SLROC Forum

I am about to embark on replacing the discs and pads all round on my '95 Defender 300 Tdi.  There's a first time for everything, I am perfectly happy and have replaced similar on other 4x4's and cars.

Anything specific I should look out for?

I've read the Haynes book a few times and think I have everything sorted;

I have 2 pairs of discs, 2 pairs of pads, new hub gaskets, new hub nuts, new hub lock washers - I still need to pick up some diff oil as the book says to drain the rear diff prior to removing the half-shafts.

I would appreciate any assistance of potential issues that may bite me.

Cheers in advance

Graham

Graham . No issues, very straightforward . You don't need to drain the diffs either. You probably will get some diff oil leaking out the hubs but just stick a tub under it to catch the spill. Unless of course the axles are due a oil change then you could change the oil while you were at it . Make sure when you undo the brake calliper bolts that you have some rope or better still a zip tie to secure the brake line and calliper to the springs . You wouldn't want to split the copper brake pipe !

Wire brush and WD40 the brake pipe unions on the calipers a few days ahead, you'll not regret it! Several goes with the wd40 is also wise. Once the union turns a bit work it backwards and forwards to make sure it doesn't catch the pipe and mangle it.

Copper slip on the back of the pads stops squealing, don't get any on the pad surface.

Remember to get a can of brake cleaner to degrease the discs once on the car before fitting the pads (whatever you do don't get oils and grease on the pads, they will make the brakes ineffective).

Thread lock on the caliper bolts is a good idea, you can get handy tubes like a pritt stick if like me you use it occasionally.

Thread lock on the caliper bolts is a good idea,

No it isn't !! Its an utter mare to get the damn things off again afterwards, particularly if you dont have access to a professional garages worth of air tools and wierd shaped sockets.  If I could find the clown who glued my caliper bolts on last time I'd personally shoot him on the spot ! After several hours of belting nine bells out of a tommy bar/socket arrangement, what little heat I could achieve with a blow lamp etc, I had to admit defeat before I reduced the bolt head to rubble, reassemble everything and take it to a garage, Visa in hand. Vehicle before that the garage had to drill the bolt out....

Other than that - Its a dead easy job. :-)

Gene.

Have a look here,

http://www.youtube.com/user/PhilSheredan/search?query=brake

There are tons of videos, he does sometimes mutilate things but a video is worth a thousand words. Look for the brake and hub ones

Quote from: rangerovering on January 28, 2012, 08:44:49 PM

Thread lock on the caliper bolts is a good idea,

No it isn't !! Its an utter mare to get the damn things off again afterwards, particularly if you dont have access to a professional garages worth of air tools and wierd shaped sockets.  If I could find the clown who glued my caliper bolts on last time I'd personally shoot him on the spot ! After several hours of belting nine bells out of a tommy bar/socket arrangement, what little heat I could achieve with a blow lamp etc, I had to admit defeat before I reduced the bolt head to rubble, reassemble everything and take it to a garage, Visa in hand. Vehicle before that the garage had to drill the bolt out....

Other than that - Its a dead easy job. :-)

Gene.

Fair enough never had a problem with mine!

Thanks for the advice Guys.

The day went badly.

Jacked up and removed the wheel, couldn't get a socket to fit the caliper mounting bolt - a quick google tells me its a 12 point 13mm socket, my socket set (which i bought 20 years ago) has 6 sided sockets.  A quick trip into town sourced a 13mm socket of the correct type.

Caliper removed, centre nut and associated gubbins removed all OK.

When tried to remove the disc from the hub assembly I was stuck for a socket again  - 14mm this time, a quick call to the wife to procure a new one (she was in town anyway), a call back from the wife to say the local, hardware shop was clean out of 14mm sockets but they did have a set of 12 point sockets for £18 - OK buy them and I'll get the job done.

The wife appears 20 minutes later stating she had left her purse at home and will need to return to town to buy the sockets - in the meantime I had looked to the caliper to back off the pistons - all 4 seized pretty good - one of them had the remains of a seal which flaked off when prodded.

As we speak the LR is sitting upon a jack awaiting me to buy some new calipers (the new socket seems superfluous at this point)

A quick order to Paddocks should source a couple of front calipers to see the job done properly.

The backs could be another story altogether.

Cheers

Graham

Ooops. At least you've got the tools for next time....

G.

Graham

I personally would have the equipment to replace brake lines handy if you are doing this job. I did it on my 90 last year mainly cuase the calipers were seizing up. At the same time I replaced the disc and pads. I found that where tubing had been replaced for copper it got damaged when I released the fixing. And any thing that was still steel was getting towards requiring replacement anyway. So if your going to the effort of bleeding the brakes you would be as well making sure the tubing is in good condition. I would also reccommend that you replace you brake fluid but to be honest once you have bleed all four corners most of it will be replaced anyway. A hub spanner is also a good idea makes life easy. Another thing i found was one of the bearing had been washed out so I had to replace the seals on the axle again an easy job. I was lucky as I had a spare seal. Its also worth cleaning out the bearing grease and replacing it might give you bearing some more life.

Good luck and if you are stuck I will come assist.

Cheers

Rod

Forget the locktight just ring the bolts up tight, it`s easy-peesie good luck.

Thanks for the tips guys.

Weekend weather isn't looking too clever, but I'll have a go anyway.

I'll report back any progress.

Hi have a brake pipe flaring tool if you bust a pipe mate. Let me know if you need it.

Hi have a brake pipe flaring tool if you bust a pipe mate. Let me know if you need it.

I'll bear that in mind Jon, cheers

Just re-built my front n/s side calliper. What a doddle. Luckily the copper pipe was ok, But I did brake one before when working on the brakes.
Got my self a sealey bleeding tool, connect it to the tyre instead of getting the wife to pump the pedal. Much easier.

Enjoy

I have the eezi bleed one so no problems there.