Hello,
right, stop me if you're getting fed up with this, as it
is turning into a bit of a saga
I managed to track down a replacement for the 70A relay that possibly has something to do with the glow-plugs - I decided to replace it on the grounds that the wiring had corroded at the G connector and had melted back along the loom about 10cm, so I thought the heat might have cooked the relay too.
Anyway...it still wouldn't start with the new relay, so I took out the other two relays and tested them ("main" relay and who knows what - ABS apparently, but there's no ABS on my Defender) and they both work fine. I haven't tested the Voltage Sensitive Switch (AMR3325), as I don't know how to and I don't know what it does - some people say it's for the lights, others say it's a split-charge relay, but there's no split-charge system on my Defender...
So, I thought "what the hell" and decided to hold it on the starter until I'd flattened the battery but, b
gger me if it didn't cough into life after about twenty seconds...but with a new and interesting racket coming from the new 70A relay. Listening to it via a long screwdriver, it's switching on and off like mad, so why's it doing that?
My temperature gauge is still jammed full-scale to zero - I've cleaned the contacts at the temperature sender, but that didn't help (I didn't think it would). Just to see what difference it made, I disconnected the MAF sensor and the wires to the EGR vacuum relay - that made no difference, either...I also cleaned the electrical plug going to the FPR valve, but with similar lack of any obvious effect.
So...can anybody tell me what the three relays and the Voltage Sensitive Switch actually do under the drivers seat? If anybody can suggest why this 70A relay is presumably being thrashed to death by the ECU, that'd be dead helpful, too...at least I might be able to get the stupid thing to LR now and see if they can figure it out.
As always, many thanks for your patience and help,
Paul