SLROC Forum

Ok I have a new Defender Utility Wagon and I fancy a Sankey wide trailer to use for camping trips, kids bikes, rubbish tip runs and 101 other jobs from her in doors! lol

One like this http://www.anchorsupplies.com/trailers.htm

My plan is to buy one get it shot blasted and painted the same colour as my Silver Defender 

Q1 can I fit boost alloys to a wide Sankey trailer to match the cars wheels?

Q2 can these wide Sankeys hitch be remounted (and how easy is it) at the bottom for standard tow bar hight?

Q3 http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/jc3585_3_tonne_multi_jaw_nato_hitch_and_50mm_ball.php do these work ok for towing a Sankey and other normal trailers?

Dont think the boosts will fit unless you fit spacers due to the hub centre sticking out about 3 inches,as for the hitch I toyed with various ideas settled for 2 separate plates on my slider hitch nato on one,ball on the other I run with both on nato at the top the remove when towing an ordinary trailer,simple pull 2 pins saves modifying your trailer.i've fitted black modulars on mine no hassle.hope this helps,
Stewart

I use a wide sankey behind my 90 and also need to tow stuff with an ordinary 50mm ball hitch - so I've gone for the two sliders option. Works well. NATO hitch on one, mounted at the top is probably less than an inch lower than if it was bolted to the crossmember direct, so the trailer ride height is pretty good.  Its then easy enough to swap over sliders and use the one with the 50mm ball for the ifor williams etc.
I'll get some photos tomorrow.

DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT THAT DREADFUL HITCH .
First off its some nasty chinese import. More importantly it does not revolve. The ring on a wide track Sankey is fixed, unlike the earlier ones which rotated. At least one half of the set up must rotate - with a wide track Sankey the hitch therefore MUST be able to rotate or nasty things can happen when the trailer tries to twirl the Landrover.... Get a pukka NATO hitch - "Dantheman" is selling one for £45 on here at the moment

I'd also be interested in an alloy solution for the wheels. My thought was to butcher the wierd extra bit on the hub centre cap. First job is probably just to take it off and offer up an alloy. I have Disco Freestyles on the 90 - if I get a chance over the next few days I'll try an experiment !

As mentioned by gene you could butcher the hub centre you could always cut the extra bit with the six holes off then weld a nut on its place to allow wheel bearing adjustment

 Hi
 My solution to the trailer problem was to take a standard Sankey tlr, remove the body, mod the chassis slightly & graft on the rear body from a hi-cap pick up.  Looks the part & has plenty of load space. You can also fit the canopy rails & canopy if you so desire. It makes the trailer match the the L/R & paint it to match.

 

Hi
 My solution to the trailer problem was to take a standard Sankey tlr, remove the body, mod the chassis slightly & graft on the rear body from a hi-cap pick up. 

Nice idea - any pics ?

Has any one fitted a Sankey body to a old but smallCaravan chassis? Then it would tow with a 50mm ball and might be easier to fit boost alloys?

The alloys won't fit for 2 reasons:

1) The studs are the smaller diameter, so the alloy nuts won't fit, and
2) The studs are not marked for taking alloy rims

... and, as "diesel jock" points out, there isn't a lot of space between the bug & the trailer wheel-arch - and the large inner off-set of the allow will probably foul the bodywork.
(I suppose you could always sling a different axle under the springs, but that leads to a whole other world of pain vis-a-vis brakes)

Has any one fitted a Sankey body to a old but smallCaravan chassis? Then it would tow with a 50mm ball and might be easier to fit boost alloys?

...Ah, but then you've got a trailer thats got almost no ground clearance and that will not be anything like as robust....memories of a caravan based trailer that bent in the middle when I filled it with gravel. I also doubt it would take alloys without changing the axle units - most caravans run on tiny little carsized wheels. You've got a 110 - stick with a trailer designed and built to be towed behnd a Landrover - a Sankey or an Ifor Williams. 

Here's my set-up. Dixon Bate adjustable hitch, with two slider plates, one for the NATO Hitch and another with a 50mm ball. Easy peasy to change over, no complex engineering and pretty well bomb-proof. 

The studs are the smaller diameter, so the alloy nuts won't fit...

Not usually prone to doubting my learned colleague - but having just checked, thats NOT the case. The studs do fit. - It would be amaxing if MoD sent a vehicle-trailer combo out with different sized wheelnuts - Read on another forum that it has been done, the only adverse comment was that the alloys were a tight fit on the hub centre. Not sure if spacers were involved as the article was a tad confusing. If it stops raining I'll whip a wheel off and offer up the alloy spare.

Gene.

Not wanting to p!$$ on your bonfire gene but think sankey studs are 5/8 unf and alloy nuts are M16 fine just a wee heads up incase you knacker the threads.
Cheers
Stewart

Not wanting to p!$$ on your bonfire gene but think sankey studs are 5/8 unf and alloy nuts are M16 fine just a wee heads up incase you knacker the threads.
Cheers
Stewart

The mystery deepens - the alloy nuts do fit. I've taken the wheel off the Sankey to get a better look at the geography. That hub centre is roughly 110mm wide and from the brake disc to the outer edge of the hub, less the weird cap bit, is 25mm. I can't get a decnt shot at offering it up without either butchering the cap or - first option I think, taking it off for a look-see. Not tonight Josephine, Its miserable out in that yard !

Gene

I see yours is a widetrack with discs mines is a 1ton rapier mines being older would explain the imperial studs. And the hub cap on the rapier screws in against the bearing for adjustment,keep us posted gene.
Cheers
Stewart

  So by the sounds of it a wide track disc brake sankey's the way to go for me. I might just fit a NATO Jaw to look cool and if I ever need to tow a regular trailer just unbolt and rebolt tow bars.

So far this has just been an idea at the back of my mind but now I've started I'm keen to see if it'll work. I'll take the hub centre cap off completely for a trial fit of the spare one evening this week.....and if that works I'll be looking for some spare "Freestyle" alloys :-)