SLROC Forum

Hi
 Ok my 110 is still non starting so gona pull the 90 out use that if possible.
Stopped useing it as it had a very random fault. At times it conked out kinda spluttered to a halt. Would not restart  for about maybe 20 mins then suddenly would kick back into life and drive perfectly until the next time. Sometimes days.
This fault started after a long hard drive right through the hilly reigons in the borders on a very hot day.
When running fine it never overheats,no leaks and is a lovely smooth engine with plenty grunt for what it is.
It cranks very well choke works fine but i know nothing about petrol engines.
Need a motor for the crimbo period aint been able to get out for any shopping etc bloody nightmare.
Anybody in newtongrange area can drop by have a peek if time id appriciate loads and pay in good quaialty tea,biscuits and a freindly warm welcome lol.

carb icing up

coil breaking down

If the coil was breaking down it would maybe explain the random breakdows followed by perfecting running for a while as its recovered somewhat?
Could it have been the coil that overheated that day was a good 8 hour drive in 28+ temps.
Id say if there was regular thing it seems to do the breakdown under pressure. 3 times it happend so far was gaining speed onto the motorway.
climbing out of penecuik and down the roslin glen.
Alot of folk say the parts today for these engines are evry poor quality and opt for the electronic ignition do you have any info what this involves.

I thought carb iceing befor but it runs better when its freezing or we talking diffrent form of ice here lol?

it could be either one  had a rangie once on a really hot day the coil broke down poured water on it and it worked with the carb icing some vehicles had a heated inlet manifold to overcome the problem some you had to have a spacer to overcome it

Hi mate if this was happening when the weather was hot you can rule out the carb icing and if you do have problems of the carbs icing up you can get a length of metal air duckting and run it from the top of the exhaust manafold to in front of the carb and this will prevent it from icing . With the coil if you have a multi meter you could test the resistance in the primery / secondery coils when it is not working and when it is , the reading will tell you if the coil is at fault .

cheers Iain

I would look at the coil first as suggested.

Best plan would be to get a whole load of ignition parts from either LR dealer, or online at Rimmers or LR series. Quality parts are a must.

Points, condenser, rotor arm, cap, leads, plugs (NGK are best, try a motor factor).

Check the fuel is fresh if she has been sat for a while, probably best to drain and refill with known good stuff.

Thanks guys.
Ill give rupert lang a phone tomorow see if he can supply the parts.
Cheers.

A friend of mine had the same problem off and on with his 2.5 petrol 110, he converted it to 200 deisel and when removing the engine found the fault, the engine loom connector had almost corroded thru at the coil wire and actualy snapped when he pulled the connector appart, the engine is now in my series.
Drew.

hi
if all coil leads etc are good
2.5 carbs were well known back in the day for this type of fault dirt inside the carb devels own job to clean out i was advised by a good land rover garage that a refurbed carb was the only option at the cost back then it was cheaper to fit a v8 rather than a carb which is what i did 
regards Billy

hi

This used to happen to my 2.5 webber

i found it to be dirt (very very small fibres) in the brass lift pipes from the bottom of the float chamber to the venturies.
the dirt floated about and randomly blocked the brass pipes (they have very small holes to sook the petrol up)

you can clean out the carb, i did the following with the carb still in the car, and with the top rubber air inlet manifold removed.
1) open the 3 screw plate at the bottom of the carb. the float chamber will empty out here (there is a rubber diaphram and a spring so be careful not to loose them) also make sure the manifolds are not hot. any dirt and floating stuff might run out with the petrol.
2) take out each brass screw pipe in turn (there are 4 of them and can be seen from the top, the two outer are short, the inner ones block easier and are about 5cm long), the pipes can be separated and the insides cleaned. Just blowing them does not always work, so i separated mine and found a small bit of fibre inside one of the longer tubes.
3) DONT use pipe cleaners... they will leave bits of fluff behind.

I took of the carb once for a proper clean and flushed all parts with water, then dried it well before reassembly. managed to get a gasket (the carb splits into 2) from george at gemm4x4 for about 16p.


once the carb was cleaned i never had the spluttering and dying problem again.


cheers

Great advice there appriciated.
Well latly she has behaved lol no problems at all which i think is a good sign. I found a full rebuild kit for the carb for ?13.99 so ill buy that remove the carb and get it all cleaned up good and proper. Will fit a new coil,leads,cap and rotar arm the condensor and points were just fitted befor i abandonded it.
Forgot just how nice these engines are makes my 19j sound and peform like a boat in comparison real effortless smooth power.
Cheers

Hi guys hope ur all well. Been a while. Sorry to pull up an old thread but IM
 loosing sanity with this truck. Original problem sorted she has ran fine for  a good while till recently. Bit more familiar with the 32/34 dmtl carb. So the problem is will start fine on choke but wont idle without a little choke or she just conks out. Here is what i have done. Stripped-down carb bare cleaned everything and rebuilt setting floats at 7.5mm and all new gaskets etc. Checked intake and outlet manifolds for leaks. New coil, plugs, leads, distributor cap, points and condensor and rotor arm. New fuel filter and flushed fuel tank. Timing is spot on. Carb setting as base factory settings but should atleast run at these if not a bit slow till i get the idle. Both solanoids working. Any ideas folks ?. I need a weber wizard. Thank you. Scott.