SLROC Forum

Hello,

  I've formed the mental resolve to have a proper go at my chassis this summer - my plan is to borrow a spot in a nearby farmers barn, lift the body off the chassis in one big piece and then survey what needs fixing/welding.

  Although mine is a 110 TD5, I'm hoping I can follow these instructions - can anybody who knows what they're doing have a quick look and see if they look right, please?

  I'm going to start stock-piling bits (bolts, fixings etc) now - what bits are worth getting in preparation?  I'm going to presume that every single bolt, screw and fixing will need angle-grinding off!

  Can anybody tell me what the best thing to do is when attacking the chassis with an angle-grinder?  I've had a go at the chassis under the foot-well floor-plates in the past and have found that the chassis tends to "delaminate" in flakey layers where the rust is worst - is it best just to wire-brush back the new surface and paint it or cut the new, thinner part of the chassis out and weld in a plate?

  Any advice etc would be very much appreciated - I know the best thing would be to get a new chassis and swap evrything across onto that, but I can't afford that, I don't think my chassis is actually that bad and mine has an HD chassis and, although I'm not sure what the actual difference is between that and a "standard" chassis, I don't want to change to a "standard" one...

  Anyway, enough of me going on...

Thanks

Hi any main rust holes should be cut out and re welded new plate in then rust treated . Then painted up last . I would try and get a power washer with a hose head to try and get inside the chassis washed out and then treated with rust restore treated and then attack any rust parts, if outriggers need done then best replace not patch. I'm not sure if the methods if talking if a 110 but sure someone will be along soon with hints and tips good luck post up pics and progress.

Hi

 PM me with contact details land line or Mob. no. I may be able to help @ reduced cost.
 Regards

Hi if you have flakey parts of your chassis be it paint or rust, I usually find attacking it with a needle gun or air chisel or both will take the worst off it . if the chassis can take a GOOD rattle with them then it should be sound on the inside . can't get your link to work so can't comment on your instructions . 

hope this helps shug... 

Hi,

  thanks for the encouragement/advice - I've fixed the link to the instructions...

what shug says......

i went at mine with the needlescaler  and a hammer in some places.  ....













After a new set of outriggers upfront , some welding on the front dumb iron , replacement of crush tubes in the front end , a new rear Xmember(after sticking the shop vac up the chassis legs), some seam sealer, i wire wheeled/spot blasted where i couldnt get grinder in the whole chassis back down to the bare metal as much as possible and several coats of Tetrosyl chassis black followed by some waxoyl underseal and internal coating of waxoyl i rebuilt it ....

lotta work but life in the old girl yet. 28 years young.

Shut I must admit you have done one hell of a job I would of been scared stiff if I saw my chassis as bad as that let alone attempt to repair it back to a terrific  job like you have done I take my hat off to you !!! I really like the pics also scary but nice and gives me some hope not all that I find in the future can't be fixed even if I can say hopefully in a small childlike voice Shhhuugg help I got a wee problem?.....

Wow!  The finished job there is as impressive as the "before" shots are terrifying!

How did you make sure that the chassis was straight while you were cutting it up?

Also, how did you de-rust the inside of the chassis?

What's "spot-blasting"?  Sounds great!

Thanks

lots and lots of measuring from different reference points one part at a time removed.







inside looked like that as far as i could see from both front and rear.

so i stuck my air line in from the front end in the "loom" entry points and let rip to the rear. then used the shop vac to suck out the junk , but there really wasnt much . then just wax oyled/Engine oil mix on the inside as best i could with the sprayer and a hose.


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200628385_200628385

a spot blaster - they are a bit shit but good when you cant physically get a wire wheel in.

That third picture down of the outrigger is a prime example of why welding a plate on top of a big rusty patch just does not work!

patching rarely works for any lenght of time. although the receipt i got from the previous owner showing when that patch was done was for 2002.

ill be honest im not under any illusion ill need a new chassis and bulkhead in the future , how ever at the time when i built the chassis as you know bert i didnt have an engine or anyclue what engine i was fitting so i was reluctant to order a chassis then hack it up to fit  what ever i got.

Hi kept on meaning to post up link to this site

http://www.frost.co.uk/search/?q=evapo+rust&utm_source=2015_04_10_Evapo-Rust&utm_campaign=2015_04_10_Evapo-Rust&utm_medium=email

They have a lot of products which may be of use , the items can be found sometimes in the eBay a bit cheaper but worth a look, I have use the rust restore pink liquid stuff they sell with good results on freshly bare metal protection and some areas which have rust before I painted or primed up stuff.
Anyways hope it of zoom use to someone.
Cheers
John

 Usefull as they may be, these potions do not add any strength to the chassis! I have seen too many chassis which just crumple on impact after patch-work repairs. I attended many serious RTC's (road traffic collisions) & saw first hand the effects of impact. When chassis's have required so many repairs the original integrity/strength has gone. The MOT Tester can only examine what he can see, our old friend Cam'o Flage can cover many sins without adding strength!

Usefull as they may be, these potions do not add any strength to the chassis! I have seen too many chassis which just crumple on impact after patch-work repairs. I attended many serious RTC's (road traffic collisions) & saw first hand the effects of impact. When chassis's have required so many repairs the original integrity/strength has gone. The MOT Tester can only examine what he can see, our old friend Cam'o Flage can cover many sins without adding strength!

I agree with above ^^^^ as I posted only meant a way to help protect but not hide or try too hide a patch work quilt chassis sorry if it came across that way. When I said I used it I meant on good frame or metal I have stripped which either had or prevent surface rust from happening and in no way is it or can restore a complete rust bucket back to original or near original metal in any way or any part of a fully rusted area of chassis back.

Thanks for your considered input on this, chaps - the worst I'm expecting to find with my chassis is some bad delamination on the top, where I can't get at it from underneath.  I know my driver-side front outrigger is a bit ropey...it's been patched in the past and will probably need welding again for the MOT next week(!), but I think everything else is fairly solid...hopefully!

I'm seriously considering forking out for an air compressor (something like this) so I can use tools like needle scalers and sand blasters - although I'm not that sure about quite how this one works...  Do you think it's a good idea or is sticking with an angle grider and a wire brush good enough?

Thanks