is to fit the steel clutch-line (which I bought ages ago, pre-bent thank God!), which can then be used as a guide for the N/S/F brake-line, as the two are clipped together as they travel across the bulkhead.

The thing I've discovered I really hate about bending and fitting brake-lines is the result is always, at best, passable - I just can't do a neat job of it :(  Oh well - less OCD based misery and more bolting things together, I suppose...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 16, 2017, 09:20:05 PM
I'm actually fitting ancillaries - look!

(https://thumb.ibb.co/fPTkRQ/DSCF4532.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fPTkRQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gm43D5/DSCF4533.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gm43D5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eC0X6Q/DSCF4534.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eC0X6Q)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hNu3D5/DSCF4535.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hNu3D5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/iLruLk/DSCF4536.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iLruLk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/ntpg0k/DSCF4537.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ntpg0k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eEYKmQ/DSCF4538.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eEYKmQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hELM0k/DSCF4539.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hELM0k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kRYkRQ/DSCF4540.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kRYkRQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cxNJfk/DSCF4541.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cxNJfk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/ii8ft5/DSCF4542.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ii8ft5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bPe9mQ/DSCF4543.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bPe9mQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kNEyfk/DSCF4544.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kNEyfk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mVDft5/DSCF4545.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mVDft5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hSKaRQ/DSCF4546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hSKaRQ)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/c2XUmQ/DSCF4547.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c2XUmQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bNQ4Lk/DSCF4548.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bNQ4Lk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/i4oPLk/DSCF4549.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i4oPLk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gATwY5/DSCF4550.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gATwY5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ffGuLk/DSCF4551.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ffGuLk)

1. This is the upper-steering-shaft upper-bracket.  Having already fitted the brake and clutch pedals, I then decided to fit the steering shaft, as I realised that some of the brackets that the brake lines clip to are fixed to the brackets for that, too (if that makes sense!)
2. This is the upper-steering-shaft lower-bracket - nice and blue, eh?  You can also see a patch I've welded over a hole in the brake-pedal box - quite pleased with that :)
3. It was obvious that fitting the steering shaft with the brake pedal in the way wasn't going to be possible, so I removed it (again!)
4. At this point, I also realised that you have to fit the steering-shaft through the upper bracket before bolting it to the bulkhead, so I had to take that off again...this is the sponge pad that seals the upper-bracket to the bulkhead.
5. Getting the upper-shaft splines into the lower-shaft is tricky - I tried all sorts of ways of levering the lower-shaft female union apart, but in the end, just smacking the end of the upper-shaft with a rubber mallet proved to be the most effective solution...

6. However, here was a puzzle - the bottom-bracket was about 10mm out - in fact, the whole upper-shaft was 10mm too far forward.
7. When I compared this new steering box and bottom-shaft to the old one, I discovered that this bottom-shaft was 10mm further into the lower UJ than the old one.  So, I loosened it and shifted it out by 10mm, but the mystery is how it came to be wrong?  I would have thought that all Defender's, 110 or otherwise, all have the same length steering shafts, so why is this one 10mm shorter?  Who knows..?
8. Anyway, the upper-shaft it fixed to the upper-bracket with this, blue bracket - you have to fit an "anti-rattle" strip around it, so I cut up an old heater-seal to make on.
9. Then tighten up all the bottom-bracket nuts and that's the steering shaft fitted...
10. ...so I re-fitted the brake-pedal (again...)

11. Seeing as I was fitting steering parts and I had all the power-steering pipes lying around, I decided to fit them next, starting with a new power-steering return pipe (the silver one here).
12. It runs across the front cross-member (down behind it, not on top of it like it is here), held on with these two rusty clips.
13. The chassis already had blind inserts fitted for the clip bolts - I should have threaded them before I fitted the engine, but fitting the engine was all a bit of a rush and there were quite a few things I didn't manage to do beforehand.  Imagine how much I laughed when the insert came away from the chassis with the tap jammed in it.  I managed to pull the tap out of the insert with mole-grips and a lump-hammer, but the insert was now lost inside the front cross-member.  Luckily, I'd bought a telescopic grabber when I lost a stainless bolt inside the chassis a while ago, so after barely twenty minutes of blind fishing around, I managed to get it back out...ah, fun times.
14. Also luckily, I had some M6 rivnuts and the holes in the chassis were about 9mm, so I was able to put new, better, working, threaded inserts into the holes.
15. So, there you go - two M6 nuts in their inserts...

16. ...the cleaned up and galv-sprayed clips in place...
17. ...and the pipes fitted - if you look carefully, you can see the black, low-pressure feed-line below the silver high-pressure line - you might also see I've fitted some foam padding to the clips, to protect the pipes and ensure they don't rattle, as the clips are a bit thinner than they used to be (before rust and wire-brushing got at them).
18. Here's the power-steering-fluid reservoir just hanging around...
19. ...and here's the other end of the low-pressure pipe fitting to the power-steering-pump.
20. With the high-pressure pipe clamped tight, I could bend the flexible end round to meet the pump-union.  I'm not sure why the flexible pipe is so long, but the farmer reckons it might have some sort of shock/vibration-damping effect on the steering - like the mysteriously long steering-shaft...who knows..? :)

The next job is to get back to the brake-lines - hopefully all my clips will turn up next week...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 22, 2017, 06:10:58 PM
Brake-pipes.

If I never have to look at another brake-pipe again, I'll die a happy man.

As it is, brake-pipes are currently having a detrimental effect on my life :(

(https://thumb.ibb.co/kmJmLk/DSCF4559.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kmJmLk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cqJaD5/DSCF4560.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cqJaD5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kDmCt5/DSCF4561.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kDmCt5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kK6qfk/DSCF4562.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kK6qfk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/daki0k/DSCF4563.jpg) (https://ibb.co/daki0k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/m2rdY5/DSCF4564.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m2rdY5)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/d2zyY5/DSCF4565.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d2zyY5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/f74bLk/DSCF4566.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f74bLk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cbQi0k/DSCF4567.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cbQi0k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bJGHRQ/DSCF4555.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bJGHRQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nAHffk/DSCF4556.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nAHffk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/n0KRLk/DSCF4557.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n0KRLk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hFuRLk/DSCF4558.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hFuRLk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cwSVfk/DSCF4570.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cwSVfk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cLOgmQ/DSCF4571.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cLOgmQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dJFu6Q/DSCF4572.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dJFu6Q)(https://thumb.ibb.co/e8hVfk/DSCF4573.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e8hVfk)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gDsD0k/DSCF4575.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gDsD0k)

1. As I'm getting (or, at least, I thought I was) close to putting the tub onto the chassis, I decided to dig it out from the back of the shed and lift it...
2. ...onto a trailer to take it away and jet-wash it.
3. Here it is back and clean(ish) and I started sanding off the rust...
4. ...but it became obvious that things were not well with the supports - they'd come away from the floor runners...
5. ...in fact, every single rivet going into the runners had rotted away...
6. ...mmm - galvanic corrosion - nice :(

7. The runners are held onto the tub floor with two rivets at either end (so four in total) and fairly random spot-welding along their length, which can be broken away by hammering a screwdriver between the runner and the floor.  A long, loud and tedious job not helped by some optimistic soul jamming the runners full of vaseline ( or something similar) in the past, presumably to prevent corrosion - that didn't work, but it did get itself smeared all over my screwdriver and my drill...
8. Here are the old, knackered runners - new ones can be got from YRM (http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Products/098/SubProducts/098-0001) for 17.00 a go.
9. There's the floor for the time being - sanded and cleaned, ready for new runners and then the plan is to spray the whole thing with stone-chip to protect it.
10. Right - brake-pipes...here's the front N/S pipe being bent, ready to feed across the bulkhead - it looks like a nightmare of 3D bending, but it's actually not too bad once you've done it ten or twenty times...
11. The F/N/S pipe comes up from the chassis, alongside the clutch-pipe..
12. ...across the top of the bulkhead, still following the clutch-pipe (it's dropped a bit here, but clips will bring it back up into line)...

13. ...and then down, to the base of the master-cylinder bracket.  You can see the other two brake lines (the rear one and the O/S/F) join it at this point, too.  At this point, I discovered that the O/S/F pipe is about 40cm too short - I've whinged to Automec, but they've not replied yet...
14. Between the solid brake-pipes and the calipers (on the front) or the t-joint (on the rear axle), there are flexible hoses - I didn't have a rear hose, so I decided to buy all new, braided hoses from Terra Firma.  The rear hose fixes to this bracket, by pressing through a splined hole.  I couldn't find any mention of how to achieve this anywhere, so after several failed attempts with g-clamps and mole-grips, I used an R-clip as a spacer and then wound the hose-end through the hole with its own nut.
15. Here's the hose jammed in the bracket hole...
16. ...it's held in place with this spring-clip...
17. ...which I tapped into place with a hammer and a drift.
18. Now...like an idiot, I'd second-guessed myself as to whether the hoses would have male or female ends - the originals were female, so I'd already cut the ends off all the solid pipes and replaced them with male ends.  The new hoses, however, came with male ends, so I had to cut the bl**dy ends off again and replace them, only this time it didn't go well.  I'd bought a cheap flaring tool from Halfords (I knew I was onto a winner the first time I used it and broke one of the wing-nuts you tighten it up with...) and every now and then I get an acceptable flare out of it - this time, after three attempts (having to trim the pipe back each time!), the flaring tool not only mangled the pipe end, but sheared itself off inside the pipe - I now intend to bury it in a hole, b*st*rd, b*st*rd thing... :(

Ho hum...on the plus side, I've taken a load of brackets and "bits" to Highland Galvanisers, so they should be nice and shiny when I get them back...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on April 22, 2017, 09:18:54 PM
You are having lots of fun with that.

When I replaced the floor on my Ninety many moons ago, I opted to replace the 'cr4p trap' top hat section runners with some 19mm x 19mm 'U' section channel (self cleaning idea!!) initially glued to the floor and then made secure with many pop rivets fitted from the top.
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 23, 2017, 09:08:34 AM
Hi Sandy,

  daft question, but presumably you attached the u-channels with their open end facing downwards - did you attach them to the cross-members somehow?

Thanks :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on April 23, 2017, 09:45:02 AM
yes, the channels (from B&Q I think) were fitted with the open end downwards.  I contemplated 'boxing' the parts where they met the cross members, but decided it was too much of a faff besides which the original top hat sections had rotted away at that point with no apparent overall loss of strength.

I reckoned that having the load bearing down on the two clean, dry, corrosion free vertical parts of the channel was better than the load bearing on the flat, crud infested top hat section.  10 years later it is still holding up despite many loads of brick, slabs, gearboxes etc, etc bouncing around in the back.   
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 23, 2017, 05:23:37 PM
Ah - cheers for that.

I wondered what the effect of not riveting the channels to the cross-supports would be but, like you say, the rivets have obviously rotted away on mine years ago...

All the best :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on April 23, 2017, 08:14:36 PM
Quote from: mudTerrain on April 23, 2017, 05:23:37 PM
......I wondered what the effect of not riveting the channels to the cross-supports would be but, like you say, the rivets have obviously rotted away on mine years ago...
....

I reckon the channels are simply to reinforce the thin ally floor panel in the gaps between the cross members. The majority of the down force from the floor panel should be taken by the horizontal faces of the cross-supports. The recesses in the cross-supports are simply to make space for the channel sections.  I wasn't aware of any rivets/welds/fixings between the channel sections and the cross-supports on my Ninety. 
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on April 24, 2017, 07:13:21 PM
Dunno how this stacks up against your plans, budget etc, etc .....

https://www.metals4u.co.uk/aluminium/c1/channel/c14/19.05mmx19.05mmx3.2mm-(34x34x18)/p7506
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on May 21, 2017, 09:54:38 PM
Ach well...in the end, I went for new supports from YRM - it was the easiest solution:
(https://thumb.ibb.co/jmrBFv/DSCF4576.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jmrBFv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/g7qz2a/DSCF4581.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g7qz2a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bZuWFv/DSCF4578.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bZuWFv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gpODTF/DSCF4579.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gpODTF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bZDV8F/DSCF4580.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bZDV8F)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/eLHOTF/DSCF4593.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eLHOTF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kTe3TF/DSCF4594.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kTe3TF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dW7OTF/DSCF4582.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dW7OTF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kVBvav/DSCF4587.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kVBvav)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jxugFv/DSCF4588.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jxugFv)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/dqr08F/DSCF4589.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dqr08F)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kDuL8F/DSCF4590.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kDuL8F)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bGZFav/DSCF4592.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bGZFav)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ghhe2a/DSCF4595.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ghhe2a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jykXNa/DSCF4596.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jykXNa)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/ndLovv/DSCF4597.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ndLovv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/f88DTF/DSCF4598.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f88DTF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/exJDTF/DSCF4599.jpg) (https://ibb.co/exJDTF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mLaGha/DSCF4600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mLaGha)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hF4yvv/DSCF4601.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hF4yvv)

A fairly random set of jobs done lately...it's all feeling a bit slow going :(
1. Here's the new flexible clutch hose fitted...
2. ...and the new solid clutch-pipe - but, as you can see, it's the wrong part and doesn't line up with the bracket...b*gger.
3. By far the easiest and cheapest solution was to make new bracket out of some box-section that was knocking about...
4. ...here it is cut out...
5. ...here it is painted...

6. ...here it is fitted to the slave-cylinder...
7. ...and here's the flexible-hose joined to the solid pipe - job done.
8. Back to the tub, then - here are all the nice, newly-galvanised supports just resting on top of each other to check the fit.
9. The first job was to get the aluminium supports in place...
10. ...which meant tucking them under these angle-brackets at one end of the tub.

11. Largely ignoring H&S or common-sense, I then hung the tub from the (new!) chain-winch and the engine-hoist, went under it with my drill and rivetter...
12. ...and spent a deafening hour popping rivets into the supports...
13. ...each one looked like this - fascinating, eh?..I think I may be losing perspective on what makes an interesting photo...
14. I then sprayed the whole underside of the tub with gravigard (stone chip)...
15. ...and then did a similar trick with the hoists to get under the tub to rivet the cross-supports in place - the tub's practically ready to fit onto the chassis, now.

16. In other news...here's my final solution to getting the rear brake-hose to fit properly - I made it in two parts and joined it with a...er...joiner.
17. I've also bought a load of adhesive sound-proofing (fatmat) and stuck it to the bulkhead.
18. I've stripped and cleaned the handbrake.
19. But, most excitingly (honest!), I've fitted the bulkhead loom through the holes in the bulkhead...
20. ...ready to join to the various connections etc around the engine.

The next jobs are to finish plumbing in the brakes, fit all new brake-pads, fill and bleed the brake-system(!), fit the prop-shafts and then fit the rear tub!

I'll definitely have this finished by Christmas!

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on June 10, 2017, 05:28:39 PM
It's been slow going recently - quite a lot of finding obscure part numbers (or finding numbers for obscure parts, anyway) and ordering weird plastic clips and things...

(https://thumb.ibb.co/iCKOqv/DSCF4602.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iCKOqv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mqV7Ha/DSCF4603.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mqV7Ha)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kA05na/DSCF4605.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kA05na)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fh49DF/DSCF4604.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fh49DF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/iWPsYF/DSCF4606.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iWPsYF)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gE8Efv/DSCF4607.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gE8Efv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bGhkna/DSCF4608.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bGhkna)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nm6H0v/DSCF4609.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nm6H0v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bB9WSa/DSCF4610.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bB9WSa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/iSazDF/DSCF4611.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iSazDF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/c3xwtF/DSCF4612.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c3xwtF)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gwfufv/DSCF4613.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gwfufv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/k4Nh0v/DSCF4614.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k4Nh0v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jX6WtF/DSCF4615.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jX6WtF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eBGWtF/DSCF4616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eBGWtF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nnkD7a/DSCF4617.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nnkD7a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/naiSYF/DSCF4618.jpg) (https://ibb.co/naiSYF)
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1. Brake lines fitted to the master cylinder with weird plastic clips.
2. Wires coming out of the bulkhead on the O/S - not sure why I took this one...
3. Cable connectors near their bracket on the O/S transmission tunnel - the galvanising means they won't fit on the bracket any more, so a "solution" had to be devised (see the second to last picture below)
4. Three cable connectors clipped onto the clutch pedal bracket.
5. Wiring laid across the top of the gearbox, waiting for me to remember how it actually fitted - also, lots of weird plastic clips in brackets all over the gearbox casing.

6. Rear prop-shaft fitted.
7. Here was a conundrum - later Defenders, it turns out, have a swivel-joint grease filling plug, but no drain-plug.  As I'd accidentally partially drained one of my housings, I wanted to get rid of all the old grease on both sides and re-fill them with new grease.  The solution was this vacuum-pump, bought off Amazon for about 15.00 - it worked brilliantly!
8. New grease from Britpart - it'll probably turn to cheese or something inside a thousand miles :(
9. New front pads...
10. ...fitted with copper grease on the backs of them...
12. ...and held in place with new fixing pins.

13. I went "fitting things mad" and fitted the expansion tank.
14. The bracket inside my turbo heat-shield had broken in half, so I made a new one...
15. ...and rivetted it on - I really like rivetting, even if Chrome apparently thinks I can't spell it...
16. Heat-shield fitted.
17. I decided to attack the seatbox with a wire brush and quickly realised things were not good :(
18. A close-up of "not good"...there's no fixing this really, so I had to shell out for a replacement off eBay, which is currently in the back of a van somewhere between me and York...

19. When I removed the wipers from the old bulkhead, I had to cut through the drive-shafts, so new wiper "wheel-boxes" had to be bought and fitted...
20. ...like this - a pretty easy job.
21. However, a trial fit showed the wiper drive-shaft tube fouled a bracket in the centre of the bulkhead...
22. ...and the bolt holding the steering-shaft to the bulkhead.
23. A look back through my many, many photos revealed that my original bulkhead only had a half-height central bracket...
24. ...so I marked it up...

25. ...cut it off, and sprayed galv-spray all over the cut ends.
26. The wiper tube thing now fitted...
27. So I tightened up the mounting nuts on the outside of the bulkhead.
28. These were a bit of a find - I unfortunately had to cut through the three original rubber mounts that held the airbox to the bulkhead, only finding out later that they cost twenty five quid a piece :(  These are EGR valve mounts for a Disco, I think, and can be had off eBay for five pounds a pair...
29. ...they're practically identical to the original mounts, but I need to trim the threaded rods slightly - still, that's saved me about fifty quid!
30. Last job here is me fitting the new rear calipers - I tried to salvage the old ones, but they were more rust than caliper and new ones were only about 30.00 each.  In this picture, you can see that you have to use a UJ to get a torque-wrench on the upper caliper bolt, as the rear spring is in the way.  On the other side, my spring is slightly further twisted round and there's no way of getting the toque-wrench on it, so it was long spanner and best-guess that side :(

Since then, I persuaded my girlfriend what fun bleeding the brakes and clutch would be and, by the time she found out that I may have exaggerated the "fun" aspect, we'd done it.  Next job must surely be to check that everything's tight and fit the tub!

I'm optimistic of being finished inside the one-year mark!

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on July 02, 2017, 09:57:54 AM
Another milestone reached - check it out as my "chassis" becomes a "Land Rover"...well...sort of:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/dJXukF/DSCF4633.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dJXukF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jpwyCv/DSCF4634.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jpwyCv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eg4ksv/DSCF4635.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eg4ksv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/iQ5Qsv/DSCF4636.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iQ5Qsv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jz5GXv/DSCF4640.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jz5GXv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mvw9Ka/DSCF4642.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mvw9Ka)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/d2wWXv/DSCF4643.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d2wWXv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dAVQsv/DSCF4644.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dAVQsv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nzu75F/DSCF4641.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nzu75F)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kOgyCv/DSCF4646.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kOgyCv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cUv3ea/DSCF4645.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cUv3ea)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nPPDea/DSCF4666.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nPPDea)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/fu4qQF/DSCF4647.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fu4qQF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dY7MXv/DSCF4648.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dY7MXv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nsRgXv/DSCF4649.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nsRgXv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/d5oH5F/DSCF4651.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d5oH5F)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eMGFsv/DSCF4652.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eMGFsv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eLjeKa/DSCF4653.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eLjeKa)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/e4ggXv/DSCF4655.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e4ggXv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nrC5sv/DSCF4658.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nrC5sv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gpXYea/DSCF4656.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gpXYea)(https://thumb.ibb.co/h1rn5F/DSCF4657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h1rn5F)(https://thumb.ibb.co/edXMXv/DSCF4659.jpg) (https://ibb.co/edXMXv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/b3Dvsv/DSCF4660.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b3Dvsv)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hH4wza/DSCF4661.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hH4wza)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cCuksv/DSCF4662.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cCuksv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/f0jeKa/DSCF4663.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f0jeKa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/h6Mtea/DSCF4664.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h6Mtea)(https://thumb.ibb.co/iYrgXv/DSCF4665.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iYrgXv)

1. The three alternative part-number air-box mounts, all with their threaded studs cut down to size and fitted to the bulkhead...
2. ...and the airbox mounting plate fitted to them - the airbox itself sits well above the mounting studs, so they don't need shortening this side.
3. The wiper-motor fits to the bulkhead inside a metal strap - it was really loose, though and then I remembered about the rubber thing I'm holding here, which goes between the motor and the bulkhead...
4. ...which I then fitted - I like to maintain my pattern of fit --> swear --> take apart --> swear --> refit properly...
5. Annoyingly, the new bulkhead has "most" of the mounting holes drilled in it - the ones for the dashboard sub-frame (or plate-assembly-front according to landroverworkshop.com) weren't included.  Looking back at old photos, the mounting tabs had to be hard up against the upper bulkhead edges like this, so marking them and drilling them was relatively easy.
6. These are the plastic mounts that hold the lower dash fascia to the bulkhead - the square holes they fit into all had galvanising in them, so had to be filed square again - that was a fun job...

7. The lower dash fascia mostly screws to the bulkhead, but also has two bolts towards its middle, at the top.  These holes also weren't included , so I had to mark them up, drill them, treat the hole edges to some paint and then fit 2x m6 rivnuts - unfortunately, I broke my m6 mandrel on the first one, so this turned into a longer job than I was hoping :(
8. Here's the plate-assembly-front fitted (with self-tapping no.8 screws), the windscreen air-vents and all the various plastic mounts and rivnuts for the low dash fascia.  I've lifted all the cabling up to make it easier to get the lower fascia in place, too.
9. Fitting the lower fascia is a bit of a faff, getting all the holes to line up, but it went on easily enough (although I'd forgotten to fit the sponge seal around the heater air-inlet, which goes between the lower fascia and the bulkhead - how I laughed when I realised...)
10. After some time spent arranging wires, everything looks a bit tidier - I'm test-fitting the instrument binnacle shroud  here, too.
11. These are the plastic nuts that go into the larger square holes all over the place to secure the floor, the transmission tunnel and the transmission tunnel shroud...
12. ...they also secure the dashboard upper trim - this is actually called the "pad fascia crash-assembly" in the parts diagrams which seems optimistic in terms of the protection it'd offer.

13. Right - onto job number 2, which started with fitting these freshly galvanised seat-belt mounts to the front of the tub.
14. The camera missed much of the excitement that got us to this stage - the tub had to be hoisted up on end, flipped over and lowered down onto two tyres (or anything to keep the sides clear of the ground).  There was much excitement as the knackered old ropes I'd been using for months creaked and strained and I had to keep going under the suspended tub to adjust the tyres and ropes...  Here, my girlfriend (who'd been press-ganged into helping again) is replacing the ropes with better, non-snapping ones, ready to lift the tub back up into the air again.
15. Wahay!  Flying tub!
16. We had to hoist it up high enough to roll the chassis under it...
17. ...and then lower it down, making sure all the various rubber mounting-pads matched, no pipes got squashed and no wires got trapped - sorry this picture's sideways and sorry also that the tub and the chassis do a good job of framing my prodigious stomach...  ::)
18. Same as above, just from the other side.

19. So far, so good...
20. These are the various brackets the tub fits to and sits on at the front end - some of these brackets are for the side-lockers, though.
21. The two shiney things are the mid out-rigger mounting brackets (from YRM)...the tub fits with these on the inside.
22. At the back, the tub lowers down over an angle bracket that sits along the top of the rear cross-member.
23. With careful lowering, the tub fitted over both ends with no disasters...
24. ...except the holes in the tub at the rear didn't line up with the threaded holes in the bracket - the tub was sitting slightly too high.  Although I attempted to resolve this issue via the technical expedient of climbing in the back and jumping up and down, this didn't solve anything, so I'm going to loosen the bracket bolts and raise the bracket slightly to meet the tub holes, then tighten it all back down again.  Given that I had to replace all the tub-floor stringers and cross-supports, I'm not that surprised that it's apparently a bit out of true...

25. At the front, these two brackets lined up perfectly (they weren't tight to the outrigger, so there was some leeway to play with).  The diagonal brace fits onto one of the seat-belt mount bracket bolts - I'd already fitted nuts to these, so it was a bit of a faff to undo them and screw them into the captive nut on the bracket, but not too hard...
26. The same the other side.
27. There's the tub pretty much mounted...
28. ...and I was so pleased, I took a picture of it again.
29. From the back, it looks just like a Defender, now :)

The next jobs, then, are routing the cabling across the top of the gearbox (which I still haven't really figure out), fitting the inner-sills, then fitting the seat-box and plumbing in the relays, fuse-boxes and ECU - that was a massive pain in the RR to take apart, but I expect it'll be dead easy to put together again...no, really, I do...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on July 09, 2017, 10:30:37 PM
I've had the week off, so I've managed to get a few jobs done:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/hQNRNv/DSCF4667.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hQNRNv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fGqkFF/DSCF4676.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fGqkFF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bs6gpa/DSCF4678.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bs6gpa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hX132v/DSCF4680.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hX132v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/j2SzaF/DSCF4681.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j2SzaF)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hirWpa/DSCF4668.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hirWpa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dSeqhv/DSCF4679.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dSeqhv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mkhhvF/DSCF4683.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mkhhvF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bDFfhv/DSCF4687.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bDFfhv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cXBE9a/DSCF4689.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cXBE9a)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/kOnMpa/DSCF4688.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kOnMpa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mQfKaF/DSCF4690.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mQfKaF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nCp1pa/DSCF4691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nCp1pa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kVyu9a/DSCF4692.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kVyu9a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nHNMpa/DSCF4693.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nHNMpa)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/jD2Ahv/DSCF4694.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jD2Ahv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kT3cUa/DSCF4696.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kT3cUa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dTqfhv/DSCF4695.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dTqfhv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jTw9aF/DSCF4697.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jTw9aF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dwNkhv/DSCF4699.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dwNkhv)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/bBoQhv/DSCF4700.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bBoQhv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/f8SCUa/DSCF4698.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f8SCUa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fnAMNv/DSCF4701.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fnAMNv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dUtcUa/DSCF4671.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dUtcUa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/f9ej9a/DSCF4674.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f9ej9a)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/iEkD2v/DSCF4672.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iEkD2v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gxeqhv/DSCF4675.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gxeqhv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/frQz9a/DSCF4703.jpg) (https://ibb.co/frQz9a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/krGBNv/DSCF4704.jpg) (https://ibb.co/krGBNv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/j0oEaF/DSCF4705.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j0oEaF)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/cEQcvF/DSCF4706.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cEQcvF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gBgQFF/DSCF4677.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gBgQFF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eM7t2v/DSCF4669.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eM7t2v)
   
1. After a bit of pondering, I tidied all the wires across the gearbox like this - I've unfortunately routed the battery cables to the driver-side here, so had to un-cable-tie them later.
2. The original battery earth cable had an intermediate connection so it could go from the gearbox to the chassis to the battery, but I opted for a slightly different solution.
3. Next job before fitting the seat-box was to fit the front prop-shaft.
4. The front exhaust section had to be fitted - I'd left this, as I thought it would be an easy job and it would have got in the way when I was painting the engine/gearbox in-situ...
5. ...but it was a massive pain in the @rse, as you have to remove the gearbox cross-member and unbolt the anti-roll-bar from the chassis to get it in.  Twenty minutes to unbolt them, an hour and a half to get them back in again...

6. The new seatbox, cleaned up, sanded and painted with stonechip.
7. The new seatbox is from a Tdci and comes with these plastic protective under-trays, which are pretty cool.
8. The seatbox in position, ready for lowering into place.
9. I pulled the ECU cables up through the centre hole...
10. ...but the seatbox jammed on the seatbelt brackets...

11. ...which was because the new seatbox has two strengthening braces underneath it which aren't present in the old seatbox - presumably, the Tdci seatbelt brackets are different...
12. ...but, as the bracing is only attached with a couple of rivets, it came off easily.
13. I started bolting it in along the back edge, remembering to attach the under-seat panel retainer strips.
14. All the back bolts fitted except the very end ones.
15. A bolt each side holds the seatbox down against a chassis bracket.

16. There it is in place - note Land Rover Tool no.1 on the edge of the seatbox there...
17. At about this point, I discovered a problem - here's the old seatbox, which has two 59mm diameter holes for the cabling to the ECU and under-seat fuse-box...
18. ...but Land Rover have changed that with the Tdci, so I need to drill two really big holes...I should probably have checked this before I bolted the seatbox in, but there you go ::)
19. Next job was to fit the inner-sills, which was a bit of a faff - jacking the sill up into position before tightening the bolts helped...
20. ...the two front bolts fit into the bottom of the bulkhead - I'm using flanged anti-vibration nuts (http://www.a2a4.com/acatalog/HEX-FLANGE-NUTS.html), which are a great help.

21. The same trick at the back - first jack up the inner sill into position...
22. ...and the bolt through the seatbox, rear-tub and inner-sill.  I'm using thin adhesive foam between the steel and aluminium parts here, too, to try to avoid electrolytic corrosion.
23. Fitting the driver-side was exactly the same.
24. Other jobs done include fitting the heater...
25. ...which is best fitted by starting with the lower-bolts...

26. ...and then tightening the upper bolts - it didn't really fit brilliantly, but I think that's by design rather than me doing anything wrong.  I had to fit a new heater-seal and it seemed far too big, so I think this might have thrown the fit a bit...
27. Fitting the pipes is easy enough (although I needed one replacement and it was fifty quid!), but the wiring that comes out of the bulkhead has to double-back on itself to get to the wing and it's a tight fit behind the pipes.
28. I've also had great fun routing the cabling out of the rear of the chassis...
29. ...up to the O/S rear light...
30. ...and across the back of the fuel-tank to the N/S...

31. ...and up to the rear-light there, too.
32. Here's the fun of all the wiring behind the instruments - I'm still working on that...
33. ...and I thought I might test-fit the bumper just for fun, but it's a faff and lining up the mounting bolts is really awkward, so that's work in progress, too.

So, there you go - Land Rovers may all look similar, but it's the little differences that'll b*gger you up given half a chance :)

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on July 09, 2017, 10:57:06 PM
Good effort.  And you are still smiling  :o.
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on July 20, 2017, 08:49:42 AM
Aye...still smiling :P

I'm having a bit of a mad push for the end at the moment...but things are pushing back...

(https://thumb.ibb.co/gv6QaQ/DSCF4709.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gv6QaQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mXgrFQ/DSCF4710.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mXgrFQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dbo5aQ/DSCF4711.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dbo5aQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/b3WV9k/DSCF4712.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b3WV9k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eqpp25/DSCF4715.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eqpp25)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cVoMFQ/DSCF4716.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cVoMFQ)
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(https://thumb.ibb.co/feJrh5/DSCF4723.jpg) (https://ibb.co/feJrh5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/n2Wu25/DSCF4724.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n2Wu25)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kUrSN5/DSCF4729.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kUrSN5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kvmcN5/DSCF4730.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kvmcN5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ig7Z25/DSCF4731.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ig7Z25)(https://thumb.ibb.co/i2RoUk/DSCF4732.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i2RoUk)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/frKgh5/DSCF4734.jpg) (https://ibb.co/frKgh5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cAwGFQ/DSCF4728.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cAwGFQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jJJA9k/DSCF4739.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jJJA9k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dzDGh5/DSCF4740.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dzDGh5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/msqkaQ/DSCF4741.jpg) (https://ibb.co/msqkaQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cUup25/DSCF4742.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cUup25)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/j5tXN5/DSCF4743.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j5tXN5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/b43z25/DSCF4707.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b43z25)(https://thumb.ibb.co/co2sN5/DSCF4708.jpg) (https://ibb.co/co2sN5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mCw8vQ/DSCF4713.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mCw8vQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/evWQaQ/DSCF4714.jpg) (https://ibb.co/evWQaQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/k7Drh5/DSCF4737.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k7Drh5)

1. Last time, I'd discovered that there was only one hole for the ECU cabling in my new Tdci seatbox, whereas the old Td5 one had two and much merriment was had over that fact, I can tell you.  On top of that, the hole in the Tdci box is too big for the cable grommet, so some sort of "solution" had to be come up with and then it struck me that the old seatbox had the right size holes, so I could just cut them out and re-use them...
2. A "repair" section, ready to be fitted into place somehow...
3. ...I drilled the missing hole the right size...
4. ...and the plan was to fit the plate to the back of the seatbox, but I hadn't quite got the holes in the seatbox to match the ones in the plate and, I realised, the double-thickness of metal would be too thick for the cable grommet, so...
5. ...I just used the one hole - you can see the fixing bolt holes drilled here.
6. With a bit of "manipulation", the cabling fitted through, effectively, it's old hole again - job done :)

7. Here's what it looks like on the inside - some interesting tolerances etc, but only people inside the transmission tunnel will ever know and they tend to have other things to complain about.
8. The other cable fitted through its new hole.
9. Not sure what I'm trying to show here, but you can see the ECU "shelf" isn't in place, yet.
10. ECU in and wired up.
11. The underseat fusebox and some relays - I was considering fitting the relays upside-down so that the wiring was easier to get at, but it was a daft idea.
12. The fusebox has five or six connectors to its underside and they're all different sizes, so are easy to re-fit in the right places - not sure why I took a photo from this side again, though...

13. At this point, I've run the thin loom that goes from one side of the seatbox to the other across - it comes through a hole in the top, left corner here and carries the power to the fusebox as well as some relay wiring.
14. The fusebox in and bolted down along with the relays and a "voltage sensitive switch" which does God knows what.  I decided to fit my backup ECU earth wire again, even though it shouldn't need it, but it does no harm.
15. Onto a slightly less cerebral problem - this is the inside of the front of the driver-side wing - where there's no oily mess is where a bracket fits, which holds the radiator in place.  Unfortunately, two bolts had to be cut through when I took this apart, as they'd rust-welded themselves into the captive nuts behind this panel and this ultimately meant I couldn't put the radiator back in.
16. After I'd successfully broken every drill bit I owned in the 3-5mm range and resolved to just buy new wings, my girlfriend (who was much less angry than me at this point and, therefore, had a better functioning brain) pointed out that I could probably bend the wing-panel enough to get the plate out from behind it, which held the broken captive nuts - all I had to do was drill out all the rivets and spot-welds.
17. This is the plate from inside the wing - what a b*st*rd it is to get at, let me tell you!  If this whole exercise didn't prove the whole "every job is the start of ten other jobs" adage, I don't know what does!  As you may be able to tell, I've calmed down considerably since doing this  ::)
18. Here's the plate and you can see the problem - it's been designed from the outset to turn to rust and then be impossible to get at -thanks LR...

19. Now I knew what I was doing, I attacked the other wing rather more surgically and had the plate out in under five minutes - all those poor drill-bits gave their lives for nothing :(  Anyway, I was then able to grind the dead bolts off, tack-weld on new ones and the both plates are away at the galvanisers.
20. What other fun?  Oh yes - because the bodywork had all corroded away around the rear fixing bolts, I decided to strengthen it with some aluminium angle - as I have quite poor taste, I used chequer-plate :)
21. The outer-most holes needed more thought, as not only is the bodywork flat here (so I couldn't just extend the angle-piece), I'd also destroyed the fog-light and the reversing-light getting them off and intended to replace them with cool-looking NAS round replacements.  After some thought and marking-up...
22. ...I cut a piece of chequer-plate to fit and bolted it in place...
23. ...drilled a 40mm hole for the NAS light (40mm is too tight - 42mm would have been better)...
24. ...and proceeded to fit the fog-light on the wrong side ::)

25. With the N/S as a template, it was easy to do the O/S the same.  After this, I drilled a load of holes for rivets and a couple of bolts, clarted the back of the plates with sikaflex and fixed them in place - job done.
26. In other news, I had to make an exhaust hanger-bracket (the gearbox PTO is in the way of the standard one and I had to cut it off)...
27. I don't know why I took a picture of this - that's some sh*t welding right there...I'm not usually this bad  :-[
28. I also decided to change the drive-belt tensioner while I had the belt off...
29. ...which came off easily enough, but the replacement needed a thin-walled 14mm socket to fit which I didn't have, so that was a job that ended here.
30. This one photo gives an insight into a job which has taken days and such a quantity of innovative and furious swearing that I may have to scrub the walls of the shed down to get it all out.  I managed to pick up a set of vent fly-screens cheap off eBay - hooray...but I'd already fitted the dash etc and after an afternoon of trying to slide them in from the sides and getting one irretrievably jammed, I had to take the instruments, binnacle, air-vents and dash sub-frame back off again to get at it.  Then, these fly-screens are from a series or something and they have mounting-tabs that the Td5 bulkhead doesn't have holes for.  I didn't want to drill yet more holes in the bulkhead (particularly not around the vents, which enthusiastically rust out with no encouragement from cack-handed drilling), so I decided to stick them in with marine sealant (sikaflex), but this meant lots of complicated clamping to keep them in place while it went off, which was also a pain in the @rse...mutter, grumble, whinge...I asked my girlfriend the other day, "Do you know what really annoys me about Land Rovers?" and she rather astutely suggested, "Everything?" Hmm...

So the next jobs are: put the wings back together, put the dash back together and survey the lay of the land from the vantage-point of square-one again ::)

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on August 20, 2017, 10:31:23 PM
Hello,

 back again - I had to go on holiday for a fortnight and then I had to go back to work, so time in the shed has been hard to come by :(  I've passed the one year mark(!), the evenings are drawing in and it'll soon be Winter again...I can't believe the Summer is basically over already :(

Anyway, enough of me depressing anybody reading this - here's the current state of play:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/fKYkSQ/DSCF4754.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fKYkSQ)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bPH11k/DSCF4755.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bPH11k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cUs11k/DSCF4756.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cUs11k)(https://thumb.ibb.co/f06YE5/DSCF4757.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f06YE5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/bzN6Z5/DSCF4758.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bzN6Z5)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kMUTE5/DSCF4759.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kMUTE5)
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1. I was playing with the idea of stripping down and galvanising the rear-wheel carrier, but that would have been a mad idea, so I just sanded it and re-sprayed it.
2. Onto rebuilding the wings, then - I'd been having problems with the alarm which stemmed from voltage-drops in the wing looms - when I looked at the loom in each wing, it was no mystery why...both looms had been cut into with cr@ppy plastic joiners everywhere and the water had got into the wires and corroded them, so a great deal of cutting out bad sections and replacing them had to be done - this picture is where I was soldering a join in somewhere...
3. Here's the latest galvanised bits - from the top, they're the inner wings, transmission-tunnel flange, rear-door flange-plate, fuel-filter cover, all four mud-flap brackets, the disassembled bonnet slam-panel and supports and the wing/radiator mounting brackets.
4. The bulkhead is separate from the transmission-tunnel flange - it mounts to it using plastic captive nuts...
5. ...like this - not difficult to do, just awkward.
6. Back to the wings - they fit to the bulkhead at these four points...

7. ...I bought these improved mounting lug-nuts from YRM...
8. ...and they fit very easily.
9. The wings have diagonal slots to hang onto the bolts in these lug-nuts...or, at least, that's how i thought it would work...it turned out to be more awkward than that.
10. As you may remember, I'd stripped the wings down to get at the radiator mounting plates, which had corroded badly and had bolts irretrievably jammed in them - now I had to put the stupid things back inside the wings.
11. Putting the plates back in was a lot harder than getting them out!  I had to strip the wings even further and then replace all the spot-welds with rivets, which involved a lot of adjusting (hammer) and aligning (mole-grips...and hammer).
12. You may have noticed I was working outside in natural daylight, which was an unaccustomed change!  When some helicopter flew over, I took a picture of it, but had left the flash on, which it presumably didn't like as, about a minute later, it came back again and flew right over me again.

13. Wing(s) reconstructed.
14. All (mostly) galvanised bonnet slam-panel built up.
15. Ah, a problem.  Things were going too well, really, and then I noticed this; one of the inner wings had warped slightly during the galvanising process...
16. ...which meant I had to elongate one of the mounting holes to compensate, although how this was going to affect the final fit was a bit of a mystery at this stage.
17. The original mounting method was the square plastic "nuts" that LR use to fit the floors in place etc.  Two problems now meant that wasn't going to work anymore - firstly, the mounting holes were badly corroded and were no longer square, meaning the nuts could twist in them and, secondly, the warped inner wing required more rather more tension on the various bolts and screws to get it to fit and the plastic nuts just weren't up to the job, so I used metal J-nuts, which I now had hundreds of spare (why buy ten when you can buy 100 off ebay!)
18. This is where the alarm siren lives.

19. Right - I'm back in the shed here and about to hang the wing on the bulkhead using the engine-hoist, hence the rope.  The wings have these brackets that go between the inners and outers - they're different each side, as the passenger side one has to allow for the heater air-intake, so don't mix them up.
20. Here are the wing mounting slots...but see how only three are slots and one is a hole?  I had to take the top mounting-bolt out of each side of the bulkhead when I realised...
21. ...and I didn't realised until I got to this point ::)  Hanging the wings on the remaining bolts, however, proved impossible, so I just fitted the bolts one at a time, which was very awkward indeed :(
22. When lowering the wing into place, I had to make sure it went the right side of the various brackets and the suspension tower...
23. Getting the inner wing anywhere near the mounting points, however, proved a significant challenge, as they say...
24. By hanging the front of the wing from the engine-hoist and jacking up the back by the bulkhead...

25. ...I managed to get the bulkhead bolts to line up...
26. ...but a new problem arose - the mounting holes in the bulkhead for the wing inner upper mounting bolts were in the wrong place, so I had to mark up new holes...
27. ...drill new holes (the bigger one)...
28. ...and fit m8 rivnuts...
29. ...which was a pain, but not the worst job I've ever had to do.
30. The bottom of the wing is secured to the bulkhead with two diagonal ties - the old ones had disintegrated when I removed the old bulkhead, so I'd bought these flash new aluminium ones from YRM...

31. ...which mount like this.  You can see I've also had to reinforce the bottom of the wings with aluminium L-section, as they'd corroded quite badly.
32. There you go - that's the wings essentially on, just the front bolts and the inner-wing bolts to fit.  The wings have two bolts at the front which fix them to the chassis - now, alarm bells should have been ringing at this point, as the holes didn't line up; the front of the wings were too high (by about 5cm).  I thought this was just an effect of the warped inner-wings, so broke out the ratchet-straps and soon had the holes lined up!  You can sort of see in this picture, though, that the wing-sides are sort of bowed out...I thought they'd settle overnight, though - optimistic soul that I am...
33. Here's the other wing - also slightly bowed.
34. Can't remember what I was trying to show here, but these are the wing mounting slots against the bulkhead.
35. It's starting to look quite Land Rover-y, isn't it?
36. You can really see the bow in the wing here :(

37. I decided to ignore the bowed wings problem and fit the bonnet slam-panel, starting by bolting it in place at the bottom.  It's a tight old fit between the wings, though (probably because they were a bit warped out of shape at this point - see the solution below), so I used a piece of wood and a clamp to force them apart...
38. ...and raised the slam panel into place.
39.  I realised afterwards that a pair of radiator mounting plates are supposed to it between the slam-panel and the wings, but that can be done later.
40. Here's the EGR valve vacuum servo and the power-steering fluid reservoir fitted.  I've actually removed the EGR valve, but apparently the ECU throws a hissy fit if you also remove the servo, so it's easier just to keep it and plug the actuating pipes.
41. More wiring - the spot-lights need a switching feed from the high-beam and dip wires - the easiest place to break into the loom is here (rather than in the wing, where it had been done before and caused all sorts of problems).
42. A nice soldered and heat-shrink sealed connection - hopefully no corrosion getting in there!

43. I'd had a good hard think about the bowed wings and the only cause I could think of was that the bulkhead wasn't in straight.  Although this picture's sideways, you can see the dramatically bulging wing panel!
44. Yep, still bulging this side, too :(
45. The solution, then was to adjust the bulkhead.  First, I took any tension caused by the wings off the bulkhead with ratchet-straps, loosened all the bulkhead mounting bolts and all the inner-wing mounting bolts...
46. ...then released the first straps and pulled the bulkhead forwards with sturdier straps (there's something similar to this on the other side)...
47. ...The bulkhead mounting brackets have slotted holes to allow a fair degree of adjustment...
48. ...and taking the inner-sill sections as my datum (as it were), I adjusted the bulkhead until it was at ninety degrees to it.  I was quite pleased with the old trig method I'd used to get the bulkhead straight in the first place, but maybe I was a bit optimistic that I'd get it spot-on...oh well.

49. Now, do you remember back in history when I declared the length of the steering-shaft a mystery, as it was too short to reach between the steering-column and the steering-box?  Well, mystery solved - I had the foresight to loosen this mounting clamp before moving the bulkhead and, would you believe it, it slid back to exactly the right position...in retrospect, that should have told me something at the time...oh well ::)
50. Are you still with me?  Bit of a long one, this one, isn't it?  Here's the O/S wing now without a bow to it...
51. ...and the same on the N/S - hooray!
52. The inner wings were still nowhere near the mounting points, though, so before tightening up the mounting bolts that fixed them to the outer-wings, I worked my way from bolt to bolt (using a jack to persuade the inner-wing into place), fitting it to the chassis brackets.  Again, these are supposed to be screws going into captive plastic nuts, but there was far too much tension on all the mounting points, so I used m8 x 20mm bolts and flanged, ridged nuts for a more secure fit...
53. ...which you can see here.
54. With that finally done, it was time to do some more wiring - the wiring behind the dash had been liberally butchered at some point in the past (not by me!), so I decided to cut, splice and solder it as required to tidy it up.
55. These are the wires from the column-switches going into the dash.
56. I don't think I've mentioned this, but I'd also decided to tidy up the additional wiring to the spot-lights, roof-lights and flood-lights etc and had got hold of a 5-relay and fuse-box off ebay, which was now wired up and mounted under the passengers seat.  Halfords have started selling these neat 4-way connectors, so I used a couple to connect the switch and power wiring to the new relay/fuse-box.
57. Battery in and essential wires connected...
58. ...the odometer came to life (and the alarm, thankfully, didn't!)...
59 ...and, better still, turning the key brought the dash to life without any smoke or the engine warning light or anything particularly nasty.  The fuel-pump spun up and even the heater-fan kicked into life...it's alive!...well, sort of...

I'm pretty pleased at getting the electrics working, I can tell you!  I can't actually go for starting the engine, yet, though, as both the radiator and the intercooler disintegrated when I tried to clean them ::)  Once new ones have been found, bought and fitted though, it'll be engine starting time!

Exciting stuff!

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: aqms987 on August 21, 2017, 08:56:11 AM
 There should be a club award for "Tenacity in the face of Adversity". I am sure you would be the number one nominee!
 I had been worried when there had been no updates for a while.
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on August 21, 2017, 09:02:06 PM
Good effort. You have now passed me in the rebuild stakes  :(. (I started mine in Feb 2015!!) and have only just got to the rewire dashboard and accessories point.

Still got to reconnect the battery and do the 0% smoke test.  Therafter take to paint shop for full repaint and then start to reassemble the newly painted doors, bonnet, HT sides and windscreen.

I felt your pain with the front wings, having had my front wings stripped down, the inners cut, welded and galvanised and then reassembled with new outer wing panels and freshly galvanised bonnet landing panel.  I was not pleasantly surprised to discover that the combination of new parts and freshly galvanised old parts meant that absolutely nothing lined up with the chassis or bulkhead mounting points.  There was not much in it, but a couple of mm in every flippin' bolt hole took a fair bit of skill (ratchet straps and hammer) to get lined up in a semi square, balanced kind of way.

Keep up the good work.       
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 03, 2017, 09:39:34 PM
Thanks chaps :)  I'm still sort of enjoying it, too - all the "bolting things back together" is actually fairly straight forward...it's fitting things that were never meant to be fitted that's causing me problems:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/evNvTa/DSCF4749.jpg) (https://ibb.co/evNvTa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gd4QTa/DSCF4748.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gd4QTa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/c4eg1v/DSCF4750.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c4eg1v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kZz3EF/DSCF4752.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kZz3EF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cgxZMv/DSCF4753.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cgxZMv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/np8Koa/DSCF4819.jpg) (https://ibb.co/np8Koa)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/mghLTa/DSCF4820.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mghLTa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jjeBZF/DSCF4821.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jjeBZF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hVakuF/DSCF4822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hVakuF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/m0Ouoa/DSCF4823.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m0Ouoa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kdzvuF/DSCF4824.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kdzvuF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mz9H8a/DSCF4825.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mz9H8a)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/c1MEoa/DSCF4826.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c1MEoa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/edRm1v/DSCF4827.jpg) (https://ibb.co/edRm1v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cFF1ZF/DSCF4828.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cFF1ZF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/eTCtgv/DSCF4829.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eTCtgv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dr8oEF/DSCF4830.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dr8oEF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/naSb1v/DSCF4832.jpg) (https://ibb.co/naSb1v)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/e1Hb1v/DSCF4834.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e1Hb1v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fOcgZF/DSCF4835.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fOcgZF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ihMx8a/DSCF4836.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ihMx8a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dqJoEF/DSCF4839.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dqJoEF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cfTS8a/DSCF4840.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cfTS8a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hj1QuF/DSCF4841.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hj1QuF)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/bFTS8a/DSCF4842.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bFTS8a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fJq78a/DSCF4843.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fJq78a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gdfPoa/DSCF4844.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gdfPoa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kkp61v/DSCF4845.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kkp61v)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nvgEoa/DSCF4847.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nvgEoa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kdVw1v/DSCF4848.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kdVw1v)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/iFstgv/DSCF4849.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iFstgv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/e2wx8a/DSCF4850.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e2wx8a)(https://thumb.ibb.co/e8dYgv/DSCF4851.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e8dYgv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/h1owZF/DSCF4852.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h1owZF)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dCsJgv/DSCF4853.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dCsJgv)(https://thumb.ibb.co/md5RZF/DSCF4854.jpg) (https://ibb.co/md5RZF)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/eZz9oa/DSCF4859.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eZz9oa)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ih1YEF/DSCF4860.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ih1YEF)


Right - I've gone mental for pictures again and they cover half a dozen different jobs, so bear with me...

1. I think what I was trying to show here is one of the security bolts that hold the steering-lock to the steering-column.  Theses have a tapered section just under the head which shears once you torque them sufficiently, meaning you can't undo them again and, in theory, nobody else can just unbolt the steering lock and nick your Land Rover.  They're a bit of a faff to get a socket on, as there's very little clearance between the bolt heads and the steering lock bracket itself, but it's do-able.
2. Here's the switch-gear on the steering column.
3. Somebody in the past (not me!) had butchered the wiring here, but I whinged enough about that last time, so...
4. ...here's a picture of my not-so-subtle "NO SMOKING" ashtray replacement to look at, instead :)
5. I thought I did this ages ago, but this is the new chequer-plate with "special metals" primer on it, ready to be rollered green.
6. Here's the new radiator and intercooler - I got a good price from Inverness 4x4 and saved an absolute fortune on shipping...

7. The intercooler and radiator bolt together, but remember to keep the rubber mounting lugs from the old intercooler, or you can't fit it to the mounting brackets inside the wings - I forgot and had to go hunting through a bin-bag for mine ::)
8. I'd previously fitted the bonnet slam-panel, but hadn't fitted the radiator mounting brackets first, so had to take it out again - it's probably not possible to fit the radiator/intercooler with it in place, anyway.
9. The instructions in the Haynes manual are pretty straight forward when it comes to re-fitting the radiator/intercooler and it's a fairly easy job.  I had to force the wings apart with my clamp/wood ensemble again, but apart from that, everything went to plan.
10.  Here's the O/S bracket...
11. ...and the N/S bracket - they take a bit of hitting with a hammer and playing with to get them exactly right.
12. There's the radiator/intercooler and bonnet slam-panel in place - not sure why this picture is all dark and moody - perhaps I was feeling artistic or something when I took it...

13. As there were various bits hanging around in the way, I decided to fit them just to tidy them up - here's the washer-reservoir going in, under the wing.  This was a massive pain to fit, it turned out, mainly because the same heavy-weight electric-men who'd broken them original seats with their @rses had also bent the wings down with their size twelve feet.  The solution (well...a solution) was to use the chain-hoist to bend the wing up a bit, so I could get enough clearance...
14. ...to belt the reservoir under the wing with a hammer ::)
15. The reservoir then bolts through the wing.
16. When I fitted the radiator/intercooler, I also fitted all the pipes - what I'm trying to show here is that the jubilee clips have to go with the screws on the outside of the pipes (i.e. towards the outsides of the vehicle)...
17. ...because, otherwise, they don't fit against the radiator - guess how I found this out...
18. Here's a single picture that was the end-point of an entire afternoon of b*ggering about and swearing.  The air inlet pipework comes in through the O/S wing, goes across the back of the engine bay and up, onto the airbox.  The pipework has a bracket on it that should have fitted to the O/S bracket that fixes the bulkhead and the inner wing in place - this is something you should definitely, definitely fit before fitting the inner wing, as getting at it afterwards is nigh-on impossible - I managed it, but I needed help.

19. Another job done was fitting the O/S sill - I'd already fitted the N/S sill.  They bolt on with a single bolt at the rear, through the rear wing extension and a single bolt at the front, which also fixes the lower wing brace (the cool aluminium ones I got from YRM) to the bottom of the wing.  Then there are two brackets that fix the sills to the inner-sills - the trick is to make sure everything's lined up before you tighten anything...
20. ...that way, you get a tolerable fit...getting a good one is expecting a bit much from a Defender :P
21. Here's the start of an interesting and fairly easy job, it turned out.  I'd decided to "modernise" my Defender with an electric radiator fan - the viscous coupling on the old fan had failed, so that was my excuse.
22. Apparently, some fans are only 80W whereas this is a 220W one - I might have been taken in by marketing bumf, though :)
23. The new fan will get its power from this relay, under the passenger's seat...
24. ...along a cable under the passenger's floor (along with the spotlight cables and various switch wires)...

25. ...up the bulkhead and over the top of the heater...
26. ...along the inside of the N/S wing...
27. ...and behind the N/S headlight, into the engine bay.
28. To actually fit the fan, I came up with this plan - I hung it from a piece of wood, resting across the top of the wings...
29. ...by adjusting the cable-ties, I could get the centre of the new fan to line up with the drive-shaft where the viscous coupling fan would have mounted, plus I knew the fan was straight up and down.
30. Here's another view of the same thing - I must have been quite pleased with myself for thinking of this ::)

31. Most add-on electric fans fix to the radiator using a sort of cable-tie arrangement, but they're apparently prone to snapping when they get a bit old and brittle.  This fan comes with m4 threaded rods which go through the radiator and bolt either side, with little penny-washers either side to spread the load.  That seemed a bit hard on the radiator to me, as the whole weight of the fan would be essentially hanging from four small points, relying on one or two cooling-vanes to support it.  Although it means blocking the radiator a bit, I decided to spread the load with two lengths of aluminium angle - angle, because it won't bend (as much) - I backed them with thin foam to protect the radiator, too.
32. I padded all the fan mounting points with foam...
33. ...and then hung the fan from the piece of wood, as per my earlier, genius idea :)  The clearance between the back of the fan motor and the engine pulley is quite close to what you might refer to as "eff-all"...it gets better as the fan bolts tigher to the radiator, though.
34. Here's one of the mounting rods on the outside of the radiator, bolted through my over-kill mounting plate with the tiniest wing-nut I've ever used!
35. Here it is on the inside, starting to compress the mounting foam.
36. I tried easing the rods through the radiator vanes to fit them, but that didn't work, so a more forceful solutions was required - hence a bradawl jammed through my radiator!

37. The fan fitted pretty easily, so the last job of the day was to finally fit the seats - I decided to fit the passenger seat first.  I'd actually been faffing and b*ggering about over this for a good fortnight; I threw away my old seats years ago, as they were completely knackered - I replaced them with heated leather seats out of some sort of Saab, but they've never really fitted very well.  I put a WANTED ad up on the forum here for standard seats, but didn't get anywhere with that, so I decided to just fit the Saab seats again.  What you can see here is my solution, four new holes drilled in the seat box to take m10 A4-80 bolts, one of the original underseat braces modified to suit the new holes and a bolt coming up through the seatbelt mount bracket under the seatbox to act as a guide for the inside rear corner mounting hole of the seat.  This seems obvious now, but it took a lot of thinking about to get there...not sure why ::)
38.  Anyway, I discovered that one of the mounting holes was in the wrong place (I mean, how?!  I'd measured it three times, made a template, even test-fitted the seat and it was still in the f'ing wrong place) which meant that the brace was also in the wrong place, which was a pain, as I'd just drilled two holes and riveted it inside the seatbox - that'll be a pain in the @rse to change.  More annoying than that, though, was what this fairly obscure picture shows.  This is the underside of the seat and what you can see here is the seat runner hitting the strengthening bar across the front of the top of the seat box, above the transmission tunnel - the seat fails to clear it by about 3mm...  At this point, I couldn't even be bothered to swear any more, so I packed up and went home for tea...

To be honest, I never checked whether the seat would clear the seat box, so more fool me - I've moved the seats inboard by about 5cm to make use of the seatbelt mounting point, so it's my own fault for changing things without checking/measuring first.  Anyway, s*d the seats - you may have been wondering how I'm going to get the new radiator fan to switch on when needed - I have a pretty neat solution to that, so watch this space :)

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on September 21, 2017, 04:52:47 PM
Have you noticed that it's raining a lot, recently?

It's currently so wet that I found a worm climbing up my back door last night...presumably to escape the impending flood!

The barn where my 110 lives is half an inch deep in water; the fields behind it having flooded and over-flowed into the farm :(

...so, not much work going on in the barn at the moment - I've used my "spare" time to argue the toss with DVLA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xNnRBksvOU) about getting my 110 back on the road...

  The problem I've encountered is with my replacement chassis not having a VIN or a V5 - it may have had a VIN, but that's now under a layer of galvanising, so I can't read it.  I didn't think, at the time, that no V5 was a problem when I bought it, but without something to identify it and give it a year of manufacture, the process proscribed by DVLA is as follows:

  Apply for/Receive a new VIN - I seem to have circumvented the process for this somehow, as DVLA just sent me a new one anyway - I had to speak to the "Kitcars and Rebuilds" office at DVLA, though.
  Complete a V627/1 "built-up vehicle report" form (https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/built-up-vehicle-inspection-report)
  Complete an IVA application form (https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval-application-forms)
  Presumably, actually go to an IVA test
  Get given a Q-plate

  Now, you'd be amazed at the number of people who have said I should never have contacted DVLA and should either have just stamped the old VIN on the new chassis or kept quiet and MOT'd my 110 on the old plates with no VIN.  I can see how you'd probably get away with that, but my argument is that it only takes one idiot to rear-end me, for the police to inspect my vehicle and query the age/condition of the chassis and then who knows what...definitely void insurance...probably points...possibly police action for fraud...who knows?  Everybody says I'm paranoid...but then they would say that, wouldn't they :)

  Anyway...a Q plate doesn't really affect my insurance, other than it makes getting SDP with Commuting harder to find - out of interest, my best quote so far is 266.34 fully comp from Highway Insurance, on an agreed mileage of 5000 per year with no commuting...good job I've got my van :)  That's with no no-claims, too (as it stays on my van policy), so not a bad price, really.  Adding commuting to the policy (most insurers I've spoken to won't) pretty much triples that price ::)

  So, no VIN and no V5 does make things trickier (I would imagine the IVA is going to be no picnic), but not impossible...

  Maybe, one day, it'll stop raining and I'll be able to get back into the barn without needing a canoe :)

Cheerio :)


Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on October 06, 2017, 04:55:17 PM
Just a quick one...the shed dried out, I was able to get at the engine, so I filled the engine with coolant, filled the power steering reservoir, checked the oil and...

First Attempt --> Click Here (http://youtu.be/UWwWYrH-Gd4)
I was pretty surprised the battery had enough charge in it to turn it over for that long!  I decided to check the fuel-lines for leaks and for any oil under the engine, and then try again...

Second Attemp --> Click Here (http://youtu.be/OM2qQEWCuKU)
This time, some smoke started coming off the turbo - I couldn't see why, but there was an oil-leak from the oil-filter which was spraying onto it...with nothing obviously wrong, I tried again...

Third Attempt --> Click Here (http://youtu.be/unac6RGJAb4)
Bl**dy Hell, it started!  Not only that, it ran and sounded alright!  The video's a bit random, as my girlfriend was holding the camera while also clearing boxes and tools out from under the wheels, ready for me to try moving back and forth in the shed a bit...which also worked!  Afterwards, the oil-leak was a bit more obvious, as there was a puddle under the engine and, on inspection, oil dripping down the filter, but not too disastrous :)

Now I've just got to do the hundred and one small jobs of finishing everything else of, like fitting all the lights, the roof, the doors etc etc etc...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on October 21, 2017, 06:34:19 PM
I haven't done anything lately as exciting as starting the engine - it's all been small, bits-and-pieces jobs...oh, and painting:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/eGq81R/DSCF4861.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eGq81R)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mahcvm/DSCF4862.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mahcvm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ctAxvm/DSCF4863.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ctAxvm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gjQ0gR/DSCF4864.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gjQ0gR)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ccMLFm/DSCF4865.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccMLFm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fGx5gR/DSCF4866.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fGx5gR)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/n0My1R/DSCF4867.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n0My1R)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fMVQgR/DSCF4868.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fMVQgR)(https://thumb.ibb.co/iBUU86/DSCF4869.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iBUU86)(https://thumb.ibb.co/i7BgMR/DSCF4870.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i7BgMR)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jnSMMR/DSCF4871.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jnSMMR)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dg6sT6/DSCF4872.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dg6sT6)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/b42o1R/DSCF4873.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b42o1R)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dwrbo6/DSCF4874.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dwrbo6)(https://thumb.ibb.co/meMFgR/DSCF4875.jpg) (https://ibb.co/meMFgR)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dLEU86/DSCF4876.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dLEU86)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mtF2T6/DSCF4877.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mtF2T6)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fAChT6/DSCF4878.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fAChT6)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/c6AVFm/DSCF4879.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6AVFm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kYaEam/DSCF4880.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kYaEam)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fGmRo6/DSCF4881.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fGmRo6)


1. Here's how the handbrake cable fits to the handbrake lever - fascinating :)
2. After a lot of um'ing and ah'ing, I decided to stick with the Saab seats I had already - here they are fitted and, my God, what a pain in the @rse they were to get there...
3. Remember my cunning plan for the fan thermostat switch?  Well, here it is - this in-line housing is designed for a temperature sender - to fit a thermostat (which are all larger diameter than senders), I had to drill out the mounting hole, thread it and then fit a (Husqvarna 95'C m14) thermostat.  The wiring is switched earth, which means the thermostat closes at 95 degrees, grounds a relay under the passenger seat, which then powers the fan.
4. Here's the joy of wiring happening before your very eyes...
5. This is a pre-painting shot - I took the light-guards off next, but didn't take a photo of that.
6. Pre-painting N/S...

7. ...pre-painting O/S...
8. ...and pre-painting rear - the red is an aluminium primer.
9. And now, post-painting.  I couldn't get the same paint I'd used before to paint it green and the new paint is slightly more yellow...it'll go less shiny after a few weeks in the sun.
10. Nice...the blue thing is my steering-guard that I've yet to fit.
11. Mmm - lovely green - the green box on the floor is an ammo-box I bought at a roup and use as a toolbox/step - it has "1944" stamped into it, so it's probably a historic artefact :)
12. Quite pleased with the back - the new chequer plate looks pretty smart :)

13. Here's the paint I'm using - I went a bit mad and bought 5 litres - I think I'll use about half of that...  Allegedly this is same paint the MOD uses to make things greener than they already are...it has every warning and prognostication of doom on it you can imagine...apparently, as well as potentially burning the shed down it might give organ failure if I get it on me...that's proper paint, that is!
14. I set myself three jobs to finish this day - fit the front arches, fix the non-working reverse light and start stripping down the hard-top ready to fit a new roof...fitting the arches, however, took all day :(
15. The arches fit with these things - plastic rivets - about a quid fifty a piece and you need about thirty of them!  You could probably salvage your old ones, but I didn't realise that, thought they were single-fit only and knackered all my old ones getting them off...
16. It's possible to fit the arches single-handed, but it'd be a lot easier with somebody to hold it in place for you while you fitted the clips - I'd give this job a swearing-factor of about six when done on your own...
17. A while ago, I had a disagreement with a gate while reversing out a field - the gate won.  This left me with a problem in terms of getting the clip through both the arch and the wing here...
18. ...my solution was a bit brutal - I drilled two holes in the wing, screwed a loop of wire with eyelets soldered onto either end to the wing and used it to pull the wing out into position...

19. ...using this fairly professional looking rig structure...
20. ...whilst it worked, I now need to figure out how to fill the two holes...very very small grommets, maybe..?
21. Last job of this set is stripping down the hard-top, de-rusting it, replacing the leaking body-seals and fitting a new roof.  I went to Mull a couple or three weeks ago and scavenged a new roof (with alpine windows and a sun-roof - it's going to be like palace in my Defender when I'm done!) off a Defender that had rather terminally lost a foot in length one day.  The chap whose roof it was was very helpful and even put it onto the trailer for me - thanks Tom!

  Other jobs on the go are fitting of the lights, fitting the bumper (done) and fitting the windscreen plus new seals - I'll definitely be done before Christmas :)

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on November 12, 2017, 06:23:55 PM
Check it out - it looks more like a Land Rover than ever...

(https://thumb.ibb.co/d3UGTG/DSCF4882.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d3UGTG)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mDg8aw/DSCF4883.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mDg8aw)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cv8t8G/DSCF4884.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cv8t8G)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nknWvw/DSCF4885.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nknWvw)(https://thumb.ibb.co/g1tFNb/DSCF4886.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g1tFNb)
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(https://thumb.ibb.co/nbnmTG/DSCF4892.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nbnmTG)(https://thumb.ibb.co/igNyaw/DSCF4893.jpg) (https://ibb.co/igNyaw)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fKYAoG/DSCF4894.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fKYAoG)(https://thumb.ibb.co/feyzhb/DSCF4895.jpg) (https://ibb.co/feyzhb)(https://thumb.ibb.co/icaO8G/DSCF4896.jpg) (https://ibb.co/icaO8G)
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1. I spent a lot of evenings sanding and painting my new roof...
2. ...the hardtop sides...
3. ...and the windscreen frame - I'd had the windscreen removed, as the rubbed had perished badly.
4. Remember last time I was going to re-fit the lights?  Here's a stainless steel headlight fixing kit - very expensive, but probably worth it (the old fixings are shown for comparison).
5. Headlights, surrounds and grill fitted - I had to take the grill and N/S headlight out another four times after this for various reasons!

6. A random "paint" photo.
7. These are the various brackets etc required to fit the hardtop to the tub and the windscreen-frame to the bulkhead - as the originals had rusted away to nothing, I sprayed the new ones with cold-galv to preserve them.
8. Here's most of the brackets, gaskets and bolts needed to hold one windscreen-bracket in place...
9. ...and here's how they fit to the bulkhead - in fact, I've got the two plates in the wrong order here - the small plate goes behind the big one.
10. If you look carefully, you can see I've got the hardtop-side on!  This was a fairly easy job, as the sides are only held on with a bolt front and back, two bolts along the sides of the tub and two bolts through the rear-door frame.  You can sort of make out the windscreen-bracket fitted to the bulkhead here, too- this is the wrong way to do it, though. as the windscreen from has to be fitted first, due to the lip along it's bottom edge.

11. A better picture of the hardtop-sides in place - you can also see my girlfriend ducking down in the back, fitting the tub-side bolts.
12. I wanted to be sure that the hardtop-sides were held down properly before tightening all the bolts, hence the ratchet-strap, but I don't think this really made any difference.
13. This job, however, really was a pain in the @rse - the windscreen-frame fixes to the bulkhead via two bolts through the bulkhead itself into the aluminium bracket on the outside and one bolt through the windscreen-frame into the same bracket.  The neoprene-type gasket between the windscreen-frame and the bulkhead has to be fairly well compressed to achieve this, though, and getting it even slightly wrong stops the bolts going into the aluminium bracket.  The "solution" was to ratchet-strap down the windscreen-frame to the bulkhead, but this tended to bend the windscreen-frame over backwards, so another strap holding the windscreen-frame upright (tying it to the front of the engine-bay) was needed...
14. ...then the bolts could be fitted - I'd coated them with sikaflex to stop water coming through the bulkhead...
15. ...my girlfriend's face says it all - this "ten minute" job turned into about an hour of swearing (albeit restrained, as I had company...)

16. Luckily, when all the straps were removed, the windscreen didn't ping flat or anything, so that was a minor victory.
17. The last job of the day was to fit the roof - this was never going to be a quick, easy job, so I just planned to get it into place and bolt it on later.  The first stage in my plan was to hoist it into the air...
18. ...then lower it down onto the hardtop-sides...as plans go, not my most involved one.
19. There were a couple of seals to fit along the top of the windscreen and at the top-corners of the door-frames, but all the other seals seemed fine to me, so I left them.
20. So there you go - it looks quite Land Rover-y now :)

The next job is to bolt the roof to the hardtop sides and then work towards fitting the doors - I'm still pretty hopeful of being finished before the end of the year...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on November 12, 2017, 07:58:17 PM
Good work so far, you are leaps ahead of me in the painting stakes.  Mine is still an assortment of primer finished panels stacked up in the rear load bed  ::)

 
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on November 13, 2017, 07:23:48 PM
Ah, well, you're going to paint yours properly - I just spent a week in my shed with a 5 litre tin of MOD issue cover-all and a roller :)

I still have all the doors, flaps and the bonnet to paint yet, too...

Your 90's bodywork is looking very nice and sharp - even after this rebuild, mine's retained quite a "used" look to it :)

Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: Sandy M on November 13, 2017, 09:32:09 PM
It is surprising the difference a new set of wing panels make.  Look closely you can see the riveted patches on the rear tub and the centre bulkhead, not to mention the corrugated rear panels  :o 
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on January 14, 2018, 02:41:54 PM
Happy New Year :)

Again, I've been rather lazy updating this, but I haven't actually done a great deal - I caught the sort of cold people usually die from (honestly!) and took four weeks off to mope about feeling miserable...but enough of what I didn't do - here's what I did do...

(https://thumb.ibb.co/j9O0j6/DSCF4904.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j9O0j6)(https://thumb.ibb.co/c4EjBm/DSCF4905.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c4EjBm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kvmgrm/DSCF4906.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kvmgrm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/mb8cWm/DSCF4908.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mb8cWm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gZhFHR/DSCF4911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gZhFHR)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jH3Brm/DSCF4912.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jH3Brm)
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(https://thumb.ibb.co/jHqoMm/DSCF4915.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jHqoMm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gdYVZ6/DSCF4910.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gdYVZ6)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fZ4Xgm/DSCF4919.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fZ4Xgm)(https://thumb.ibb.co/byHnWm/DSCF4909.jpg) (https://ibb.co/byHnWm)

1. The last thing I'd done (before the great illness) was rest the roof on the sides - so the next job was to bolt it in place...
2. ...which turned out to be a pain in the @rse, as none of the holes in the old sides matched the holes in the new roof, so every single one had to be drilled out - that was a long old job.
3. Also, I had to make sure that the roof lined up all around, otherwise bits like this seal-flange ended up out of line.
4. I'd always intended to re-fit my roof lights and flood-lights, but instead of the badly fitting, rusty old light-bar I got from Craddocks many moons ago, I'd decided to mount them all on the roof-rack itself.  The first job was to get the power in place, so this is an IP-66 junction box, mounted up above the rear O/S window - power runs through the body-cappings from under the passenger seat to get to it.  I'd used an IP-66 box in the O/S wing to join all the main spot-light wires together and it had worked quite well.
5. Here's the roof-rack with lights fitted and wiring underway - I'm using weather-proof twin-core mains cable for everything and daisy-chaining the lights together.
6. This is the O/S flood-light and the neat Chinese mounting bracket I got a job-lot of off eBay- they work well and look nice (at the moment!)

7. Here's the back of the roof spot-lights - you can see the daisy-chain wiring going from light to light.
8.This is what it looks like inside each light - I made up a load of t-joints to plug the bulb in and join on the cable to the next light, but I never thought to take a picture of one of them.
9. When I originally fitted the roof-rack, it was a right old faff with much swearing to be done - with the roof-winch, it was surprisingly easy...
10. ...and there it is - job done...well, actually, none of the mounting clamps are in place yet, as I had to sand them and re-paint them and they're all drying somewhere.
11. In other jobs, I wanted to re-fit the top guard/air-guide over the radiator, but having changed the fan, the old fan housing wouldn't fit, so the top-guard had nothing to fix to.  I decided to make up a couple of brackets - you can see one here - it's the grey thing.
12. This gives a mounting hole for the guard to fix to...

13. ...I just haven't figured out what sort of fixing to use, yet - some sort of bayonet device I've yet to invent, probably...
14. A while ago, I bought a new snorkel (having broken my old one taking it off) - allegedly "as used by the MOD".  I think that's probably spherical and in the plural, as the fixings it came with literally went rusty overnight when I left them out on the wing, so I bought all new stainless ones...
15. ...which proved nigh-on impossible to fit, but I managed it in the end...sort of - this needs re-visiting, really :(
16. Next job is to fit all the doors - I've got new hinges all round, but they all need painting.  I'm a bit wary of doing that at the moment, as I seem to have developed some sort of reaction to the paint (I had a migraine for three days after painting this lot - three days of throwing up into a bucket...I very much wished I was dead after day one, to be honest).

So, still getting there, but now there a a hundred and one half-finished jobs (like the bonnet release cable, the hand-brake wiring, the reverse light not working etc) that I need to sit down, figure out and attack in some sort of organised fashion...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 18, 2018, 09:59:54 AM
What a lazy illigitimi I've been for keeping this up to date!  I had problems uploading images (again!) and every time I though "I must deal with that" I got side-tracked onto something else...

Anyway, a load of stuff has happened, but none of it particularly clever or technical - despite that, here's where I'm at (actually, this is part 1 of where I'm at - there's a part 2 pending...):

(https://thumb.ibb.co/eCi997/DSCF4942.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eCi997)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gG1U97/DSCF4943.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gG1U97)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kPUubn/DSCF4944.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kPUubn)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cTdnwn/DSCF4945.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cTdnwn)(https://thumb.ibb.co/dFT997/DSCF4947.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dFT997)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gz3y2S/DSCF4948.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gz3y2S)
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(https://thumb.ibb.co/mGFNU7/DSCF4958.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mGFNU7)(https://thumb.ibb.co/gPuhU7/DSCF4959.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gPuhU7)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hhdWNS/DSCF4960.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hhdWNS)(https://thumb.ibb.co/kBW7wn/DSCF4921.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kBW7wn)(https://thumb.ibb.co/ntNEbn/DSCF4922.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ntNEbn)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nwmkhS/DSCF4923.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nwmkhS)
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1. Because I thought it'd look cool, I fitted a ladder to the back - I climbed up onto the roof, but it wasn't as exciting s I thought it'd be...
2. O/S hinge fitted.
3. The mirrors fit through the hinges, so you have to fit them before you fit the doors...
4. ...I got some super quality Britpart mirrors, tightened the mounting screws in them and the threads stripped - top work, Britpart!
5. Here's the interior with the dynamat soundproofing fitted...
6. ...and the bonnet insulation material stuck to the cab roof - not sure how good it'll be, but I had a load of it left over from sound-proofing the bonnet.

7. This is the rear door dynamatted.
8. This is all the fun and games I had when I closed the bonnet and then the release cable snapped...
9. ...to get at the release, I had to take off one of the slam-panel supports.
10. Here's the N/S door fitted - I did this single-handed and what a pain in the *rse it was!  On the plus side, it fitted perfectly...
11. ...although I had to adjust the locking mechanism slightly - not helped by my doors being off a pre-defender 90 whilst the body is a much later Td5...
12. Hmm - the end of a ratchet strap - his can't be good...

13. ...and indeed it's not - the O/S door didn't fit even remotely...
14. ...it was miles out at the top.
15. From the inside, you can see it wa clipping the seal, which was preventing it from shutting.

I didn't take any pictures of how I resolved this one (and I've noticed that my pictures are slightly out of order here), but it involved drilling out the hinge-holes in the door, jacking up the corner of the door with it almost shut and tightening the hinge-bolts up before anything moved.  At the time, I thought the door not fitting was down to the dodgy shape of the door, which I'd had to weld a new bottom on many years hence and had ended up with a slightly out-of-shape door.  Now, though, I'm not so sure...

16. I had to replace all the read door hinges - this kit appears to be for a series...
17. ...but most of it fits my Defender.
18. If you haven't already got this, I highly recommend it - the Defender Water Ingress manual...

19. ...it recommends buying this stuff (dum dum gum)...
20. ...and fitting it anywhere there's a seam or a body-panel joint...
21. ...like here...
22. ...and here...
23. ...by squashing it into the join...
24. ...and then covering it with tape before jamming the seal over the top of it (see later).

25. You do the same thing at the front doors, too...
26. ...although, here, you can see that the upper and lower bodies haven't quite lined up - that was a job for the old spanner-and-hammer combo.
27. Here's the new seal fitted around the rear door aperture.
28. I'm not sure what's going on here, as it's too dark to see.
29. The rear seal was too long, so I cut it to fit.
30. Again, it's pretty dark, but I think this is just to prove that the rear door shuts.

31. From the inside, this is the rear door shut - this seems to be from before I tidied up the siring to the roof-lights and fitted dynamat to the door.  The only real problem with the door now is it's incredibly hard to open, but I think that'll sort itself out as the seal squashes a bit with use.
32. Now, remember when I thought the O/S door was the wrong shape?  Well, here's another mystery - the new seal was too long across the top.  I actually bought a second seal to see if it was just Britpart quality at play, but that seal was exactly the same.  Somehow, the O/S door aperture is about 2cm too short across the top - I'll be b*ggered if I can see how that's happened but, equally, I'll be b*ggered if I'm going to start adjusting the bulkhead/windscreen/steering column/roof to do anything about.  I just cut the seal and re-joined it with 2cm taken out - an engineering solution, I think you'll agree...
33. This was fitting the rear-wheel carrier...
34. ...which needs a rubber stop fitting to it to stop it closing too far and jamming the door shut.
35. I think this is probably to show the air-intake, but it's obviously out of sequence, as I've fitted the doors (I'm using "fitted" in its loosest possible sense, there).
36. This is to show the N/S seatbelt fitted - the hardest part was getting the belt to come out after it had retracted all the way...

So there you go - it's all going together with the sort of jet-fighter precision you might expect of a Defender...  The current challenge is getting a windscreen fitted and then...well...then I've got to try to figure out how to get it back on the road, which isn't looking quite as straight forward now as it did a few months ago...less said about that, the better, really...

Cheerio :)
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: aqms987 on April 18, 2018, 07:32:13 PM
 You had me worried, I thought the Beast from the East had got ya! Been so long since we had an up-date. Tenacity in the face of adversity is obviously your motto as well! Great to get another installment, don't make it so long till the great reveal/finish.
Title: Re: 110 body removal
Post by: mudTerrain on April 19, 2018, 08:36:43 AM
Ah yes, the Beast from the East - it blew such a gale when the snow came that it was actually snowing inside the barn!  The snow was coming in through gaps in the walls and this fine powder was settling on everything...then, only about a fortnight later, it was t-shirt weather!

Anyway, here's one of the many small jobs I've done lately that took forever to get done:

(https://thumb.ibb.co/gpx9Bn/DSCF5009.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gpx9Bn)(https://thumb.ibb.co/cGzNWn/DSCF5010.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cGzNWn)(https://thumb.ibb.co/nouBP7/DSCF5013.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nouBP7)(https://thumb.ibb.co/jk2y47/DSCF5012.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jk2y47)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/b4O5j7/DSCF5014.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b4O5j7)(https://thumb.ibb.co/khjHxS/DSCF5015.jpg) (https://ibb.co/khjHxS)(https://thumb.ibb.co/htXgP7/DSCF4969.jpg) (https://ibb.co/htXgP7)(https://thumb.ibb.co/hnfeBn/DSCF4970.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hnfeBn)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gk6fHS/DSCF4973.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gk6fHS)(https://thumb.ibb.co/fOZ0HS/DSCF5011.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fOZ0HS)(https://thumb.ibb.co/n8VJ47/DSCF4972.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n8VJ47)(https://thumb.ibb.co/k9uNWn/DSCF4971.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k9uNWn)


1. The side-lockers had been sitting around getting ever more rusty since I took them out and I'd been trying to decide whether to repair them or just replace them...
2. ...the tricky bit was the folded and curved lip around the edge of the front, which would be a right old pain to re-fabricate, so I just cut out all the rust and welded in new bottoms, backs and sides where necessary.
3. Then, I took a load of stuff to the galvanisers (including all these bits)...
4. ...and they came back shinier than I could possibly have imagined :)

5. Given where they live, I decided to give them a good coat of stone-chip...
6. ...before jamming them back in their holes and riveting them to the body...
7. ...doing an enormous amount of b*ggering about with brackets and re-drilling holes etc...
8. ...and finally getting them fitted.

9.  The doors have a sort of piano hinge along one edge which makes them fairly easy to line up and rivet back on.
10. Another job to do was to route the new aerial cable in through the roof - this was problematic, as the cable has a 20mm plug on the end of it and I didn't want to take it off, so I needed a 20mm hole despite the cable only being about 8mm - no grommet would manage that difference in size, so I fitted a cable-gland...
11. ...with a plate on the inside...
12. ...and the finished result doesn't look too bad - suitably industrial looking for a defender, really :)

I took it out in the sun on the weekend and drove around the farmyard to test the brakes, the power-steering and listen for any weird noises - all three were as appalling bad as I expected (but probably fairly good for a Defender) - I took some actual outside picture, but I've left them on my camera - watch this space...

Cheerio :)