SLROC Forum

Help,

Rough running 2.25 petrol, any pointers or order of things to check welcome. I've set the tappets, the contact gap in the distibuter and static timed it, although the static timing didn't seem to work so I loosened the distributer and twisted it until it kept running at idle so, is there a better way of doing this. Even better anyone in the Cupar area what to take a look/listen in return for a cup of tea 

Cheers
Luke

plugs, leads, dizzy cap.

Thanks Geoff, I put in new plugs and leads, but when I tested as per the green bible, holding the leads 6mm from the block I dont get a spark I need to hold them quite close to get something and #4 doesn't give anything much at all regardless of different leads, guess that means the cap or rotor ?

Cheers
Luke

Luke i have electronic distributor you can have makes a huge difference.

Sounds good (, but I thought for some reasons you had issues with it ?)

I'm not used to petrol engines everyones says that they are easy compared to diesel, but I'm not convinced. With a weak spark from the leads that would imply the coil too ?

Cheers
Luke

I have a spare coil. Your welcome to pop over and have a look at mine. It's not mot'd yet so I can't bring it to you.

hi luke firstly,get a compression tester,check all the cylinders(take each plug out one at a time and put the tester in place of the plug,take the centre lead off the coil,foot on the gas pedal and turn it over. 150 is the magic number or near on all four,)secondly check the leads are in the right firing order 1342 in the direction the rotor arm turns, then set the timing pointer to the first mark on the pulley(when the rotor arm points to no1 lead)open the points to the right gap and tighten up screw(no need if you have bills dissy,just whip out old one and put electronic one back in the same way,start it up and move it about til engine runs sweet)if this makes no difference,stick another carb on and try that. its been a while since ive static timed mine as its got an electronic sports dissy

Thanks Dan,

I went and got a compression tester this morning, and a quick check with the engine cold showed that #1 cylinder was a little lower than the others, a squirt of oil later and it was up to the same. I'll run it up to temperature later and retest with it warm but looks I'll need to take its head back off and investigate the rings first. Before I go adjusting anything else.
Cheers
Luke

I had an issue with mine recently where I thought the timing was out. Turned out the carb was knackered.

the list is endless,one of the best things i did was fit a brand new weber, after trying various zeniths old and new

Hopefully the carb will be okay its an SU rather then the normal weber or zeniths.

Cheers
Luke

I did the se as you dan. I bought a brand new weber too. Solved all my problems.

With the SU it is VITAL that the dashpot is filled with engine oil (Something like 20/50 or 15/40 grade). This is the biggest issue with them compared to a Stromberg in that they only have a single damping system and if it runs out of oil the needle rises far too quick and the engine dies/won't run properly. Check that first. Then try and get the mix as good as you can so that the timing can be more accurately set up. You can fine tune it (the mix) later.

After that be sure you have quality cap leads and rotor arm. I am not 100% on what stuff is decent for a Series, I believe the "Distributor Doctor" supplies high quilty caps and rotors.

Thanks all for the advice, bottom end doesn't look as healthy as I first thought, the low pressure on #1 looks like its do to a bent conrod. It won't push up as the rod is jamming in the bore so looks like its engine out and bottom end rebuild first.

Cheers
Luke

weigh it in luke and pickup another one,try putting up a wanted ad in the s2c forum, theres a lot of folk upgrading to tdi's and are getting shot of their petrols,cheers-dan