SLROC Forum
General Category => TECHNICAL CHAT => Topic started by: Fishdoctor on March 18, 2011, 12:54:41 PM
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Has anybody ever tried to galvanise its original chassis? I'm restoring my 110 and the chassis is in really good nick. As I will be stripping it down any way it looks like a good idea to galvanise it, but i don't have a clue how much that will cost? Does anybody have an idea how much it will cost and where to do it. Same story for the bulkhead but that should be far less expensive.
cheers
Matt
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These are the nearest guys to me:
Scottish Galvinisers
Maclellan St
Glasgow G41 1RR
0141 427 3041
Cost I don't know, I've not yet made a trip. :-\
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I got a quote from a firm in Glasgow, think it will be the same guys as listed above for a SWB series. From memory it was about ?400 which included getting it dipped I think.
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Thanks
I will give them a call
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See what you are quoted,
but i would seriously consider paying the ?900 or so extra & getting a nice new one,
especially when going to the effort & expense of the new fastners, fitments,loom, bushes etc..
www.richardschassis.co.uk
If the chassis you have is that good, (you only know how good when you see inside the chassis)
do the same preperation you will need before transporting your chassis for galvanising,
emptying of the internal rust & sand blast the outside.
If you do this work on the original chassis & then give it some protection,
you may possibly get good money selling it,
to offset the price of the new chassis.
Or save on the galvanising,
do the preperation, just Waxoyl it internally
& get a quality external coating on the exterior & rebuild using this.
george
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I got a quote from a national firm with a plant around montrose in jan this year as i was bidding on a very old unused series chassis, i didnt win but i found out the following.
The chassis has to be cleaned of all paint, surface rust is no problem as its sorted during the pre galvy dip, i was offered 3 levels of galvy protection 25 yrs, 35 yrs or 45 yrs.
They charge by weight and for the 88 on the 25 year option i was quoted no more than ?140 and it would take a couple of days
you would have to get it to them tho.
contact details as follows. (bob was very easy to talk to and very helpfull)
Bob Walsh
Tayside Galvanisers
01307 460222
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www.forfargalvanisers.co.uk
01307 460222
george
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On "a 4x4 is born" Mark Evans got his chassis galvanised at a cost of ?600, that was a modifyed 88" I think.
As for your own chassis, when a hole in mine was being patched it let me see the amount of crud inside it, about half an inch of damp stell munching crud.
I think I would pay a few quid more personally, you may even get something back for your old one on E bay, some do go on there, just set the right reserve.
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I'm going to have to agree with George and others here, given the cost difference I'd go for a new galv chassis rather than risk all that work and then find that actually the inside of the chassis was a disaster...
Any problems with taking a re-chassis'd ( is that a word ?) vehicle home Matt ? I know there are age restrictions on imports ?
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Got my original 90 chassis done by Scottish galvinisers. They do know what their doing and give the exact advice you need to hear. They wont do work on any old chassis a process of which im not sure exactly means they can tell the diffrence between a rotten pile of turd and a sound chassis. Brand new chassis also have rust to a certain extent internally as they sit around in warehouses for months if not years. Most the cheap galvi chassis on ebay have had this process done and if they say otherwise their plain and simply lying. If its sound go for it m8 ull save a fortune and they pickup and deliver.
I paid ?270 inc pickup and delivery and shotblasting and pre dipping then galvinising. Remember galvinising penetrates inside the chassis walls the reason they have to drill the chassis to allow it to flow correctly. Only diffrence once done your chassis comes back weighing even more as all that lovely molten galvi metal has been added to your chassis. We talking alot of heat aswell here but you will not be dissapointed and if your cahssis no good they will call you and send it back refusing to do the job. They know alot more than any of us after all its their trade.
You wana come see my chassis no worrys ive seen the highend ones and if i can do it this way why the hell pay way over a grand?.
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Hi
I have not had personal experience of having a 2nd hand bulkhead galvanised but reading the various "comics" ie magazines, there is considerable concern over the bulkheads distorting due to the heat involved in the process. So approach that with caution1
Regards
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Ive got an 88 chassis sitting in my workshop,waiting to be blasted then im taking it up to forfar,ive drilled a good few extra holes in it too, im just waiting till ive got spare cash
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Ive got an 88 chassis sitting in my workshop,waiting to be blasted then im taking it up to forfar,ive drilled a good few extra holes in it too, im just waiting till ive got spare cash
Let me know how you get on with that. Could be tempted to do the same!
How do you stop too much galve going in the bit for the steering relay? Is it not already a tight fit without adding more metal to it?
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you would clean it out with a drill the right size as the bolts after it has been diped :)
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you would clean it out with a drill the right size as the bolts after it has been diped :)
[/quote
Yes but what about the big feck off hole in the front crossmember? It's tapered as well so even with a mahoosive drill bit it no worky ???
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Hello
Thank you very much for all the advice. Just to comment on george. It is good to get a new chassis and an old one can be rusted from the inside. However as I might be modifing it over the years keeping it as original as possible is key here. I do think about may be exporting it to the netherlands at some point. All cars over 25 years are considered classics there and you won't pay road tax and have cheaper insurance. Having the original chassis is a big plus. The second reason I will keep the old one is money. I'm a Phd student at Stirling and for some reason they never pay you the money you should earn. If the cost are around 400 or less it means I can spend 800 on other stuff like new doors. Also would like to re engine it with a 4.2 from a RR LSE but still looking for a donor car (MOT failure). Lots of plans and only money holding me back ;-) Scott: thanks for the advice. I like the idea of getting good advice. I was working on the LR this weeknd and did find a small hole in my cross member so will need to replace that. I had a good bash with a big hammer on the rest of the chassis and did not find any more spost but will be good to get this checked be fore they galvanise it. Good thing about replacing it will be that I can see teh inside of the chassis. Luckely I live on a farm with big sheds so space to get it all done. Plus my landlord and grand sun both have series so they like the project. I will ask about the bulkhead as well then to see if they think it will twist duin the dip. Would be a shame as it is so hard to find them in good nik.
Matt
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You could make up a jig to keep the bulkhead from warping.....
could you rent me a corner of a barn for my 2a?
Drew.
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The only company I know that have sorted the problem of galvanising bulkheads is Ashtree. I think they use a lower temperature process.
http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/Technical.html
Ross
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you would clean it out with a drill the right size as the bolts after it has been diped :)
[/quote
Yes but what about the big feck off hole in the front crossmember? It's tapered as well so even with a mahoosive drill bit it no worky ???
Maybe one of these flappy sanding wheels that go in the drill
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that would work or a file of some sort
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Cool ok. Was a bit unsure cos I didn't really know how thick the galv would be. cheers
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Has anybody ever tried to galvanise its original chassis? I'm restoring my 110 and the chassis is in really good nick. As I will be stripping it down any way it looks like a good idea to galvanise it, but i don't have a clue how much that will cost? Does anybody have an idea how much it will cost and where to do it. Same story for the bulkhead but that should be far less expensive.
cheers
Matt
Hi Matt,
I took capping to clydeside galvanisers to get treated but they where honest and said the metal may distort. I know the chasis is a lot thicker. It is calculated by weight of metal, and amount of galv used. Sorry can't remember the price. Worth giving them a call tho. Hope this helps.
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There is a thread on Landyzone about ashcrofts galvinised bulkheads. Its the only company i know that done them but now i wont bother in future. Some real bad feedback concerning the quality of the finished product. I know they use a bulkhead brace/vice to bend the bulkheads back into shape after the process but its all second hand bulkheads they use and at the prices they charge i would expect perfect quality and finish.
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Just to follow up on the story,
Just got my bulkhead and chassis back from Scottish galvanisers All looking great. It was 430 in total which includes transport, shotblasting and galvanising of both parts.
Will try to post picture as well
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Pics would be good as I would like to see the finnish on the bulkhead.
Drew.
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(http://)(http://)
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For some reason it does not let me attach pictures and the add image doesn't really work either
Can send you thm by email or you can come and have a look
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Where are you located.
Drew.
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I use photobucket to store pics for the forum then just copy and insert the img code in your post - should work ?
Cheers,
G.
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Fishdoctor,
re the Netherlands & keeping the original chassis.
For the Tax exempt & over 25 yo, do you not also needs to keep the Original Cubic Capacity for the engine, also the same block/engine numbers?
Many customers from Scandanavian countries have their engines rebuilt for more Power/torque/reliability at RPI Engineering for this reason, many also getting LPG converted..
This way they get the Max or just more BHP possibly but staying with 3.5/3.9 's
www.v8engines.com
Possibly thats not the requirement for the Netherlands.
www.roverland.info/html/holland_the_most_expensive_pla.html
www.expatica.com/nl/leisure/travel_tourism/a-guide-to-car-use-in-the-netherlands-8855_9070.html
george
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Hello
I'm in buchlyvie which is between Stirling and Glasgow. Send you a pm with my phone number. I'm not sure if you need to keep the orignal block in there. As far as the DVLA goes you can change a few things on the without it loosing its identity so i quess it is not a problem With the money going quick at the moment I might keep it with the original engine. Something else that might be a problem is that teh original chassis number might be hiding a bit behind the zink at the moment. Must say i haven't checked it. I seem to remember that you can take an x ray off it to make it visable again. Will try that when I'm over in the Netherlands. I'm sure that is how the police look at stole cars aswell.
I def. put it on LPG as the 17 MPG is a bit of an issue for long trips but not so much to go to a diesel. Just love the sound of the V8
matt
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I cant see any reason the company that galvanised the chassis should not give you a Headed letter stating that they galvanised the chassis at such & such a date.
They should really check for Chassis Numbers or ones that are removed before accepting a chassis.
Thats good enough for the DVLA in the UK.
That and a photo record & reciepts do it for them.
They will then say you can attach a new plate with the original chassis number.
(or how ever they feel at the time, they dont bother, best get a need plate tho i would think)
They sometimes ask for an visit of the Vehicle to be looked at, but without a formal VIC.
With that done in the UK, i would hope that keeps the Netherlands people happy.
george